O2 sensor replacement
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
O2 sensor replacement
In any case, the FSM says that I might have to loosen the exhaust to get to the O2 sensor.
I don't try to crawl under the car too often so before I do, does anyone know if this is the case? Is this something that I should best leave to the mechanic?
I also forgot to ask the mechanic whether it was the left or right, forward or rear sensor that was bad. Anyway of detecting that without the OBDII reader?
I don't try to crawl under the car too often so before I do, does anyone know if this is the case? Is this something that I should best leave to the mechanic?
I also forgot to ask the mechanic whether it was the left or right, forward or rear sensor that was bad. Anyway of detecting that without the OBDII reader?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 6,130
Likes: 2
From: seattle WA
Needs to be on a scanner to determine which is bad. Can't speak for your year regarding removal, but I haven't heard anyone on the forum saying you need to drop the exhaust. My 87 only has one, and I removed it easily without having to warm up the engine. So if you do decide to do it yourself, try it cold first (no burns).
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Wellington Fl
Barry,
I have a 96 also and have just replaced the cats and O2's, althought you maybe able to get a wrench on the sensors without dropping the exhaust you won't be able to get to the terminal connections.
It really isn't too bad of a job to drop the exhaust the hardest part for me was getting the bolts and studs loose on the cat brackets.
I would also suggest that if you have one bad sensor odds are the other three are going to be coming up soon so you might as well replace them all while you are at it and everything is accessible.
I have a 96 also and have just replaced the cats and O2's, althought you maybe able to get a wrench on the sensors without dropping the exhaust you won't be able to get to the terminal connections.
It really isn't too bad of a job to drop the exhaust the hardest part for me was getting the bolts and studs loose on the cat brackets.
I would also suggest that if you have one bad sensor odds are the other three are going to be coming up soon so you might as well replace them all while you are at it and everything is accessible.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
Did you do it on a lift or have it jacked up? I don't have a lift available to me?
I was guessing the that exhaust bolts would be corroded over and difficult to loosen.
I was guessing the that exhaust bolts would be corroded over and difficult to loosen.
Barry,
I have a 96 also and have just replaced the cats and O2's, althought you maybe able to get a wrench on the sensors without dropping the exhaust you won't be able to get to the terminal connections.
It really isn't too bad of a job to drop the exhaust the hardest part for me was getting the bolts and studs loose on the cat brackets.
I would also suggest that if you have one bad sensor odds are the other three are going to be coming up soon so you might as well replace them all while you are at it and everything is accessible.
I have a 96 also and have just replaced the cats and O2's, althought you maybe able to get a wrench on the sensors without dropping the exhaust you won't be able to get to the terminal connections.
It really isn't too bad of a job to drop the exhaust the hardest part for me was getting the bolts and studs loose on the cat brackets.
I would also suggest that if you have one bad sensor odds are the other three are going to be coming up soon so you might as well replace them all while you are at it and everything is accessible.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 18
From: Los Angeles California
Oh god, don't screw with the exhaust. It's a lot harder to remove than it sounds, at least when trying to access it the way I did.
You don't have to move anything to get the O2 sensors off, it's just a pain in the butt to reach them and you have to use a crow's foot socket rather awkwardly from beneath the car, but they do come off. Use safe jacking procedures (use jack stands, and have a backup in case they tip) or you will probably die during this.
Go to autozone and they will scan your codes for free. This will tell you which sensor is bad. I would not bother replacing any others as these are very expensive. If the rear ones get old, it doesn't even really matter until they throw a code; all they do is monitor the cats, and contribute slightly to fuel trim values.
Do go to multiple places to get O2 sensor prices because I have seen them go for $40 all the way up to $80 each.
You don't have to move anything to get the O2 sensors off, it's just a pain in the butt to reach them and you have to use a crow's foot socket rather awkwardly from beneath the car, but they do come off. Use safe jacking procedures (use jack stands, and have a backup in case they tip) or you will probably die during this.
Go to autozone and they will scan your codes for free. This will tell you which sensor is bad. I would not bother replacing any others as these are very expensive. If the rear ones get old, it doesn't even really matter until they throw a code; all they do is monitor the cats, and contribute slightly to fuel trim values.
Do go to multiple places to get O2 sensor prices because I have seen them go for $40 all the way up to $80 each.
Last edited by LouisvilleLT4; Nov 11, 2007 at 11:47 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Wellington Fl
Barry,
I used jack stands, and I was really suprised at how easy all the nuts and bolts came off, just a shot of WD40 and let them set and everything broke loose and backed right off.
I still don't see how you can get to the electrical connectors on at least two of the four sensors without at least dropping part of the exhaust down. But that's just my opinion.
I used jack stands, and I was really suprised at how easy all the nuts and bolts came off, just a shot of WD40 and let them set and everything broke loose and backed right off.
I still don't see how you can get to the electrical connectors on at least two of the four sensors without at least dropping part of the exhaust down. But that's just my opinion.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
Light went off!
I didn't get to it this weekend and tonight the light is not on
Can an O2 sensor be 'flakey' like that? Even still, I thought it would take many engine starts to clear the light if things started registering properly and I probably only had abut 5.
Can an O2 sensor be 'flakey' like that? Even still, I thought it would take many engine starts to clear the light if things started registering properly and I probably only had abut 5.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Wellington Fl
Barry,
According to the FSM the malfunction indicator lamp will be turned off after three consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and does not fail, however it will take forty consecutive drive trips to clear the history DTC.
Good luck
According to the FSM the malfunction indicator lamp will be turned off after three consecutive drive trips that the diagnostic runs and does not fail, however it will take forty consecutive drive trips to clear the history DTC.
Good luck
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
Does the FSM define "drive trip"?
What's troubling too is that the DTC's are all clear - at least on the internal diags using the shorting pin method.
I think the light went on soon after a gas fill up. Hmmm.
What's troubling too is that the DTC's are all clear - at least on the internal diags using the shorting pin method.
I think the light went on soon after a gas fill up. Hmmm.