C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Possible VATS problem

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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 07:03 AM
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Default Possible VATS problem

Seems like a lot of VATS problems across the forum. Are we stuck with this system or can it be bypassed or removed from an 89? How do you make this happen?
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 07:18 AM
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I recommend repairing it, so your cars stays where you left it.
They are simple to repair, like anything else on a C4.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 07:56 AM
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http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=3.862
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 07:57 AM
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www.vatssucks.com

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette-1-0-6220.html Regardless if you keep vats or get another system, this is a good device to help keep your car from being stolen with a punctured battery.


http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=1.862 Bypass Option #1

http://www.mamotorworks.com/corvette?frame=1.863 Bypass Option #2

Last edited by Nzzz; Nov 11, 2007 at 08:04 AM. Reason: added links
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 08:26 AM
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the vats can easily be bypassed once you know the resistance of the pellet in the key. i rigged mine with a switch so that i can bypass the vats when in familiar areas and have it engaged when not.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 11:32 AM
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Use the search function, I have typed how to test for VATS defects over 300 times. 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition and VATS prevents this type of theft. Keep your car in good repair. I read here, angry C4 owners not dealing with the problem and getting more and more upset when their car won't crank. Fix it! If you take care of your car, your car will take care of you!
If you want, I'll type how to find VATS problems again.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 05:11 PM
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Any help would be appreciated.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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I used 601-116 bypass from Mid America. Simple 15 minute plug and play. You will need your key code.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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1st step is to bypass the ignition cylinder with the proper resistor. Once that solves the problem, you can leave it bypassed, or replace the ignition cyclinder.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by the blur
1st step is to bypass the ignition cylinder with the proper resistor. Once that solves the problem, you can leave it bypassed, or replace the ignition cylinder.
why would he need to replace the ignition lock cylinder when it is a bypass he possibly needs to do? there is no mention of a defective ignition cylinder or difficulty in turning the key. he needs to incorporate a resistance commensurate with his key pellet and install that "in the line" and rig a switch if he cares to as i previously mentioned to "maintain theft security".
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
I used 601-116 bypass from Mid America. Simple 15 minute plug and play. You will need your key code.


That's what I did with mine. No more problems. FWIW, the alarm still functions with VATS bypassed this way so if someone breaks into your car, the horn still sounds and headlights still flash on and off so you're not totally without a security system if you're worried about that. I'm not.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:41 PM
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Because the most common failure is an intermittent VATs wire at the lock cylinder. So you bypass it with a resistor as a test, and then replace the lock cylinder at a later date to restore the VATs security to protect the car.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by the blur
Because the most common failure is an intermittent VATs wire at the lock cylinder. So you bypass it with a resistor as a test, and then replace the lock cylinder at a later date to restore the VATs security to protect the car.
i disagree (in part). it is doubtfull that there is a "loose wire" at or behind the lock cylinder unless he has taken the steering colum apart or similar. he mentioned no problem with the cylinder. there is a rod that travels down the length of the steering column that "meshes" with the ignition electrical switch mounted on the top of the column under the hush panel. that is the part that either becomes loose and won't engage properly or burns up (so-to-speak). the mechanical aspects of the ignition cylinder have little if nothing to do with shutting down the fuel pump, starter, etc, that is the vats' job. the vats must see a resistance at it's "connector" to make the car functional.

Last edited by badabing9; Nov 11, 2007 at 06:51 PM.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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that may be dependant on the year.
Time for OP to open a FSM.
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by the blur
that may be dependant on the year.
Time for OP to open a FSM.
grin
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Old Nov 11, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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OK price1314, here goes.
When it won't crank, unplug the clutch safety switch (gear selector sw at base of gear shift if automatic) and jump the socket. Measure the voltage on the jumper to ground when you hit crank position. If you have 12v and no cranking, you have a defective battery, poor battery cable connections, or a defective starter. You can jump 12v to the safety sw jumper and the starter should crank proving the starter is ok. If you don't have 12v, then remove the kick panel above the drivers feet and find the 2 wires from behind the steering column that goes to a 2 pin connector and unplug. Insert key in ign sw and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same as the key pellet and if more than about 4% different or higher than 13k ohms, you have worn contacts in the ign lock and you need to replace the lock. The new lock will have new contacts that make connection to the pellet in your ign key. You can bypass VATS temporarily until you can schedule the lock replacement by connecting a fixed resistor across the 2 pin socket out of the wiring harness the same value as your pellet. You can use a 1/4 watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack, but the value must be within about 4% of the pellet resistance.
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Old Nov 12, 2007 | 08:47 AM
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Thanks everyone for the responses. I believe I have some work to do. Have a good one.
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