I have a '96 LT4 and the starter needs to be replaced. I plan to buy a refurbished one. Can anyone tell me (or point me to) step by step instructions for removing/replacing the starter? Is it even something that a fairly novice mechanic should undertake?

Thanks for any info.

 

Have you secured the car and located the starter?

 

It is something that you can replace. You need two things first. Factory Service Manual (fsm)(Helms manual) that can be purchased at
www.helminc.com A good set of wrenches, extensions, sockets etc.
(a good set of tools).

 

Starter R&R is very simple. Take off the NEGATIVE battery terminal FIRST.
If it's anything like my 93 Lt-1, it will be easy. Only a couple bolts.

 

Like everyone else has said, not hard at all. Two cautions: remove the negative cable from the battery first. second, make sure you get the starter wires back exactly like they come off. Also a good idea to clean up the connections with a wire brush.

 

Thanks for the great feedback everyone. Two questions: (1) I assume this has to be done from underneath, correct? (2) Is there any special tool needed to remove the bolts (e.g. swivel or extension for socket)?

 

You will need:
1.) To safely elevate the car. I jacked my car up and used ramps and jacks stands to secure the car. Safety First! Who the hell wants to get crushed! I could have used more room but I was able to get up under the car with so wiggling! I am 6'2" 255. It was tight!

2.) Simple hand tools. Metric. extension 8" comes in handy. Need one small one like a 6 mm if I recall correctly.

3.) Easy job! I did mine last friday night before leaving for the ALS race at road Atlanta. Easy job.

 

I agree it is a simple job, however on my 96 LT1 I found that the cat was in the way and had to remove the exhaust system which wasn't to bad of a job.
And as someone else suggested get a FSM Helms manual, it will pay for itself several times over.

 

My father & I had a hell of a time trying to remove the starter, but we eventually did it without removing any extra parts. I found that it helped to get the socket up behind the cat & onto the bolt head before attaching the extension & ratchet. The space is tight, so a screwdriver also helped to get it into place.

I'm not sure about new starters, but the refurbished unit I bought was missing the gasket seal which isn't available anymore according to a local Chevy dealer. I had already traded in the core, so I bought some gasket material & cut a new seal.

 

Thanks everyone for the fantastic advice!

 

MY bad! I have long tube headers with no cats!! My job was easier that with stock exhaust. My apologies!

 

I have a 93, Auto coupe. Nothing was i the way of removing the starter, did not have to touch the exhaust.

 

Two bolts and it comes off. Plus disconnecting the wires. Easy.

Car must be e-braked and in reverse gear. Jack up the passenger side of the car by jacking the thin rocker panel lip that sticks down. Position the jack on this lip right as it passes under the mirror and the whole passenger side of the car will come up. Look at your fuel lines before you lift to make sure the jack saddle is not pinching them or any bolts. Place concrete blocks under the tires AND jack stands under the two jack points that are actually recommended.

Safety note: The blocks help eliminate the chances that the stands topple over, which I have seen happen when they are side-loaded like this. Using a floor jack alone would probably result in a crushed head because those tend to release their pressure at unexpected times. Likewise for using blocks alone, since they tend to crack and shatter unexpectedly under load. Make sure the majority of the load is on the stands. With this level of redundancy, plus keeping the floor jack nearby in case of a mishap, there should be no chance of injury.

Go buy a 3/8 swivel/wobble extension if you don't have one. It's not the same as a universal joint, the tip of the extension is actually curved so that the socket you put on it has some freedom to wobble. You'll also need a decently long 3/8 extension to reach the bolts. Unplug the battery cables like everyone said, starting with the negative, and use a little socket set and a little ratchet to get the wires off the starter. It falls right out once the long bolts are out (and rips off the wires trying to bring them down with it if you didn't remove them first). To get the new one in, just bench press it up into place and slide the bolts back in.

The old starter will be filthy when you take it off. Dirt will fall off of the wiring harnesses and into your eyes if you're not wearing goggles. Be sure to clean up the wiring contacts real well before you put them on the new starter.