C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Sassifrassin''' *&#)&^%!(@*% Torx!!!!

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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 10:52 PM
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Default Sassifrassin''' *&#)&^%!(@*% Torx!!!!

I knew it. I can't believe they use torx to hold the majority of the TPI manifolds together and today I have reason to be pissssssssssdddddd!

At the upper fitting, the lower EGR tube torx screw stripped during removal. I cleaned out the hole and tried epoxying the #40 torx in the hole. Letting it sit all night. Wish me luck, I'll need it!

If that doesn't work should I:
1) Drill the head off and try to drill/tap manifold on the car.
2) Drill into the torx and try easy outs (possibly resulting in more mayhem).
3) Enlist someone with a portable welder to tack onto it.
4) Cuss and cuss and cuss and never drive it again.
5) Sell it as is and advertise is a "customized".
6) Finish the injectors put it back together and take it to a shop.
7) Other ideas?
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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That stupid pipe caused me more headache. I twisted one of my torx bits like a barber shop pole trying to get that out. I think the only way to get it out is to use an impact wrench. I guess with a 1/2 inch to 3/8s reducer.

I was taking the manifold off so I just left it connected. THEN, I had to take the head off to get the manifold out with the pipe attached.

I sold most of my old parts, so the pipe again, gave me all kinds of headaches when packing for shipping.

I hate that pipe.
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Old Oct 21, 2007 | 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I knew it. I can't believe they use torx to hold the majority of the TPI manifolds together and today I have reason to be pissssssssssdddddd!

At the upper fitting, the lower EGR tube torx screw stripped during removal. I cleaned out the hole and tried epoxying the #40 torx in the hole. Letting it sit all night. Wish me luck, I'll need it!

If that doesn't work should I:
1) Drill the head off and try to drill/tap manifold on the car.
2) Drill into the torx and try easy outs (possibly resulting in more mayhem).
3) Enlist someone with a portable welder to tack onto it.
4) Cuss and cuss and cuss and never drive it again.
5) Sell it as is and advertise is a "customized".
6) Finish the injectors put it back together and take it to a shop.
7) Other ideas?

First off, did you hit it w/ some PB Blaster? It is the best stuff for loosening bolts like that. The next thing to do is to try some heat in it, but only after you have the fuel rail out. Or you could just remove the ERG system, that's what I did.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jsup
That stupid pipe caused me more headache. I twisted one of my torx bits like a barber shop pole trying to get that out. I think the only way to get it out is to use an impact wrench. I guess with a 1/2 inch to 3/8s reducer.

I was taking the manifold off so I just left it connected. THEN, I had to take the head off to get the manifold out with the pipe attached.

I sold most of my old parts, so the pipe again, gave me all kinds of headaches when packing for shipping.

I hate that pipe.
Oh great! ! !
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by RandyJ75
First off, did you hit it w/ some PB Blaster? It is the best stuff for loosening bolts like that. The next thing to do is to try some heat in it, but only after you have the fuel rail out. Or you could just remove the ERG system, that's what I did.
There are some elements of that I like. I'm not crazy about the polutants that are re-rounted back into the manifold of the motor. I has to shorten engine life.

If you removed the EGR system, wouldn't you have to plug the holes anyway? How'd you do that?

-----------

I also just remembered an old trick about slotting the screw and using a flat-blade, but I can't figure out how I'd cut a slot in this screw. It's the one UNDER the top-end of the EGR tube. And, it's down in a "hole".

Last edited by GREGGPENN; Oct 22, 2007 at 03:06 AM.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
There are some elements of that I like. I'm not crazy about the polutants that are re-rounted back into the manifold of the motor. I has to shorten engine life.

If you removed the EGR system, wouldn't you have to plug the holes anyway? How'd you do that?

-----------

I also just remembered an old trick about slotting the screw and using a flat-blade, but I can't figure out how I'd cut a slot in this screw. It's the one UNDER the top-end of the EGR tube. And, it's down in a "hole".
Cut the slot with a Dremel cutting wheel. I did.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:50 AM
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Try fitting one of your metric or sae allan sockets in torx head. Get an impack driver you hit with hammer once you find allan that fits and smack the h--- out of it. Worked for me.
lots of luck
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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I drilled through the one on mine. Took the pipe out of the way and used vice grips to unscrew what was left. Now I have a MiniRam, no egr. I can remove the whole thing before you can have the runners off stock tpi.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
There are some elements of that I like. I'm not crazy about the polutants that are re-rounted back into the manifold of the motor. I has to shorten engine life.

If you removed the EGR system, wouldn't you have to plug the holes anyway? How'd you do that?

-----------
ERG block off plates. I bought mine from TPiS, should be easy to find.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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When you manage to remove the screw you will probably have stripped the threads. Mine were stripped. At least on my 86, I believe that the screw is metric. I stepped up to a 5/16th (I think) tap and screw and it went in solid.

BTW, be careful with the darn temp sensor. I decided to replace mine. Disconnecting the electrical connection was OK but connecting the new one was a royal pain. There is no freaking slack in the wire to which you connect, nothing to provide support for pushing on, and precious little room for one hand.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by khhammer
Oh great! ! !
Not to worry, it's still in one piece.....
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by genefree3
Try fitting one of your metric or sae allan sockets in torx head. Get an impack driver you hit with hammer once you find allan that fits and smack the h--- out of it. Worked for me.
lots of luck
I used a combination of your and Sam (Bob) Lamb's advice... I took a new torx and beat it into the hole using a long 1/2" extention. Then I leaned and twisted in one big surge. It came loose! (This was after I release the bottom end to get straighter access to the screw. See next para).

I also had to use an impact on the lower screws. The rust from the backside of the protruding screws did cause stripping. I had to use the claw of a hammer and pry up on the screws as I impact-wrenched them out.

Hard to believe, but it's out.

Now, I'm working on the runners/valve covers. I have all the screws out of both except the lower runner screws. Those won't come out til the valve covers are off, but the valve covers hit the runners as I slide them up.

Nothing like a good paradox for a Monday drag.

gp
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 02:59 PM
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Glad it worked for you, remember the magic word, "never seize" Best thing since sliced bread.
Gene
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGGPENN
I used a combination of your and Sam (Bob) Lamb's advice... I took a new torx and beat it into the hole using a long 1/2" extention. Then I leaned and twisted in one big surge. It came loose! (This was after I release the bottom end to get straighter access to the screw. See next para).

I also had to use an impact on the lower screws. The rust from the backside of the protruding screws did cause stripping. I had to use the claw of a hammer and pry up on the screws as I impact-wrenched them out.

Hard to believe, but it's out.

Now, I'm working on the runners/valve covers. I have all the screws out of both except the lower runner screws. Those won't come out til the valve covers are off, but the valve covers hit the runners as I slide them up.

Nothing like a good paradox for a Monday drag.

gp
Greg,
You should be able to get to the lower ones with the valve covers on, just need some extensions and universal adapters for the angles....having fun yet? Good luck with the rest of the work!
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 03:32 PM
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Now come on bd2626 quit poking fun at Gregg. We both know he has at least 3 skined knuckles and one smashed finger by now. Not to mention his wife telling him "I told you to take it to the shop" We have to keep our chuckles and smirks to ourselves.
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by genefree3
Now come on bd2626 quit poking fun at Gregg. We both know he has at least 3 skined knuckles and one smashed finger by now. Not to mention his wife telling him "I told you to take it to the shop" We have to keep our chuckles and smirks to ourselves.


Only one small cut on the back of my left hand... never felt it. Oh yeah, the palm of my left hand is pretty sore from pressing on the ratchet handle SOOOO hard while removing those torx.

The wife is OOT (Orlando). She wouldn't be afraid. She's seen me do injectors, turbos, clutches before. She's also seen me swap all the bumpers & hood on my vette. How could a little mess that looks like my motor expoded in the garage scare her? Seriously, it's not HER car. She won't be nervous. (But I am a little -- cause I've never pulled a dist before. Timing gears, yes. Trans yes. Turbo yes. Overhead cam head yes. This is something new).

gp
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 10:34 PM
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There's a cure for those damn torq bolts. Head off to your local hardware store and buy stainless allan bolts to replace them. Solves two problems. one seizing in aluminum and the second the allan head just holds a lot better.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by genefree3
There's a cure for those damn torq bolts. Head off to your local hardware store and buy stainless allan bolts to replace them. Solves two problems. one seizing in aluminum and the second the allan head just holds a lot better.
Would you happen to remember the size of the bolts and number used?
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:42 AM
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Got my stainless steel hardware from McMaster Carr. http://www.mcmaster.com/


I pulled this from this site this forum:

Courtesy of CentralCoaster:


Top of runners into plenum:

(7) M8x30
plus the special bolt with throttle cable holder.


Bottom of runners into intake baseplate:

(4) M8x55 underneath each runner pair between tubes.

(6) M8x30 at each end of the runner flange, and one in the middle

(2) M8x40 go into the backside of the runner flange, you have to do these from the opposite side of the motor.


Fuel rail:

(4) M8x35 bolts from the top
(2) M8x20 on the little flange in front of the intake.
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by genefree3
Now come on bd2626 quit poking fun at Gregg. We both know he has at least 3 skined knuckles and one smashed finger by now. Not to mention his wife telling him "I told you to take it to the shop" We have to keep our chuckles and smirks to ourselves.
Is that before or after a few ?
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