Budget blower build up started.
Team Owner
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From: Damn taxes! Pimpin' Ain't Easy in Massachusetts
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'08-'09
Well when the engine lets go during a race you very well may be buying things like cylinder heads, block, and a camshaft. If you don't mind spending that kind of money when it destroys itself why not spend it now? There's also a difference between slapping some little blower on a kids old Z28 he drives to work and putting one on a high mileage, already raced engine to go RACE... Working on race car engines for years has taught me the areas that you can skimp on and ones that you can't...I have to say you are doing this backwards. Just my .02
Hey Brian, since you're tearing this down to bare bones anyway why not send the engine out for a freshening-up?
Hell you're into this build quite a bit money wise.
Talk to Rick White over at Explicit Racing, I just had my engine sent out for a new set of lower compression pistons and they do amazing work......and they are very reasonable.
Le Mans Master
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From: E. Amherst NY
Well when the engine lets go during a race you very well may be buying things like cylinder heads, block, and a camshaft. If you don't mind spending that kind of money when it destroys itself why not spend it now? There's also a difference between slapping some little blower on a kids old Z28 he drives to work and putting one on a high mileage, already raced engine to go RACE... Working on race car engines for years has taught me the areas that you can skimp on and ones that you can't...I have to say you are doing this backwards. Just my .02
It seems rather risky to throw all those new parts, on an 140k shortblock. The tight tolerances just aren't there any more.
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Team Owner
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I may do it for another reason.
I'm a contractor, I don't want to get this thing halfway torn apart, only to get called out on a contract. If I leave it together, when I get the call I can drop off the car and my parts to SloRvette, and let him have at it. It's not like I'll be driving it while I'm away.
Right now I'm fighting an oil leak. I blew a seal up at NHMS, one of the three on the front cover. I'm betting on the mechanical drive for the WP which I left in when I put the Electric WP on. It's OK for the street, I just can't race it anymore till it's fixed. Since I need to tear it down anyways...
I'm a contractor, I don't want to get this thing halfway torn apart, only to get called out on a contract. If I leave it together, when I get the call I can drop off the car and my parts to SloRvette, and let him have at it. It's not like I'll be driving it while I'm away.
Right now I'm fighting an oil leak. I blew a seal up at NHMS, one of the three on the front cover. I'm betting on the mechanical drive for the WP which I left in when I put the Electric WP on. It's OK for the street, I just can't race it anymore till it's fixed. Since I need to tear it down anyways...
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Oct 3, 2008 at 04:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,856
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Guys,
I just got off the phone with my builder.
I misunderstood him
He was talking about putting the blower on or heads & cam not both
I'd just like to publicly appologize to him for misunderstanding.
I'm just glad he's still interested in doing this project.
So, looks like I'll be doing a shortbock.
I just got off the phone with my builder.
I misunderstood him
He was talking about putting the blower on or heads & cam not both
I'd just like to publicly appologize to him for misunderstanding.
I'm just glad he's still interested in doing this project.
So, looks like I'll be doing a shortbock.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
It turns out a stock LT1 intake will work with the new AFR's
So I'm just going to use the spare one I have
So I'm just going to use the spare one I have
Brian,
Here is the pic from Nolands engine thread.
This is a Fel Pro stock replacement LT1 gasket (PN1284) up to his AFR 195 Comp Ports . I actually used this Fel Pro LT1 gasket (added just <.060 to the roof) to port match his LT4 intake and when we put it on the motor the port alignment was perfect.
We then put the GM "LT4 Off Road" gasket (777) up to them to show the difference.
Now in the end since Noland had an LT4 intake which has more sealing surface above the intake port I just used the GM LT4 777 gasket for assy. It expidited assy (no gasket trimming) and Noland didn't seem to keen on me taking a pocket knife to his brand new gaskets if I didn't have to...
Another option is SCE, which has a few different LTX gaskets (that have different port heights) and you could get one that didn't require any trimming on the 195's. I had to go with SCE intake gaskets on my 210's.
Reguardless LT1 intake and gaskets on the 195 Comp Ports is easily done.
Will
Here is the pic from Nolands engine thread.
This is a Fel Pro stock replacement LT1 gasket (PN1284) up to his AFR 195 Comp Ports . I actually used this Fel Pro LT1 gasket (added just <.060 to the roof) to port match his LT4 intake and when we put it on the motor the port alignment was perfect.
We then put the GM "LT4 Off Road" gasket (777) up to them to show the difference.
Now in the end since Noland had an LT4 intake which has more sealing surface above the intake port I just used the GM LT4 777 gasket for assy. It expidited assy (no gasket trimming) and Noland didn't seem to keen on me taking a pocket knife to his brand new gaskets if I didn't have to...
Another option is SCE, which has a few different LTX gaskets (that have different port heights) and you could get one that didn't require any trimming on the 195's. I had to go with SCE intake gaskets on my 210's.
Reguardless LT1 intake and gaskets on the 195 Comp Ports is easily done.
Will
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Nothing as of yet.
My last client had a heart attack when I told him the cost of what he needed to do what he wanted.
I'll pickup a stock gasket next week and double check.
My last client had a heart attack when I told him the cost of what he needed to do what he wanted.
I'll pickup a stock gasket next week and double check.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Well I just made by shortblock builder happy.
I got the final specs for my engine, so I just gave him my credit card #
Going with a 9:1 compression, which may seem a little low, but my tuner thinks I may max out the S-trim, so that will leave me room to send it back and have it rebuilt as a T-trim.
Going with a 5.7 rod, and not a 6, for the dwell time at the top.
I am going with an internal balance on this, so a zero balance flywheel.
With that in mind I'm getting the McLeod street twin clutch with the detachable weights.
It will be a custom Nitrous/Blower cam 220/236 duration.
Here's the shop I'm using, thanks to Cuisinartvette for finding it.
http://qmpracing.com/
I got the final specs for my engine, so I just gave him my credit card #
Going with a 9:1 compression, which may seem a little low, but my tuner thinks I may max out the S-trim, so that will leave me room to send it back and have it rebuilt as a T-trim.
Going with a 5.7 rod, and not a 6, for the dwell time at the top.
I am going with an internal balance on this, so a zero balance flywheel.
With that in mind I'm getting the McLeod street twin clutch with the detachable weights.
It will be a custom Nitrous/Blower cam 220/236 duration.
Here's the shop I'm using, thanks to Cuisinartvette for finding it.
http://qmpracing.com/
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I got some pics from my machinist of the block being worked on.
-----Original Message-----
From: brad <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 3:46 pm
Subject: Re: LT1 383 shortblock for a blower
Hey brian
i am working on a new program for the main caps on your block
instead of using a stepped cap like everyone else
i want to use a flat cap that way you would get a better register in the block
its taking a little longer than i expected but the result will be far greater
Thanks
Brad
From: brad <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 30 Mar 2009 3:46 pm
Subject: Re: LT1 383 shortblock for a blower
Hey brian
i am working on a new program for the main caps on your block
instead of using a stepped cap like everyone else
i want to use a flat cap that way you would get a better register in the block
its taking a little longer than i expected but the result will be far greater
Thanks
Brad
Le Mans Master
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From: Metairie Louisiana
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,856
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
SCAT, and yes I've having him check the crank for the errors you found, thanks for the alert.
I guess the parts are forged overseas but they're machined in SoCal.
I guess the parts are forged overseas but they're machined in SoCal.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
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From: Texas
Be sure to check your rod/block clearance, especially if you're going with I beams with bolts or regular H beams. I have the SCAT Q-lite H beams in my build and had no issues.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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Posts: 30,856
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
More info
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 6:38 pm
Subject: RE: They want to know how long to build a motor
Hey Brian
I decided to machine another 3/16 key in the crank 180 deg from the orig
This way you have 2 keys holding that hub
That will be much stonger that way especially in a boost situation
Thanks
Brad
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 6:38 pm
Subject: RE: They want to know how long to build a motor
Hey Brian
I decided to machine another 3/16 key in the crank 180 deg from the orig
This way you have 2 keys holding that hub
That will be much stonger that way especially in a boost situation
Thanks
Brad
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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Posts: 30,856
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Shortblock's done!
BTW normally you hit the water jackets when you do his he didn't
Drainbacks for the AFR's
EDIT:
BTW He couldn't make the S.C.A.T. crank balance with the 5.7 rods so he went ahead an upgraded me to a Lunati crank no charge.
You can see the heavy metal it took to balance it.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 5:17 pm
Subject: Engine
Hey Brian
Thanks for your business!
This engine came out really good I think you will like it
I was explaining the whole main cap issue with you
When people normally convert a 2-bolt block to a 4-bolt they normally use a stepped cap to fit in the stock 2-bolt registers
The problem with that is you have to have a .002-.005 air gap under the ends where the extra bolts go through so you are definitely
Flexing the cap the way we do it is that we machine a whole new register in the block so you have the bottom of the main cap completely flat now you have full contact with the block not just the step.
This way is harder to do (if you do not have a cnc machine) that’s why most shops use the step cap they just bolt them on and drill it with a drill bushing and tap it. I am not knocking that way, hell I used to do the same thing. Now we have a better way of doing it so we pass that on to our customers. Our shop is outfitted with the latest in machinery. I pride myself in having the best equipment available. So we can build a better engine for you.
Thanks again
Brad
From: Brad Lagman <brad@qmpracing.com>
To: swiftwood@aol.com
Sent: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 5:17 pm
Subject: Engine
Hey Brian
Thanks for your business!
This engine came out really good I think you will like it
I was explaining the whole main cap issue with you
When people normally convert a 2-bolt block to a 4-bolt they normally use a stepped cap to fit in the stock 2-bolt registers
The problem with that is you have to have a .002-.005 air gap under the ends where the extra bolts go through so you are definitely
Flexing the cap the way we do it is that we machine a whole new register in the block so you have the bottom of the main cap completely flat now you have full contact with the block not just the step.
This way is harder to do (if you do not have a cnc machine) that’s why most shops use the step cap they just bolt them on and drill it with a drill bushing and tap it. I am not knocking that way, hell I used to do the same thing. Now we have a better way of doing it so we pass that on to our customers. Our shop is outfitted with the latest in machinery. I pride myself in having the best equipment available. So we can build a better engine for you.
Thanks again
Brad
Drainbacks for the AFR's
EDIT:
BTW He couldn't make the S.C.A.T. crank balance with the 5.7 rods so he went ahead an upgraded me to a Lunati crank no charge.
You can see the heavy metal it took to balance it.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Apr 26, 2009 at 11:06 PM.