View Poll Results: Cut the hood Or not?
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 128. You may not vote on this poll
Would you cut your hood for twins?
10-20-2007, 08:35 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Would you cut your hood for twins?
NO and not the kind I pay good money for at the local ballett.
I'm bored with my vette and wanna detune it for more civility. So it got me thinking : why not a more average Joe type setup with kit potential. But as many of you know, The only feasable way to provide twins that arnt supertiny (less than 300hp ea) is to go above the framerails. and likely cut into the hood a little.
The biggest internally gated BBgarrett's are the Gt3071R-wg and they breathe 47.5 lbs/min each. They can and will fit beside the valvecovers and easily will allow downpipes with cats.
Together they can make up to 1000fwhp, but will have lightening spool.
There are no less than 5 trims that bolt up to the gt28 turbine. the smallest of which lingenfelter uses on his TT500 package (gt2554)
But Im pretty sure the bigger trims would require eeh "Speed bubbles" on the hood to pull it off without going nuts on the accessory drives.
Then I thought,while were putting a scoop on it, why not a water/air intercooled plenum stealthram while we are at it?
So the induction path goes=
Stock airbox- MAF- 2 hose - turbo inlet - compressor outlet- stock Lt-1 TB-intercoolercore-plenum.
THis would be on each side. so 2 LT1 Tb's, 2 core's but common plenum above the tunnelram.
so lets do a little math
2) gt3071R-wg's with actuators $2500
1) set of 316L weld el headers $1200
1)set of downpipes $150
1) Converted STealthram with (2) 750hp garrett WIC cores and chargepipes $1200
2) Recirculating BOV's $100 (audi/bosch)
1) front heat exchanger and Meziere pump $300
1) 97 later vortec Dizzy $125
1) set of oil drains and feeds $100
1) BTM device (MSD or summit) $269 -summit brand
1)set of moto 65's $400
1) set of "carbon fiber speed bubbles or hoodscoop" $175
Minimum realistic price for a TT kit $6519
After going around the block with may a C4 the best way to go for the 94-96 is to use the MAF (albeit with the constants cut in half) and a BTM It's for sure the least amount of hassle and compromise.
93's and ealier are screwed and have to go standalone or piggyback.
I have emailed greddy a few times about their emainage -ultimate. Ive used these in many an import including the sr-20de. It happens to have the identical trigger wheel as our lt's inside it. If I could get greddy to make some small changes to the code then LT's could take advantage of their capabilities (which is alot!)
Or would it suit more people for much smaller low mount twins, for like up to 650hp? these would be able to fit below the framerails but might require a scavenge pump, and some new engine mounts. Lets expore that possibility:
2) Gt2860 w/actuators $1900
1) set of 316L headers $1200
1) set of downpipes $150
1) custom engine mounts $175
1) Set chargepipes $250
1) water/alky setup $300
1)BTM $269-summit brand
1) set of moto 65's $400
1) recirculating BOV $100
1)oil drains and feeds $100
Minimum realistic Budget kit cost $4844
On a 350" motor those turbos will wake up @1500rpm. It would truly be a idle to 6000 motor as soon after those little things would go into choke. But the insta-torque from 15psi at only 2K would feel like you had 700inches of bigblock.
Now don't get me wrong, this is purly speculative at this point.
But I definitly am building a new turbo setup for me so if I decide to step up to the plate for everyone what should I build folks,
What would suit the general C4 owner better? I'm so far removed from reality when it comes to required HP I need to ask you "normal" folks
I'm bored with my vette and wanna detune it for more civility. So it got me thinking : why not a more average Joe type setup with kit potential. But as many of you know, The only feasable way to provide twins that arnt supertiny (less than 300hp ea) is to go above the framerails. and likely cut into the hood a little.
The biggest internally gated BBgarrett's are the Gt3071R-wg and they breathe 47.5 lbs/min each. They can and will fit beside the valvecovers and easily will allow downpipes with cats.
Together they can make up to 1000fwhp, but will have lightening spool.
There are no less than 5 trims that bolt up to the gt28 turbine. the smallest of which lingenfelter uses on his TT500 package (gt2554)
But Im pretty sure the bigger trims would require eeh "Speed bubbles" on the hood to pull it off without going nuts on the accessory drives.
Then I thought,while were putting a scoop on it, why not a water/air intercooled plenum stealthram while we are at it?
So the induction path goes=
Stock airbox- MAF- 2 hose - turbo inlet - compressor outlet- stock Lt-1 TB-intercoolercore-plenum.
THis would be on each side. so 2 LT1 Tb's, 2 core's but common plenum above the tunnelram.
so lets do a little math
2) gt3071R-wg's with actuators $2500
1) set of 316L weld el headers $1200
1)set of downpipes $150
1) Converted STealthram with (2) 750hp garrett WIC cores and chargepipes $1200
2) Recirculating BOV's $100 (audi/bosch)
1) front heat exchanger and Meziere pump $300
1) 97 later vortec Dizzy $125
1) set of oil drains and feeds $100
1) BTM device (MSD or summit) $269 -summit brand
1)set of moto 65's $400
1) set of "carbon fiber speed bubbles or hoodscoop" $175
Minimum realistic price for a TT kit $6519
After going around the block with may a C4 the best way to go for the 94-96 is to use the MAF (albeit with the constants cut in half) and a BTM It's for sure the least amount of hassle and compromise.
93's and ealier are screwed and have to go standalone or piggyback.
I have emailed greddy a few times about their emainage -ultimate. Ive used these in many an import including the sr-20de. It happens to have the identical trigger wheel as our lt's inside it. If I could get greddy to make some small changes to the code then LT's could take advantage of their capabilities (which is alot!)
Or would it suit more people for much smaller low mount twins, for like up to 650hp? these would be able to fit below the framerails but might require a scavenge pump, and some new engine mounts. Lets expore that possibility:
2) Gt2860 w/actuators $1900
1) set of 316L headers $1200
1) set of downpipes $150
1) custom engine mounts $175
1) Set chargepipes $250
1) water/alky setup $300
1)BTM $269-summit brand
1) set of moto 65's $400
1) recirculating BOV $100
1)oil drains and feeds $100
Minimum realistic Budget kit cost $4844
On a 350" motor those turbos will wake up @1500rpm. It would truly be a idle to 6000 motor as soon after those little things would go into choke. But the insta-torque from 15psi at only 2K would feel like you had 700inches of bigblock.
Now don't get me wrong, this is purly speculative at this point.
But I definitly am building a new turbo setup for me so if I decide to step up to the plate for everyone what should I build folks,
What would suit the general C4 owner better? I'm so far removed from reality when it comes to required HP I need to ask you "normal" folks
Last edited by Baldturbofreak; 10-20-2007 at 09:13 PM.
10-22-2007, 11:13 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
I wouldn't mind cutting the under structure of the hood, but I don't want anything sticking out of the top. I wouldn't buy a kit that required external hood modifications. The furthest I would be willing to go would be some Greenwood heat extractors on the outside of the hood, maybe with some careful placement of those you could make the high mount kit work.
For me, 650 HP is kind of borderline. While it would be awesome to have, I forsee myself wanting more eventually. However, since I'm unwilling to cut the hood, maybe dual power adders (twins and N20) is the only option for me.
lcvette has an LTX single turbo set up that should/could/might support close to 1000 RWHP. His set-up is pretty nice, and I can vouch for the stock appearing external manners of the car. It drives, idles, and acts like a stock car until you hit it. I'm not 100% on what turbo he is running now, but he was mentioning something to me awhile ago that he thought a larger turbo would fit in his location. I think he might of ordered it, but I don't know for sure. Obviously, he could tell you more about it than I could.
For me, 650 HP is kind of borderline. While it would be awesome to have, I forsee myself wanting more eventually. However, since I'm unwilling to cut the hood, maybe dual power adders (twins and N20) is the only option for me.
lcvette has an LTX single turbo set up that should/could/might support close to 1000 RWHP. His set-up is pretty nice, and I can vouch for the stock appearing external manners of the car. It drives, idles, and acts like a stock car until you hit it. I'm not 100% on what turbo he is running now, but he was mentioning something to me awhile ago that he thought a larger turbo would fit in his location. I think he might of ordered it, but I don't know for sure. Obviously, he could tell you more about it than I could.
10-22-2007, 01:31 PM
#3
I like the 650 hp option. I like the sleeper look and price. 650 hp is perfect for the street. I drove a 650 rwhp Supra w/ a single t78 on the street, and can't imagine you would need a whole lot more than that for a weekend cruiser. This thing is tubbed, w/ widebody, 12 x 18 wheels, and bfg drag radials, and still blows the tires off at speed.
10-22-2007, 02:05 PM
#4
Melting Slicks
LOL, Rick you are at it again. Most people that are willing to cut up their hood for more horsepower are the same guys that would build the kit themselves.
Now if you could have a modified hood like Kenny Belle did for the C5 then you'd be in business. There are hadfull of Maggie C5 guys that cut up their hoods to have it, but most went to an aftermarket hood. If there was a way for you to "modify" someones hood and still have it look nice then that might work, but most grease monkeys aren't going to know body work enough to add nice looking hood scoops. And those with enough money to pay someone else have newer vettes.
Having it only '94-'96 would kind of suck for the rest of us. Can you run that much HP through the MAF? I thought it maxed out around 500 hp. If you could find a way to do the Speed Density thing then all of the late C4's could have it. Now that I think about it. I wonder how much work it would be to make a L98/LT1 kit. You'd have to do different IC piping to get it around the accessories, but I wonder if you could do headers that are the same.
Anyways, don't mind my ramblings. Oh, and those kit prices don't include the major engine rebuild that it would take to hold this kind of power.
I think I'm around 650hp now, errr, just before my engine blew up, and I think that would keep most people happy, but there are a few that would need more. I recall some saying about pleasing all of the people all of the time.
Now if you could have a modified hood like Kenny Belle did for the C5 then you'd be in business. There are hadfull of Maggie C5 guys that cut up their hoods to have it, but most went to an aftermarket hood. If there was a way for you to "modify" someones hood and still have it look nice then that might work, but most grease monkeys aren't going to know body work enough to add nice looking hood scoops. And those with enough money to pay someone else have newer vettes.
Having it only '94-'96 would kind of suck for the rest of us. Can you run that much HP through the MAF? I thought it maxed out around 500 hp. If you could find a way to do the Speed Density thing then all of the late C4's could have it. Now that I think about it. I wonder how much work it would be to make a L98/LT1 kit. You'd have to do different IC piping to get it around the accessories, but I wonder if you could do headers that are the same.
Anyways, don't mind my ramblings. Oh, and those kit prices don't include the major engine rebuild that it would take to hold this kind of power.
I think I'm around 650hp now, errr, just before my engine blew up, and I think that would keep most people happy, but there are a few that would need more. I recall some saying about pleasing all of the people all of the time.
10-22-2007, 04:17 PM
#5
what are these 316L headers? custom made?
I think if someone with patence would sit there and figure out how to make a short runner exhuast manifold, you could mount a t4 sized turbo next to the valve covers, along with trimming the hood suport rails.
I think the key would be figuring out how to mount the turbo so it is sitting on the exhuast bolts centerline.
I would like to lower my engine. this would allow more room... too bad the whole drive line would be effected.
I dont want to mod my hood at all. I would rather move everything under it before I cut it to allow things to stick out.
I think if someone with patence would sit there and figure out how to make a short runner exhuast manifold, you could mount a t4 sized turbo next to the valve covers, along with trimming the hood suport rails.
I think the key would be figuring out how to mount the turbo so it is sitting on the exhuast bolts centerline.
I would like to lower my engine. this would allow more room... too bad the whole drive line would be effected.
I dont want to mod my hood at all. I would rather move everything under it before I cut it to allow things to stick out.
10-22-2007, 07:27 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
If I were going to go the turbo route, i'd cut my hood for 1000+ hp. But in the meantime, I'll stick with my vortech ysi which is a proven unit (well maybe not on any c4's but on other apps) up to 1000 rwhp and fits under the stock hood.
Awesome project either way and I'm looking forward to seeing it happen!
Awesome project either way and I'm looking forward to seeing it happen!
10-23-2007, 08:52 PM
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
LOL, Rick you are at it again. Most people that are willing to cut up their hood for more horsepower are the same guys that would build the kit themselves.
Now if you could have a modified hood like Kenny Belle did for the C5 then you'd be in business. There are hadfull of Maggie C5 guys that cut up their hoods to have it, but most went to an aftermarket hood. If there was a way for you to "modify" someones hood and still have it look nice then that might work, but most grease monkeys aren't going to know body work enough to add nice looking hood scoops. And those with enough money to pay someone else have newer vettes.
Having it only '94-'96 would kind of suck for the rest of us. Can you run that much HP through the MAF? I thought it maxed out around 500 hp. If you could find a way to do the Speed Density thing then all of the late C4's could have it. Now that I think about it. I wonder how much work it would be to make a L98/LT1 kit. You'd have to do different IC piping to get it around the accessories, but I wonder if you could do headers that are the same.
Anyways, don't mind my ramblings. Oh, and those kit prices don't include the major engine rebuild that it would take to hold this kind of power.
I think I'm around 650hp now, errr, just before my engine blew up, and I think that would keep most people happy, but there are a few that would need more. I recall some saying about pleasing all of the people all of the time.
Now if you could have a modified hood like Kenny Belle did for the C5 then you'd be in business. There are hadfull of Maggie C5 guys that cut up their hoods to have it, but most went to an aftermarket hood. If there was a way for you to "modify" someones hood and still have it look nice then that might work, but most grease monkeys aren't going to know body work enough to add nice looking hood scoops. And those with enough money to pay someone else have newer vettes.
Having it only '94-'96 would kind of suck for the rest of us. Can you run that much HP through the MAF? I thought it maxed out around 500 hp. If you could find a way to do the Speed Density thing then all of the late C4's could have it. Now that I think about it. I wonder how much work it would be to make a L98/LT1 kit. You'd have to do different IC piping to get it around the accessories, but I wonder if you could do headers that are the same.
Anyways, don't mind my ramblings. Oh, and those kit prices don't include the major engine rebuild that it would take to hold this kind of power.
I think I'm around 650hp now, errr, just before my engine blew up, and I think that would keep most people happy, but there are a few that would need more. I recall some saying about pleasing all of the people all of the time.
Yea,
Since Im outta school for a year, I have time for more corvette action.
BTF Racing Inc is not doing anymore customs, at least for a while. Trying to get 10 serious builds out a year has really began to stress me to the limits and like you said, you can't please everyone everytime. I had to drop my spring semester classes (E.E.T) and layoff the second degree for a while. My wife has had about enough of the 100 hour weeks,too.
Now that we have invested seriously in machines and tooling (im still keeping my dyno) we have been delving more and more in small scale manufacturing.(back to roots) With our upcoming addition of our 4th axis rotary table, things will be getting really interesting..
a hood mold is not only possible,but likely. I have about 9 mos working experiance with vaccuum bag carbon fiber composite molding so far (both wet layup and RTM) But to get a super nice finish you need metal and our hoods are waaaay bigger then the axis travels of our humble cnc machine.
that means the mold has to be done the old fashioned way and as you build more and more hoods the mold quality declines. Based puley on my guesstimate of materials, the hood would have to be like 800-1200 to get any return on the mold/time. (carbon fiber of course)
But back to q's I definitly have gotten around the maf limit with the good ol' tried and true constant halving method. That is half cyl vol, half inj flow const. half MAf tables etc. be sure to max out the Max input frequncy constant. It works but as you know, there are better methods.
The best method for EVERYONE might be to repin the harness for a late model Vortec/ls 0411 ecm. With a little HP tuner/efi live action it will support 3 bar speed density, and possibly communicate with the CCM,(I'm looking into it) Leaving smogability intact. Not to mention the convienience of the obd2 self diagnosis, ability to use MSD dashhawk/aeroforce gauages.
For LT's it will required the 96 cover and crank sensor + vortec dizzy.
L98's would need a later model Vortec front cover and dizzy.
The other option again is the GReddy Emanage Ultimate. But trying to get to talk to an actual person is difficult, let alone talk to an engineer about a code change (and my japanese sucks)
There is a hardened version of the Megasquirt now as well as the Spectere version. It's possible to setup a plug and play T-harness. l98's are right in there with their 7 pin hei. super easy.
The LT's still dont have a working decoder model yet so the best bet would be BTM/fuel only or crank trigger. I set mine up for 1)$16 (2000 3.8l stang crank sensor) 2)$48 60-2 crank wheel (8")
Thinking it over, if the kit was setup exclusivly for the Holley stealthram lower/my intercooled upper, I dont think it would matter what accesories were on the front of the motor. I'll just need a close look at a member's L98 to confirm.
Yea definitly not included is the forged motor/badasz clutch you'll need to turn it up real hard.
This would be purly the hardware the average joe would need to put a nice turbo setup together.Wrenches ,bloodyknuckles and bad language not included.
I'm ready for turbo upgrades on my wife's GXP as are most of the rest of the owners.(CMON Hptuners unlock that pcm!) soon there will be shiitloads on ebay. Theyy are freakin tiny,internallygated and recirculated bov'd. How about 4 turbo's
hell if they are cheap we can do 2 above and 2 below! lol Then you can brag about your Quadturbo vette
10-24-2007, 04:08 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Come to think of it, Since a new hood will require a new under support, it's just as easy to make all inlet ducting to the turbo part of the under support. Requiring a blow thru maf or speed density. But it will allow a bitchin' ram air in the nose.
I think the calloway's we constructed in this manner.
I think the calloway's we constructed in this manner.
10-24-2007, 04:41 PM
#9
Le Mans Master
Rick, here is my opinion. Build something for around $5,000.00 or less and let it work on a stock motor. Offer upgrades but start low. The reason being is this, the majority of us c-4 owners are not going to pay $7,000.00 + buy a built motor for a c-4. We are simply too tight.
Now if you offered the package for a c-6 or even a c-5 there is probably a group willing to spend 15-20 thousand on a package like that.
Ill admit, we end up spending it anyways, but it seems we have to do it the hard way.
BTW, after looking at your craftmanship on Bruces car, (mine now) I feel sure whatever you build will be first rate!!
Now if you offered the package for a c-6 or even a c-5 there is probably a group willing to spend 15-20 thousand on a package like that.
Ill admit, we end up spending it anyways, but it seems we have to do it the hard way.
BTW, after looking at your craftmanship on Bruces car, (mine now) I feel sure whatever you build will be first rate!!
10-24-2007, 05:05 PM
#10
Come to think of it, Since a new hood will require a new under support, it's just as easy to make all inlet ducting to the turbo part of the under support. Requiring a blow thru maf or speed density. But it will allow a bitchin' ram air in the nose.
I think the calloway's we constructed in this manner.
I think the calloway's we constructed in this manner.
saw these on ebay. it looks like the idea is to ram air into the support braces. who knows if it works.
personally if it went this route I would like to see something a bit less flashy. maybe a slight high rise cowl with the nasa ducts... but the rest of it is a bit too much for me.
10-31-2007, 03:25 PM
#11
Drifting
Thread Starter
hah you know what's weird, compressor map wise,4 borgwarner K04's would fit a warmed SBC perfectly. hmmm...
I was also thinkin today, a tube K would shed weight and open up lots of room.
I was also thinkin today, a tube K would shed weight and open up lots of room.
10-31-2007, 03:54 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
May be a way.
How about a setup like John Meaney has on his alledged 1400hp C4 vette? He has twins under the hood. Now he had Troy Trepanier do the packaging of the turbos and piping so no clue as the level of fabrication/trickness required to do this, it might be beyond anything that could be classified as kit'able. They were mounted just forward of the motor up high. I wish I could find a picture of it, it's the blue/green vette that has been in a few mags and on that program where he gave Joe Rogan a ride before he had the Sick Fish 'Cuda built. Again no clue how impossible this placement configuration would be for joe normal installer, but he had twins under the stock hood in a daily driver making an alledged 1400hp. I assume that's flywheel. If I can find a pic I will edit and put it in. Just food for thought.
10-31-2007, 04:34 PM
#13
and maybe quad turbos. I would be all in on that if it would be proven to offer and advantage. quicker spool time and not kill off top end?
whats the idea, 4 turbos on top, 2 up and 2 down?
saw this thing on ebay some time ago.
10-31-2007, 05:54 PM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
lol! see I'm not the only nut in the tree. I liked the idea of Ko4's cause they have the wastegate and bypass valve built in.
I was thinkin 2 above 2 below becuse it would allow for nice packaging. realisitically they onlly need 2.25" downpipes with 2.25" intakes. Thats pretty easy to get by stuff. COmpressor discharges can be a paltry 2" to the intercooler.
Besides the quick look would go wow what little turbos'!
The Tube crossmember came to mind by a most crazy means: Did you know that the front diff from a s10 could easily fit in front of our cars? 24" hub to hub. And with some cnc machining the hubs from said s-10 (abs sensor and all) could fit in our spindles....
I was thinkin 2 above 2 below becuse it would allow for nice packaging. realisitically they onlly need 2.25" downpipes with 2.25" intakes. Thats pretty easy to get by stuff. COmpressor discharges can be a paltry 2" to the intercooler.
Besides the quick look would go wow what little turbos'!
The Tube crossmember came to mind by a most crazy means: Did you know that the front diff from a s10 could easily fit in front of our cars? 24" hub to hub. And with some cnc machining the hubs from said s-10 (abs sensor and all) could fit in our spindles....
10-31-2007, 07:34 PM
#15
You're not kidding?
I thought about this a bit and thought it would need some syclone gear... if the S-10 fits, thats great. Looking at that quadra deuce set up... Looks like some serious cnc work for the spindles.
I was thinking if you could flip the transfer case over and shove the drive shaft to the front going through the passenger area. maybe a second hump in the passenger seating area.... use the diff to offset drivers wieght? lol
of course you would probably just build and oil pan that the front DS could go through.
Do you think there is some room to maybe push the engine back a hair if needed? of course using the cut this and that method.
Have you been looking at the GT-R?
10-31-2007, 07:40 PM
#16
another thing. there was a car built a long time ago called something like frankenstude. they did a V8 AWD these are the only pics I ever found of it.
I hear everyone talk about drive train loss on AWD cars, and most dont pull very hard on top speeds.... you think something can be done to deal with shutting it down on the fly? or does the syclone transfercase have viscous coupling? are they even available?
I hear everyone talk about drive train loss on AWD cars, and most dont pull very hard on top speeds.... you think something can be done to deal with shutting it down on the fly? or does the syclone transfercase have viscous coupling? are they even available?
10-31-2007, 09:11 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Seriously the axle ends up put n front of the crank. There is just no need for a custom pan.
Now the transfer case has me perplexed. I can just cnc an adapter for a AWD case from a truck. auto guys have it easy, as there is already hardware for it. but Im keeping the ZF-6. So I'm thinkin about somethin external. I can easily just make one from 1" aluminum plates using the guts (minus the low range) from an existing tranfer case.
Thing is I want torque splitting that I can control.
Best compromise would prolly be the torsen diff from the 4T65E front driver (GMPP catalog) Chain driven or gear/idler driven. I think I can make a tranfer case that weighs less than 65lbs. and take my 1200ft/lbs. Gm claims no breakage with all their front drivin' race cars with that diff, and as a plus we would be on the upside of the diff reduction (pre pinion).
My other idea was to use a blower belt and pullies with a dryclutch for actuation. I could use the ASR motor feed to actuate the front end. =mostly rear drive. Yea I like that best.
we can disconect the front end by de-energizing the front coupler. Id be pissed if I had to buy a SECOND roll to tune my own car.
But I bet the kinda folks that will be lookin for a conversion like this are packing mighty big sticks. Not to worried about drivetrain loss, just worried about the detached retneas they are getting from acceleration. lol
Now the transfer case has me perplexed. I can just cnc an adapter for a AWD case from a truck. auto guys have it easy, as there is already hardware for it. but Im keeping the ZF-6. So I'm thinkin about somethin external. I can easily just make one from 1" aluminum plates using the guts (minus the low range) from an existing tranfer case.
Thing is I want torque splitting that I can control.
Best compromise would prolly be the torsen diff from the 4T65E front driver (GMPP catalog) Chain driven or gear/idler driven. I think I can make a tranfer case that weighs less than 65lbs. and take my 1200ft/lbs. Gm claims no breakage with all their front drivin' race cars with that diff, and as a plus we would be on the upside of the diff reduction (pre pinion).
My other idea was to use a blower belt and pullies with a dryclutch for actuation. I could use the ASR motor feed to actuate the front end. =mostly rear drive. Yea I like that best.
we can disconect the front end by de-energizing the front coupler. Id be pissed if I had to buy a SECOND roll to tune my own car.
But I bet the kinda folks that will be lookin for a conversion like this are packing mighty big sticks. Not to worried about drivetrain loss, just worried about the detached retneas they are getting from acceleration. lol
Last edited by Baldturbofreak; 10-31-2007 at 09:22 PM.
10-31-2007, 09:24 PM
#18
Melting Slicks
Rick, if you can figure out how to do it without interfering with the oil pan, or where my turbo kit is, I'd jump all over a 4wd vette. Assuming you could keep the price around 5k or under. Retaining the 6-speed would be a must though.
There is a guy on this forum from Sweeden that has dropped a typhoon AWD system in his vette. I don't recall what year it was, but I remember seeing the pics a while back.
I can't launch worth crap with my 6-speed, and I spin horribly on the 1-2 shift, but an 4wd system would easily pull a full second off of my quarter mile.
EDIT: Sorry the guy is from Poland, and its a '79 C3
Here's a clip of the thing running:
http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos/10...-AWD-Turbo.htm
And here's some build pics
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=poland
There is a guy on this forum from Sweeden that has dropped a typhoon AWD system in his vette. I don't recall what year it was, but I remember seeing the pics a while back.
I can't launch worth crap with my 6-speed, and I spin horribly on the 1-2 shift, but an 4wd system would easily pull a full second off of my quarter mile.
EDIT: Sorry the guy is from Poland, and its a '79 C3
Here's a clip of the thing running:
http://www.dpccars.com/car-videos/10...-AWD-Turbo.htm
And here's some build pics
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ghlight=poland
Last edited by mn_vette; 10-31-2007 at 09:37 PM.
10-31-2007, 10:11 PM
#19
Drifting
Thread Starter
Brian, compared to my drysump mess I cant see how you would need to change anything. Worst case scenario, your crossover we need a re-do.
MY brain is going a mile a minute on this. I ran some real quick calcs(had to guess at manufacturer's Coeff of friction) and searches for clutches. With 4 kx250 clutchsets(32 discs) it will only require 50-60 lbs to lockup 400ft/lbs making a properly reducted ASR drive a real possibility.
Let me paint a picture
You roll up to average light on average summer night. that pesky WRX /evo/DSM that always kills you from stoplight to stoplight has found you again.
your lil'baby turbo's roll in at 1650.
You simply let out the clutch at 2500, the rear 335 DR's slip about 2 revs before the ASR light (re screened to say AWD) comes on letting you know the AWD has enguaged. The front 295 DR's dig in. No more squeel. No more pesky rallycar.
Suprise buddy, a taste of your own medicine!
Now for front knuckles, we have an option here.
If I go cleansheet on the knuckles I could move the Rack to the rear. It would help with clearance and let the blower guys go wild with pullies.
TONY! Im thinkin of you buddy!
MY brain is going a mile a minute on this. I ran some real quick calcs(had to guess at manufacturer's Coeff of friction) and searches for clutches. With 4 kx250 clutchsets(32 discs) it will only require 50-60 lbs to lockup 400ft/lbs making a properly reducted ASR drive a real possibility.
Let me paint a picture
You roll up to average light on average summer night. that pesky WRX /evo/DSM that always kills you from stoplight to stoplight has found you again.
your lil'baby turbo's roll in at 1650.
You simply let out the clutch at 2500, the rear 335 DR's slip about 2 revs before the ASR light (re screened to say AWD) comes on letting you know the AWD has enguaged. The front 295 DR's dig in. No more squeel. No more pesky rallycar.
Suprise buddy, a taste of your own medicine!
Now for front knuckles, we have an option here.
If I go cleansheet on the knuckles I could move the Rack to the rear. It would help with clearance and let the blower guys go wild with pullies.
TONY! Im thinkin of you buddy!
11-01-2007, 06:36 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
If you can get something together in the 5 grand range, keep me in mind. I was thinking a 9 in rear in time, but this would be better. By the way, you know my combo!!