I must say that having headlights when you need them is a great thing. for a while it was like the lottery to see if they would open or not. I replaced the three bushings in each of the motors and the headlight dont click and shake anymore they open like new :chevy

 

my parts haven't come in yet. Any advice for me?

 

Its best to reference mark the frame of the headlight assembly with a erasable marker, On a couple surfaces then remove the whole assembly from the car and place it on a clean towel on a bench. Make sure you have a good pin punch I cant remember what size it actually is cause I just used one out of my set. Clean out all the old plastic particles and replace with new bushings and grease. It was not really all that difficult. locating the assemblies once replaced in the car calls for some careful work to prevent chipping any paint I used masking tape to protect edges.


[Modified by CorvetteCoupe93, 10:54 PM 11/16/2001]

 

This is the biggest pain in the but on my car right now. Its getting too cold to play the loto, and end up pulling them up by hand. artscorvetteparts.com (great prices and service BTW) said to use ball baring he has with grease for about $5 I think, and its better than the plastic replacement stuff which is some cases is worse than the OEM according to him? Any ideas?

 

Really I dont think replacing the bushings with some other type of material such as a bearing is a good idea, Because really the way the gear drive assembly is designed it has a certain amount of cushion with the bushings. Not to mention if the assembly were to get jammed the bushings would give much more than a metal bearing would. With the result being bent or broken parts. If I can be of any more help let me know. Thanks Bradley

Your gear assemblies might use bearings instead of bushings but I would not substitute one for the other
[Modified by CorvetteCoupe93, 8:51 AM 11/17/2001]


[Modified by CorvetteCoupe93, 8:54 AM 11/17/2001]

 

Its surprising how easy replacing the bushings is. And to think, people are paying hundred's of dolalrs for someone else to "rebuild" them for them!

 

I wish I could fix mine, but I need some pictures. Anyone have step by step pictures of this>?

 

Some sage advice from someone who has pulled the headlight 3 times in the past 2 weeks. First, use the plastic replacement bushings. Two, mark with pencil like was previously mentioned. Three, have a 1/4 drive #25 torx bit with an extension. Four, to get to the hidden torx bolt under the motor/gearbox so that you can loosen the frame assembly enough to get to the bottom torx bolt of the motor/gearbox. You need to rotate the manual headlight opening ****, so that the shiny silver rectangular bar of aluminum, that has the pin in it, will be vertical and not horizontal. Then the 1/4 drive #25 torx bit with an extension will fit to loosen the bottom frame up. You will most likely snap off the small bolt head that attaches the motor to the gear box. (common problem). You will need to drill out the remaining portion of the bolt, and buy a small nut and elastic stop nut from the hardware store that will fit your new small hole. When removing the motor from the gear box, you will notice that 2 small springs will jump out that hold the brushes in. Hold them back in place when reassembling with really small guage wire attached to the brushes. Don't loose that small ball bearing on the end of the motor screw. I thought it didnt matter (it is for the adjustment bolt at end of gear box), it matters alot. DO NOT drop or loose any washers, there are as many as 3 shims in between the gear box and that aluminumn rectangle box with pin in. If you leave those washers out, the whole unit will bind and freeze half way open. Third time was a charm. I can do one head light gear change now in one hour. :crazy: