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A cam like mine might work out well for you, but you'd need to have some long tube headers on there, if you don't have them already! It's a big hydraulic cam, but if the tune is done right it runs very well. Give Trevor a call and see what he thinks...he's installed this cam in a couple 383's and can give you a better idea of how well it would work!
My pistons do have valve reliefs in them, but the cam doesn't have huge lift numbers, it's .55x/.56x intake/exhaust.
I'd bet you'd be fine with your current setup and be able to run this cam. Do you know what compression you're running?
EDIT: oh yeah, this cam does like to rev...so depending on how you like to drive it may or may not be the right one for you. Personally I really like the sound of 7000RPM...but it's not for everyone!
My pistons do have valve reliefs in them, but the cam doesn't have huge lift numbers, it's .55x/.56x intake/exhaust.
I'd bet you'd be fine with your current setup and be able to run this cam. Do you know what compression you're running?
EDIT: oh yeah, this cam does like to rev...so depending on how you like to drive it may or may not be the right one for you. Personally I really like the sound of 7000RPM...but it's not for everyone!
According to your avatar and info you already have an $11,000 stroker
Yep he does, I've seen it. However a lot of the DRM and Lingenfelter builds had smallish cams for emissions requirements and warranty service. His car also currently has stock exhaust manifolds so there is still quite a bit of power left on the table that can be unleashed pretty easily.
Do you still use the stock rockers and non-adjustable nuts? I've got LT4 rockers and nuts, no 10mm studs with a .540 lift cam and was wondering if it would be worth it to change the studs for non adjustable. The poly locks are a PITA. Sorry for the hijack.
Yep he does, I've seen it. However a lot of the DRM and Lingenfelter builds had smallish cams for emissions requirements and warranty service. His car also currently has stock exhaust manifolds so there is still quite a bit of power left on the table that can be unleashed pretty easily.
According to DRM's site the kit comes with SS Long Tubes.
And for a 383 with that setup, just get the CC306 and a good tune.
According to DRM's site the kit comes with SS Long Tubes.
And for a 383 with that setup, just get the CC306 and a good tune.
The longtubes where probably options at the time, in any case his DRM 383 still has the stock manifolds. And, personally, I think the CC306 is a bit old-tech cam, like the GM Hotcam. Does it work? Sure. Are there better options out there now? Yep.
Do you still use the stock rockers and non-adjustable nuts? I've got LT4 rockers and nuts, no 10mm studs with a .540 lift cam and was wondering if it would be worth it to change the studs for non adjustable. The poly locks are a PITA. Sorry for the hijack.
Me? No way!! I would NEVER run the stock 10mm studs and rockers up that high. Honestly I don't really like running the ARP 7/16th studs and crower stainless steel rockers I have in there now that high too much. This winter I'll be putting in a set of TD shaft rockers for the extra stability at high RPM.
Yep he does, I've seen it. However a lot of the DRM and Lingenfelter builds had smallish cams for emissions requirements and warranty service. His car also currently has stock exhaust manifolds so there is still quite a bit of power left on the table that can be unleashed pretty easily.
Actually, Rippie used shorty headers on this setup (equally worthless)
You are correct, Zix, that DRM and Lingenfelter used very mild cams in the mid 90s so their packages could pass emissions in most states.
This car has an extremely mild cam with tons of low end torque, but with the 4.11s I'd be glad to trade some low end for an additional 15 - 20 HP. I think even a moderate modern cam with duration in the .230s, coupled with decent headers, would wake this thing up.