tranny filter swap
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tranny filter swap
Simple tech, but there might be some simple techs here, like me
Edit: the 16-penny nails (3 inches off the upper edge) keep the 2 x 6's from slidin' down the ramp. Drill the hole so you can pull the nails for storage.
I put the hot water hose under the car to wash away some road jam.
Edit: the 16-penny nails (3 inches off the upper edge) keep the 2 x 6's from slidin' down the ramp. Drill the hole so you can pull the nails for storage.
I put the hot water hose under the car to wash away some road jam.
Last edited by schrade; Oct 23, 2007 at 09:13 PM.
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Well, it never fails. There's always ONE bolt. Always.
I got the pan seal broken, and a drip drain. Just like the Jimmy, there's 2 pan bolts on the drivers side holdin' the tranny linkage. I left one bolt in there, cause I can't see if anything will spring loose.
That's the easy one. On the passenger side, there's one bolt, which is NOT used for an exhaust hanger, but the exhaust pipe clamp is PERFECTLY in line with that bolt. PERFECTLY!!!! see pic 40(?) edit: 3rd pic
It's gonna' take a box or an open end, one half of one sixth turn (one twelfth, I guess ) at a time, to get it out.
The pics are the best I could get for breakdown............. If you're not happy later, I'll quadriple - that's 3x4 - your $$$ back.
I got the pan seal broken, and a drip drain. Just like the Jimmy, there's 2 pan bolts on the drivers side holdin' the tranny linkage. I left one bolt in there, cause I can't see if anything will spring loose.
That's the easy one. On the passenger side, there's one bolt, which is NOT used for an exhaust hanger, but the exhaust pipe clamp is PERFECTLY in line with that bolt. PERFECTLY!!!! see pic 40(?) edit: 3rd pic
It's gonna' take a box or an open end, one half of one sixth turn (one twelfth, I guess ) at a time, to get it out.
The pics are the best I could get for breakdown............. If you're not happy later, I'll quadriple - that's 3x4 - your $$$ back.
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Well, it's dark out (I'm a weatherman - that's how come I know that), so I'm readin' the worthless Hayne's Corvette repair manual (they should change the name from Hayne's to Charmin, except it won't fit on the toilet paper roller).
The procedure doesn't mention the linkage for the shifter, or anything special. It's generic. An advanced primate (NO OFFENSE CURIOUS GEORGE)wouldn't need these instructions. But just out of curiousity, I looked at Hayne's for my CJ-7 copyright 1986. The procedure is almost verbatim the same. The first couple of steps ARE verbatim the same.
The procedure doesn't mention the linkage for the shifter, or anything special. It's generic. An advanced primate (NO OFFENSE CURIOUS GEORGE)wouldn't need these instructions. But just out of curiousity, I looked at Hayne's for my CJ-7 copyright 1986. The procedure is almost verbatim the same. The first couple of steps ARE verbatim the same.
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Here's what we're lookin' at with the passenger side pan bolt.
I used the closed end 13 mm. It ain't a picnic, cause of a flange on the pan flange itself, the heat shield for the exhaust, the clamp, 3 turtledoves and a partridge in a pear tree.
It slipped once. You don't want to round off the head. And be careful with a laptop underneath the car.
Now on to the shift linkage...........
I used the closed end 13 mm. It ain't a picnic, cause of a flange on the pan flange itself, the heat shield for the exhaust, the clamp, 3 turtledoves and a partridge in a pear tree.
It slipped once. You don't want to round off the head. And be careful with a laptop underneath the car.
Now on to the shift linkage...........
Last edited by schrade; Oct 23, 2007 at 07:58 PM.
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The shift linkage/pan bolt didn't pull any punches.
The last 2 bolts are loose - one in the middle of the pan front, one in the middle of the pan rear. I put one paw up to the middle of the pan and pushed upward to the case, and held it tightly, so when I undid the last 2 bolts with my 5 thumbs on the other paw, the pan wouldn't surprise me with any tranny juice.
Notice that clamp on the right of the frame.
Nice placement, Bowling Green. Did you use a laser-guided smart clamp for that?
The last 2 bolts are loose - one in the middle of the pan front, one in the middle of the pan rear. I put one paw up to the middle of the pan and pushed upward to the case, and held it tightly, so when I undid the last 2 bolts with my 5 thumbs on the other paw, the pan wouldn't surprise me with any tranny juice.
Notice that clamp on the right of the frame.
Nice placement, Bowling Green. Did you use a laser-guided smart clamp for that?
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Niiiiiiiiice!
Nice straight drop. Oops - just a little hook there, get off that!!! Just a little tilt, no torrents, easy does it... little tip, little more, llllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittttttttttttt ttttttttttttttle bit mooooooooooooooooore. Okay, little pour. Little more tip, ......... GET OFF THAT HOOK!!!!
C'mon down....... little more tip, little more flow...........
OK, turn the pan upside down, pour out the tranny fluid - there we go
Nice placement, Bowling Green. Did you use a laser-guided smart clamp for that? (Or did I ask that already?)
Nice straight drop. Oops - just a little hook there, get off that!!! Just a little tilt, no torrents, easy does it... little tip, little more, llllllliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiittttttttttttt ttttttttttttttle bit mooooooooooooooooore. Okay, little pour. Little more tip, ......... GET OFF THAT HOOK!!!!
C'mon down....... little more tip, little more flow...........
OK, turn the pan upside down, pour out the tranny fluid - there we go
Nice placement, Bowling Green. Did you use a laser-guided smart clamp for that? (Or did I ask that already?)
Last edited by schrade; Oct 23, 2007 at 10:47 PM.
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Tell ya' what - ATF in yer coffee ain't bad. Makes ya' fast. In more ways than one And the grit makes for good tartar control
EDIT: Yup, not bad at all. Where's the rest of that stuff...? Ah - there's the pan...
Dang. Drat. All gone.
EDIT: Yup, not bad at all. Where's the rest of that stuff...? Ah - there's the pan...
Dang. Drat. All gone.
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This part was easy...
Didn't take long either, aftrer chewin' some of that ATF coffee. Except for the trips to the john
Tell ya' what else can go is these mosquitos serenadin' me in my ear.
Lesson 1: Don't swat 'em with ATF on yer hand.
Lesson b: Don't pick yer nose either.
EDIT: If yer lookin' on the fingertip for the trophy, it fell off.
Didn't take long either, aftrer chewin' some of that ATF coffee. Except for the trips to the john
Tell ya' what else can go is these mosquitos serenadin' me in my ear.
Lesson 1: Don't swat 'em with ATF on yer hand.
Lesson b: Don't pick yer nose either.
EDIT: If yer lookin' on the fingertip for the trophy, it fell off.
Last edited by schrade; Oct 23, 2007 at 07:14 PM. Reason: details
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This magnet was pretty scary. Filmy, so fine, it didn't even feel gritty. Supposedly, they use lead at assembly. I'm guessin' that's what we got here...
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Even if your exhaust clamp does NOT block access to any pan bolts, yer gonna' have to loosen the clamp, and roll it around to the side away from the pan, or at least on the bottom side of the pipe. Loosenin' exhaust clamps ain't a picnic.
I don't think you'll be able to get the pan back up without the clean gasket hittin' somethin', and gettin' knocked away from the flange. It's alreaady tough enough gettin' the pan holes, the gasket holes, and the case holes lined up, on a straight lift................
I don't think you'll be able to get the pan back up without the clean gasket hittin' somethin', and gettin' knocked away from the flange. It's alreaady tough enough gettin' the pan holes, the gasket holes, and the case holes lined up, on a straight lift................
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If there's only the linkage bracket, OR the exhaust clamp, you could give the pan a LITTLE tip to one side, as you go back up. If you're blocked from both sides, you ain't goin' anywhere.
I got the bolt off the exhaust clamp screw, after lettin' it soak with penetratin' lube. The clamp was spot welded on the back side, away from the pan, and it had to be bent below and above to make a straight shot to the pan. If the clamp gets too much of a distortion, I'll be able without a problem to put back on a U-clamp. The weld joint didn't break, so we should be okay. Make absolutely certain, anytime you have a high stress bolt, that you use a box wrench, if possible. Roundin' off a bolt is a killer ...
Notice closely in the second and third pics, the pan bolt hole, that's blocked by the clamp. THEN, picture the pan blockin the wrench from the OTHER side. Good job there, Bowling Green.
Pretty good pics too there, huh??? Feel free to wing some $$$ my way. Just kiddin'. Just don't send me a bill for the bad advice
Now I know why those guys in Hollyweird take so much from ya' at the flicks
I got the bolt off the exhaust clamp screw, after lettin' it soak with penetratin' lube. The clamp was spot welded on the back side, away from the pan, and it had to be bent below and above to make a straight shot to the pan. If the clamp gets too much of a distortion, I'll be able without a problem to put back on a U-clamp. The weld joint didn't break, so we should be okay. Make absolutely certain, anytime you have a high stress bolt, that you use a box wrench, if possible. Roundin' off a bolt is a killer ...
Notice closely in the second and third pics, the pan bolt hole, that's blocked by the clamp. THEN, picture the pan blockin the wrench from the OTHER side. Good job there, Bowling Green.
Pretty good pics too there, huh??? Feel free to wing some $$$ my way. Just kiddin'. Just don't send me a bill for the bad advice
Now I know why those guys in Hollyweird take so much from ya' at the flicks
Last edited by schrade; Jul 16, 2008 at 05:10 PM.
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Replace? Re-install?
That's a pretty heavy-duty clamp. Looks like a grade 5 or 8 bolt too - I can't tell by the markin's. Probably $30 at Chevy. Looks like it will spread the load pretty good too, whereas a U-clamp could break the weld joint.
That's a pretty heavy-duty clamp. Looks like a grade 5 or 8 bolt too - I can't tell by the markin's. Probably $30 at Chevy. Looks like it will spread the load pretty good too, whereas a U-clamp could break the weld joint.
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The clamp wasn't spot-welded into place - looks like it was riveted into the pipe that's on the outside at the joint.
If I do re-use this guy, I'm thinkin' put some exhaust patch material inside the clamp, just to insure the clamp load gets spread good on the pipe......
If I do re-use this guy, I'm thinkin' put some exhaust patch material inside the clamp, just to insure the clamp load gets spread good on the pipe......
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Day 4, to change the tranny fluid and filter.You can probably do it in 3 hours. This car ain't my daily rider, and I'm kinda' meticulous about screwin' stuff up .
I got the top line disconnected, and no gusher. Not a drop. Apparently, that top line feeds directly into the pan - no hardware. I got 8 ounces of juice from it (and a mess). Lotta' resistance from it tho' with the sucker.......
now on to the lower line..............................
EDIT: the lower line didn't give up any goodies..........
I got the top line disconnected, and no gusher. Not a drop. Apparently, that top line feeds directly into the pan - no hardware. I got 8 ounces of juice from it (and a mess). Lotta' resistance from it tho' with the sucker.......
now on to the lower line..............................
EDIT: the lower line didn't give up any goodies..........
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and the rest of the good smileys too!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did a dry fit with the cleaned pan, have NOT wiped the tranny case flange. Had to see how well we could get the cleaned lubed gasketed pan back up. Felt okay. Then brought it back down to take a peek - holdjer breath...
The pic is worth a kubazillion words.
Time to re-assemble and fill.
The filter placement comment is a couple of posts ahead there...
Did a dry fit with the cleaned pan, have NOT wiped the tranny case flange. Had to see how well we could get the cleaned lubed gasketed pan back up. Felt okay. Then brought it back down to take a peek - holdjer breath...
The pic is worth a kubazillion words.
Time to re-assemble and fill.
The filter placement comment is a couple of posts ahead there...
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Finish cleanin' first...
The clamp just laughed at the solvent. All I could do was just run the nut up and back the bolt and let it slosh with the pan bolts.
I sprayed the case holes with penetratin' lube till it ran back down, then hit the innerds and the flange with the shop vac to get the gravy and the drippins', and wiped the case flange ...
To get a few more ounces of old juice from the innerds there, pull down on the spring, and roll the actuator back and forth a few times (I'll get a pic of this edited in later)
The clamp just laughed at the solvent. All I could do was just run the nut up and back the bolt and let it slosh with the pan bolts.
I sprayed the case holes with penetratin' lube till it ran back down, then hit the innerds and the flange with the shop vac to get the gravy and the drippins', and wiped the case flange ...
To get a few more ounces of old juice from the innerds there, pull down on the spring, and roll the actuator back and forth a few times (I'll get a pic of this edited in later)
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Get some grease on the flange, even it out by blotting, not smearing, with yer fingers. Get a THIN film in place. If you get too much, put the gasket on upside down, press down lightly all around, remove it, and put it down right side up.
If ya need any more grease on the top surface get a little more on. Spread it again by blotting with yer fingers, this time you're pressing the gasket firmly onto the pan too.
Put the pan up from the passenger side, lookin' to get the driver's side pan flange ABOVE the shifter bracket first, then swing the passenger side to the case.
Have 2 lubed bolts ready, and try to get 'em on opposite sides of the pan. Don't snug 'em yet, so ya' got some room to fish the rest of the bolts into the gasket and case hole (unless yer usin' the cork gasket like goat said, with his trick). I had the neoprene.
This should have been posted earlier...
Also, the original filter 'snout' had a bezel that stayed in the tranny orifice. Leave it there, until you put the new filter in, and if it fits snug, you're good. If it ain't snug, yer gonna have to change the bezel. You don't want the filter to drop into the bottom of the pan.
I see yer post there Pete K. Thanks.
I had an '02 1-ton bowtie, did filter swap 9 times (every 20k). Never took out the first bezel - even different brands were snug fit.
I didn't know that on my '87 L98, and panic'ed like a champ when the new one (with bezel on) didn't fit there...
I suggest tightening with one hand, holding the top of the ratchet, NOT the handle. A leak from a loose pan is a little cheaper fix than a stripped out case hole. I wouldn't even trust a torque wrench on a non-load bearing gig like this.
The clamp I re-used, and got a smear of anti-seize no. 13 with copper on the bolt and washer part.
If ya need any more grease on the top surface get a little more on. Spread it again by blotting with yer fingers, this time you're pressing the gasket firmly onto the pan too.
Put the pan up from the passenger side, lookin' to get the driver's side pan flange ABOVE the shifter bracket first, then swing the passenger side to the case.
Have 2 lubed bolts ready, and try to get 'em on opposite sides of the pan. Don't snug 'em yet, so ya' got some room to fish the rest of the bolts into the gasket and case hole (unless yer usin' the cork gasket like goat said, with his trick). I had the neoprene.
This should have been posted earlier...
Also, the original filter 'snout' had a bezel that stayed in the tranny orifice. Leave it there, until you put the new filter in, and if it fits snug, you're good. If it ain't snug, yer gonna have to change the bezel. You don't want the filter to drop into the bottom of the pan.
I see yer post there Pete K. Thanks.
I had an '02 1-ton bowtie, did filter swap 9 times (every 20k). Never took out the first bezel - even different brands were snug fit.
I didn't know that on my '87 L98, and panic'ed like a champ when the new one (with bezel on) didn't fit there...
I suggest tightening with one hand, holding the top of the ratchet, NOT the handle. A leak from a loose pan is a little cheaper fix than a stripped out case hole. I wouldn't even trust a torque wrench on a non-load bearing gig like this.
The clamp I re-used, and got a smear of anti-seize no. 13 with copper on the bolt and washer part.
Last edited by schrade; Oct 23, 2007 at 11:00 PM.
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I dumped in a bottle of Slick 50 for the tranny (you don't have to use it since you don't like it snow). The Jimmy, also with a 4L60e, hasn't gagged on it since last week's filter change.
Comes out like Jello. I dumped it in first, and then poured the new tranny fluid into the slick 50 bottle and gave it a shake, since half of it was playin' hard to get.
Comes out like Jello. I dumped it in first, and then poured the new tranny fluid into the slick 50 bottle and gave it a shake, since half of it was playin' hard to get.
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Pedal down.
He busted on some posts there, I [almost] made some travel suggestions about a toasty 'resort' (where ya' might need asbestos undies), and some deletions were made.
He busted on some posts there, I [almost] made some travel suggestions about a toasty 'resort' (where ya' might need asbestos undies), and some deletions were made.
Last edited by schrade; Jan 23, 2008 at 01:00 AM.