I just got a 94 and will be putting a paxton on it next year but want to know what I should do for mods before I put it on? I will be bilding the car for the blower before it gose on and want the car to last after it is done (well done for now LOL) I think that I might need to do some valve springs and a cam mybe. what about the trans or rear end ? should I wait and rebuild the motor with less compresion and a stroker? the car has 75k on it. thanks for any info.

 

How much do you have to spend?

 

I have 3500.00 set aside for pre mods.

 

If I were you I would do full exhaust,cam,rockers,intake, and gears. Thats provided you do the work.

 

work is always done by me. well all bolt on stuff. the things you said are doable by me. I have been looking at the new thumper cams and was going to put one on my list.

 

For $3500 you can do a lot. I would reccomend some forged pistons. Maybe lower your compression with dished forged pistons. Also go to www.blowerworks.com and read everything there especially about tunning, and preventing detonation. Good luck

 

here is a list of things i did to my 94 corvette greg from blowerworks helped out along the way so DEFINATLEY give him a call
ORIGINAL MOTOR STROKED TO 383 CU.IN
FORGED ROTATING ASSEMBLY WITH 9 ½ COMPRESSION
COMP CAM BLOWER ROLLERCAM CRANE 1.6 ROLLER ROCKERS
PORT POLISHISHED AND BENCHED FLOW HEADS MANLEY VALVES
Lt-4 INTAKE MANIFOLD PORT MATCHED AND POLISHED
BBK 58 MM THROTTLEBODY
VORTECH S TRIM SUPERCHARGER POLISHED
UPGRADED PULLEY MODIFIED AIR VALUTE
GASEOUS “ALKY” INTERCOOLING
DUAL WALBRO FUEL SYSTEM INTANK AND INLINE
42 LBS HIGH FLOW FUEL INJECTORS
CRANE IGNITION W/ TIMING BOOST CONTROLLER
MSD IGNITION COIL MSD 8. 5 MM WIRES
AUTOMETER BOOST AND FUEL PRESSURE GAUGES
MANUAL FAN CONTROLER
TPIS LONG TUBE HEADERS 1 ¾ HEAT COATED
3 INCH EXHAUST X PIPE MAGNAFLOW MUFFLERS
LEVEL 10 PTS 4L60E TRANSMISSION 2800 STALL CONVERTOR
DANA 44 UPGRADED REAR W/ 354 GEARS
HEAVYDUTY REAR SPRING BILSTEIN SHOCKS
EXTENSIVE DYNO TUNING 496 RWHP 540 TORQUE ( CONSERVATIVE #’S)
this set up got my car into the 10'2

 

I'm very amatuer to FI, but I'd seriously think you'ld want to upgrade your tranny/diff to handle the increase.

 

Id save as much as you could for the SC unit, just adding a cam and rockers to the LT1 and youll be disappointed for the money and time spent.

 

I guess the answer really depends on what the end goal is. What do you plan to do with the car once the blower is on? Street only, street/drags, race only? Is it an auto or 6-speed? Using drag radials or sticky street tires? Slicks? Summer only or winter too? Daily driver? What are the emission requirements in your state, make sure you can pass those.

Valve springs is a good idea. If you switch cams ask the SC manufacturer to recommend a cam. Cam selection is critical since what works for a NA motor may not be the best for a forced induction motor. For an automatic, freshening the tranny would be on my list. Bette friction plates to handle the torque and a new torque converter with anti-balloning plates. The rear-end should be good for a while unless you use real sticky tires and do numerous drag strip style launches.

Later ... Larry S.

 

$3,500.00 isn't much, even if you do all the work yourself. Say for instance you wanted to add forged pistons. The engine block needs to get bored out to make the cylinders perfectly round again, and this should be done by a shop that uses torque plates. We always have the engine rotating assemblies balanced and the block align bored. Expect to pay $800.00 or so for machine shop labor. Good forged pistons and rods for our late model LS1 engines are another $1,200. LT1's may be less. New camshaft, oil pump, gaskets, piston rings, valve job, all add up to consume the $3,500.00 real fast. The LT1 is also known for eating Optispark distributors. We fought this last year on a 383 we built for a '94 Corvette, that we installed an ATI ProCharger D-1SC on. First of all, if the water pump goes bad on you, it quickly kills the distributor. Expect to pay $300.00 or so for a new water pump. We tried new GM Optispark's, MSD, Accel, Napa, all would disintegrate the distributor rotor. There are quite a few post on LS1tech about this happening to other people with LT1 engines once they are making a lot of power. We ended up trying the $600+ Dynaspark, which took care of all our problems. For some reason we have never had problems with our '95 Formula LT1 (http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...tCar.php?car=7) that we have an ATI ProCharger P-1SC on, but then it isn't making the power this 383 is in the '94 Corvette. Bob