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greetings from new orleans. i bought a 93 that has not been started in
about 2 years. i have replaced the oil and filter, drained the tank, added fresh fuel, changed the fuel filter, and replaced the battery.
when i try to start it up it spins but does not start. the dashboard blinks
where the fuel level should be. could this be a computer issue that is keeping fuel / fire from getting to the engine? thanks jay
Pull the error codes, that is the best place to start. Engines need spark and spark at the right time and fuel and air and in the correct ratio. While someone cranks, use your timing light to see if you have spark and spark at the right time. Next, put a fuel pressure gauge on the shrader valve on the end of the fuel rail and see what the fuel pressure is. When you shut the ignition off, the fuel pressure should hold up for a long time (1/2-1 hr). If it falls rapidly you may have leaky injectors that allow a too rich condition to start. Next, put a noid light (available at parts stores), or a low power 12v lamp like a 194 side marker lamp across an unplugged injector socket. While cranking, the light should pulse showing that the computer is pulsing the injectors.
It should have been dry, the injectors spray a fine mist of gasoline into the manifold which mixes with the inlet air and evaporates. Liquid gasoline should not be getting into the cylinders. Do the diagnosis and find out where your problem is!
ok how do i pull the error codes? this is my first electronic vette.
the last one was a 70 LS5 conv, 25 yrs ago. (yes i wish i still had it it)!
thanks j
that was my thought especially with the 2 year no start
try a very small shot of ether in the intake and see if she kicks a little, also replace the plugs, if you or someone else cranked it with the old fuel in the tank you could have very well fouled the plugs. i have seen it happen before, good luck
Okay, Had to ask. get a paper clip and under the dash around where your knees are, there is a plastic plug, called the ALDL. put the paper clip in the A and B terminal, the top left two, turn the ignition to on(do not start), and watch your check engine light flash. It will flash like this, one falsh then two quick flashes, thats a 12. Two quick flashes then pause and then 2 more quick flashes thats a 22 code.
Under the dash by your right knee is the ALDL connector. With the ignition in run (engine not running), take a paper clip or a wire with clip leads on both ends and connect the top right pin to the pin on its left. You will see the service engine light flash three times [flash, flash, flash] and it will do this three times followed by any error codes stored, just count the flashes [example, code 12--flash, flash flash] and then you will see the three flashes again and it will repeat until you disconnect the paper clip or turn off the ignition.
ok i will be working on it again this weekend and will use the "jumper"
technique to pull some codes, then we take proceed from there. Thanks.
..i did try the starting fluid into the throttle body with 00 results. that caused me to think that the computer may be withholding the spark.
it has sat for 2 yrs without a battery.
The quickest and cheapest way to repair any vehicle is to do diagnostic tests to determine where the trouble is. Changing this that and the other thing is very expensive and rarely beneficial.
you are right replacing parts on a hunch is expensive. however i figured that the oil & filter and the fuel & filter and the battery should be changed
after 2 + years of sitting. hopefully the codes will pin this down and i will be on the road with you guys soon. thanks j
Under the dash by your right knee is the ALDL connector. With the ignition in run (engine not running), take a paper clip or a wire with clip leads on both ends and connect the top right pin to the pin on its left. You will see the service engine light flash three times [flash, flash, flash] and it will do this three times followed by any error codes stored, just count the flashes [example, code 12--flash, flash flash] and then you will see the three flashes again and it will repeat until you disconnect the paper clip or turn off the ignition.
I have a 92 and I think it is very similar to the 93 in how to check the codes. I always connect A to G (opposite corners) with a paper clip then turn the key. On my 92 it will show you the number on the speedometer so you don't have to count flashes. Much easier. It runs through all three modules (1,4, and 9) automatically.
The terminals are:
top row F/blank/blank/C/B/A
bottom row G/blank/J/K/L/M
If I had to guess you are going to get a 1.H41 code indicating that the ECM is not communicating with the CCM at start up. When this happens the injectors are not activated and the engine will crank and crank with no start. ECMs are notorious for failing on the 92 and 93 models.
ok i tried the jumper technique. when i jumped a-g and turned on key
the speedometer lights up for 1 second then dims and stays dim.
when i jumped a-b and turned on key, a fan began to spin under the hood.
i know the battery is pretty low, should i try a-g with jumper cables connected?
ok i will put the battery onto the charger, by the way i noticed that the crank sensor plug was not connected, i must have knocked it off when i
replaced the serpentine belt. when i tried to plug it back in it doesnot fit very well, it seems like a piece is missing from the block piece. would this
cause the computer to shut down or keep it from starting? thanks j
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