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As some of you recall I got my solid rear setup installed last February, Hey the wife got twins, I got my solid rear - sounds fair to me.
At least that was the rational I used on her.
Unfortunatly I have not gotten out but a few times with the car to get her really dialed in, but did some recent tweaking to the suspension and managed to get out this weekend with it.
The old girl is eating hard off the line. We showed up at 9am at Pburgh for a raceday, place was packed and they started announcing that we only were going to get one time shot before eliminations. So this should be fun trying to dial in a fairly new setup.
All day I was hammering the tree with .00X lights. And as some of you already know when your that close, your also that close to redlighting. I was trying to slow down my reaction time be pressing on the brake harder, but I went out in the third round with a -.004 light. I saw that I went Red and ran the car out to see what it would run. It went 10.19@132.
I knew on that launch the car hooked up hard and it was near the same experience as with the chevelle. All I could see was hood and sky! For the brief amount of time it lasts, it is a near almost perfect feeling. I knew that run had to be near my best ever.....came around and got my slip and it was a new best 60' time = 1.33!!! Just missed my best ET by .04. Now mind you the air was about 1750 during that last run so in the much cooler fall weather the car should be good for some 1.2 60' times and maybe some 9s runs.
I have to do some work to my brakes, new master cylinder is awaiting install so I can get up on the converter more, and this winter I might install a trans brake which I think would really make this car launch. But for now it is working nearly flawless.
Here are the videos.
http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...rrent=Run1.flv
http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...ent=Good60.flv
Also as some of you know I am putting together a solid rear bolt in setup that will be offered to all here on the forum. The setup consists of a moser 12bolt, 33spline axles, wishbone locator, 4 link rods and chromoly rod ends, gear of choice, rear adjustable shocks and coil overs. ect. The kit will come with EVERYTHING you need to bolt the setup into your car and be able to do so without chopping the car one bit. Only thing you will need to do is drill a few small holes underneath that will not effect the intergity or anything of the car one bit. The above videos show a car working near flawlessly and with 100% reliability. On the street the car feels and handles in my opinion more solidly and better than it felt with the IRS setup. Best of all you can put as much power to it as you want with ZERO worries of it breaking. And if someday you want to sell it, or put the car back to stock, then you just have to unbolt it, and put everything back to stock!!
I have a forum members car now and will be performing the setup on it here in the next month or so. And I am sure many of you will ne seeing it run at Etown in the season coming up.
I will be also coming to Etown hopefully for an upcoming event; either this weekend or the next. So look me up if you have any questions.
Let me know how you liked the videos. Nothing at all was changed on the car except the rear end. My previous best with the IRS was 1.37 and the car is definately quicker this year than last in both ET/MPH given the same weather.
Again give me your comments
Right now I have the price set at 4500-5000 for the setup. I have some final figures to crunch but it will be right in that range.
Again the setup will be COMPLETELY bolt in and not hurt the car one bit as far as cutting it up or anything else.
Here is the way you should be looking at it. Anyone that has a decent sized motor and races.
(1) your D44 will eventually fail, along with other components. That D44 is worth about 2k, and there is really nothing else to replace it other than another D44. (except my setup thus far.).
(2) you can get my setup, and sell the D44 for ~2k complete so you have not invested any more than what you would pay to otherwise replace your D44 when it fails.
(3) you can wait for your D44 to break, which they all do eventually - then you will have to pay the full 4500-5000 and realize that you should have just done that to start with.
That is the rational that I came up with when doing my setup. I chose option 2 above and quickly realized after the first time racing the car with the solid rear - just how stupid I was for not doing it sooner. The car feels, handles, performs 10x better, more reliably and is MUCH safer now than ever before. The sad thing is I had MANY days ruined and cut short with failures etc with the IRS; when all of that could have been avoided. Granted at the time there was no option like I am offering to you guys. I have put a BUNCH of thought and time into designing this setup for you fellas so you don't have to go through that I did.....and it might sound as if I am trying to push it on you, but I am just letting you know that the option is out there and I know those that choose to latch onto it will be very happy they have made the move.
As with all my stuff, I plan to back up what I say with the voices of those that use it; so stay tuned.

And the setup will work in everything from an 85-96
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Nice job killer.....looks like it's working nicely. Your rear stays down and keeps the weight on the rear wheels. We gotta change the geomatry on Chris's....it kicks the rear up and unloads the suspension sometimes. What's your IC? What size slicks are you running and do yo think they'd fit on Chris's car?
Nice job killer.....looks like it's working nicely. Your rear stays down and keeps the weight on the rear wheels. We gotta change the geomatry on Chris's....it kicks the rear up and unloads the suspension sometimes. What's your IC? What size slicks are you running and do yo think they'd fit on Chris's car?
yeah I will post over there and see what it stirs up....actually on my last launch I set it on "kill" and the slip was actually a 1.29 corrected using Mar's gravitational pull, divided by the earth's exterior crust thickness times the square root of the number of rim screws.
(sorry to the rest of you, its a long story dealing with a "tool" from another board that Ralph and I have to endure.)
Not sure exactly how Chris's car is setup, but it should be able to run the 30" tires that I am running. My rear sway bar is the closest thing to the tires.
With my setup you will have all the adjustments that one would have with a typical 4 link. I am going to be visiting a local shop this week that does laser cutting for a few other pieces, and I will most likely be contracting them for some of these brackets. Maybe you guys can just get a set of my front brackets I am making up for added adjustability???
The IC of my car is at 49" out and up 6". You want to have a little ~3* downward slop on the lower bars.....I bet Chris's are a steeper angle.
Have you ever taken his shocks off and moved the rear with everything else hooked up on it through the entire range of motion? Maybe his is binding up?? Mine moved super easily through the entire range, from touching the floor boards to about 1ft way from the floor, which is WAY lower than it is when its at ride height. Also my punkin NEVER touches the floor......you mentioned his does which sounds like you need to maybe change the ride height, but that will also drastically effect the IC and bars. Tough to say without being there to see what you can do...but without adjustments everywhere you are probably limited with what you can do.
I feel mine is far from maximized. I think leaving off a trans brake would REALLY help with the launches.....on that last run something in my mastercyliner popped right before staging ( I bought a new strange unit, as my original never impressed me so I figured I would get a new one, but had no time to install it). Anyways when I was coming to the line the master cylinder popped or something and the brakes now work better than ever before???
I almost did not make the pass, but I hit them a few time coming up to the line and they felt super good....so on that last run I came up about 400rpm higher than I normally do and that is probably why I red-lit by -.004
But also probably why my car really launched on that last one. I would like to see what it would do with a 4000rpm launch off a brake!
Zorro, thanks a million dude and you can bet its in there somewhere/somehow/somewhat unrecognizable
and yes it probably did contribute. Thanks again. RacerX, there is no per say cross member required....I have come up with a way of not needing it, again my method is being used in the videos shown and is stronger than any conventional crossmember I could come up with....and doesn't hinder the ground clearance 1 bit.
Emo-vet, without other information its impossible to determine a good cam??
Cylcerage, I can give you some of the photos....but I can't get to my putfile from here....so give me some time to post some of what you can expect to see.
The setup works AWESOME and just think, I have only had the car out basically 2 times and its already kickin the IRS's butt BAD. Give me a year of tweaking on it. My IRS started out at 1.5s and I got it down to 1.37! I see 1.2s as being VERY possible.
Ralph, I better be hearing from you sporto pretty soon for one of these setups, or your price will be 9k when you finally break your IRS.
Then you can show Chris how its done!




















