adding a supercharger down the road...?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 1
From: Marietta Pa
St. Jude Donor '10-'11-'12-'13-'14
adding a supercharger down the road...?
So here's what my winter mods are:
AFR 190V CNC-ported heads
Comp Cams 503 grind
Superram
Right now I have a freshly rebuilt Jasper motor with a cast crank, and hypertenuic "speed-pro" pistons.
What I was wondering is if in the future, I decide to go with a supercharger, will that cam (224/230 at .050, .54x/.55x lift, 112LSA) will work well with a blower?
Also, how much do you think the bottom end can take? It has 4 bolt mains, but doesn't have forged internals, just cast/hypertenuic.
Thanks.
-Dave
AFR 190V CNC-ported heads
Comp Cams 503 grind
Superram
Right now I have a freshly rebuilt Jasper motor with a cast crank, and hypertenuic "speed-pro" pistons.
What I was wondering is if in the future, I decide to go with a supercharger, will that cam (224/230 at .050, .54x/.55x lift, 112LSA) will work well with a blower?
Also, how much do you think the bottom end can take? It has 4 bolt mains, but doesn't have forged internals, just cast/hypertenuic.
Thanks.
-Dave
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Woodland California
With lower compression you can push more boost before causing detonation. Detonation must be avoided or you will brake your pistons. Go to www.blowerworks.com and read all of their info on supercharging and tuning. I don't think your cam numbers matter much except that the supercharger magnifys your power, so a higher HP motor will benifit more than a lower HP motor from bost. My LT4 procharger kit came with a 4 1/2 lb. pully. 
Pro
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 545
Likes: 2
From: st albert alberta
hypereutectic piston and boost are a bad mix especially with the compression ratio you have .get detonation a few times and guaranteed you will break a piston those pistons are known to start cracking, then they fail.if your going to put a s/c on keep your compression ratio between 8.5-9.0 to1 max.build it right the first time ,trust me i done the same thing and it ended up costing me 3x more money then if i would of if i built it right the first time.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
I agree, forged pistons, and lower that compression ratio.
If you are doing a stroker the cheapest and easiest way to get the lower compression is to keep big combustion chambers in your heads. If you are ordering the AFR heads then make sure you get big combustion chambers with them.
If you lower your compression ratio from 10:1 to 9:1 you aren't going to loose much horsepower and you will be much better off for when you add a supercharger.
If you are doing a stroker the cheapest and easiest way to get the lower compression is to keep big combustion chambers in your heads. If you are ordering the AFR heads then make sure you get big combustion chambers with them.
If you lower your compression ratio from 10:1 to 9:1 you aren't going to loose much horsepower and you will be much better off for when you add a supercharger.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 197
Likes: 0
From: Woodland California
I agree, forged pistons, and lower that compression ratio.
If you are doing a stroker the cheapest and easiest way to get the lower compression is to keep big combustion chambers in your heads. If you are ordering the AFR heads then make sure you get big combustion chambers with them.
If you lower your compression ratio from 10:1 to 9:1 you aren't going to loose much horsepower and you will be much better off for when you add a supercharger.
If you are doing a stroker the cheapest and easiest way to get the lower compression is to keep big combustion chambers in your heads. If you are ordering the AFR heads then make sure you get big combustion chambers with them.
If you lower your compression ratio from 10:1 to 9:1 you aren't going to loose much horsepower and you will be much better off for when you add a supercharger.
Forged pistons are some insurance, but with detonation they will fail also.However, if you have a low milage, or recently rebuilt motor, you can take out the stock pistons, and install dished forged pistons (JE), and lower the compresson for a much lower cost than buying larger chamber heads. You can do both and lower an LT4 from 10.8 to 8.3. Reguardless of what you do, detonation is your enemy.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,061
Likes: 99
From: Seattle WA
That cam will also have quite a bit of overlap for a blower. With positive manifold pressure, you don't want the intake and exhaust valves hanging open too long of you'll blow some unburned charge straight through. However, running a cam like that lowers your dynamic CR (and also lowers effective boost) which will allow you to run a higher static CR. It's not ideal, though, for making the best power.
Get forged pistons, good rods (cast crank is OK), lower the CR to ~9:1 or less, and I'd choose a cam with a duration <220 on a 114 or greater LSA for better efficiency.
The LSx guys can get away with running boost at higher compression because the engine management and combustion chamber design are so much better than the good 'ole L98.
Get forged pistons, good rods (cast crank is OK), lower the CR to ~9:1 or less, and I'd choose a cam with a duration <220 on a 114 or greater LSA for better efficiency.
The LSx guys can get away with running boost at higher compression because the engine management and combustion chamber design are so much better than the good 'ole L98.
