LT1 Motor Hoist point

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Nov 16, 2007 | 09:50 AM

jsquared94

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Drifting

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From: Rome NY

LT1 Motor Hoist point

Folks,

I'm going to be yanking my LT1 out of my wrecked 94 this weekend. The motor is currently intact, and I have no plans of doing any work on it. My question is this: where is the best point on the motor to lift it with my engine hoist? I don't have the head or intake off, so threading a bolt into one of those holes is out. Is there a lift point that can support the weight of the motor and tranny? Should I wrap chains around the block?

Thanks in advance for ideas!
Jared

Nov 16, 2007 | 10:44 AM

bogus

Team Owner

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From: San Pedro CA

on the corners, there are bolts that attach on top of bolts at the studs. That should be ok for lifting. I have used the same area on the L98 without any issue.

Nov 16, 2007 | 10:49 AM

96GS#007

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From: Texas

The top...with a Happy Hooker

(black thing on top of the intake)

Nov 16, 2007 | 11:44 AM

jsquared94

Thread Starter

Drifting

Joined: Mar 2002

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From: Rome NY

Bogus, on what corners and what bolts?

G6GS- the "happy hooker" thing just bolts to the intake? I don't recall any bolts for it to mount to... does it somehow clamp to something? Any chance I can weld one up easily? Is there a chance of it tearing any weak aluminum?

Thanks, guys!
Jared

Nov 16, 2007 | 12:50 PM

jakers

Melting Slicks

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From: Midland Georgia

St. Jude Donor '06

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96GS#007

The top...with a Happy Hooker

(black thing on top of the intake)

Looks a little scary to me!

Yeah it works... but watch your toes!

Nov 16, 2007 | 12:54 PM

96GS#007

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsquared94

Bolts to the intake. The bolts go into the the holes used by the fuel rail bolts. Doesn't clamp to anything. I've pulled several LTx engines with it and so have other people I know. It's sold by TPIS for ~$50

I suppose there's always a chance of "tearing" aluminum but I'd call it unlikely and have never heard of anyone having done that.

I'm sure one can be welded up...It's just a flat plate with holes and a hook...but do so at your own risk.

Nov 16, 2007 | 12:56 PM

96GS#007

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by jakers

Looks a little scary to me!

Yeah it works... but watch your toes!

Btw...It's no different than pulling a carb'ed engine with a plate & hook in place of the carb. Been done for years. Done it personally with many iron-head/aluminum intake BBC.

Nov 16, 2007 | 01:19 PM

aboatguy

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From: Slidell Louisiana

Quote:

Originally Posted by 96GS#007

Btw...It's no different than pulling a carb'ed engine with a plate & hook in place of the carb. Been done for years. Done it personally with many iron-head/aluminum intake BBC.

Another satisfied hooker user!!!!

Last edited by aboatguy; Nov 16, 2007 at 01:25 PM.

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Nov 16, 2007 | 01:33 PM

jsquared94

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Drifting

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From: Rome NY

Ok, so I will try to weld one up this weekend. I have to remove the fuel rails though, correct? I wonder if I could simply put a nylon tow strap around the block, and snake it through the exhaust manifold pipes...

I have NO front at all on the car- the only thing left is the frame, motor, plastic climate blower box, and A-arms. As soon as I get the motor out I'm pulling the transmission off and bolting the motor to an engine stand, and there it will sit until I find something to stick it in! ;-)

Last edited by jsquared94; Nov 16, 2007 at 01:36 PM.

Nov 16, 2007 | 01:45 PM

#10

aboatguy

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From: Slidell Louisiana

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsquared94

Yes you have to remove the fuel rails.

Nov 16, 2007 | 02:57 PM

#11

96GS#007

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From: Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsquared94

Fuel Rails....4 bolts, 8 electrical connectors, couple vacuum lines. Free the fuel rail/injector assembly from intake and lay on windshield. Takes at least 5 minutes if you go slow and think about it.

If there's no front end at all, then I would leave the tranny attached and yank it all our at once. Lower to the ground with support as appropriate and remove the tranny.

I would *NOT* use your tow strap idea. Even if you're only pulling the engine, a strap wrapped around the engine is not going to provide any sort of balance. Trying to get it centered would be a royal PIA. Then, depending on how much slack there is in the tow strap you risk the engine tilting and falling or damaging the manifolds when 500+ pounds of engine decides it'd be more comfortable tilted aft or forward. You run a good chance of being a poster child for what happens when people decide to take a shortcut but end up spending more time in the long run versus just doing it right to begin with.

Last edited by 96GS#007; Nov 16, 2007 at 07:39 PM.

Nov 16, 2007 | 03:13 PM

#12

jsquared94

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Drifting

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From: Rome NY

True, but that would be pretty funny! I've always wanted to be a poster child for something!

Yeah, I guess you guys are correct and I should take the time to do it right-er by at least welding up a hooker plate.

Jared

Nov 17, 2007 | 03:30 AM

#13

bogus

Team Owner

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From: San Pedro CA

I need to get me one of them things.

Nov 17, 2007 | 09:44 AM

#14

LTxDave

Safety Car

Joined: Jul 1999

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From: Marianna FL

Just use one of the bolt holes for the accessories on face of one head and the same hole on the rear of the other head. That is what I did and did not have a problem with it.

Nov 17, 2007 | 09:46 AM

#15

Strick

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From: Lake Wylie SC

Just thinking here, but I thought that "Hooker" is designed for just lifting the engine and not the tranny, too.

Nov 17, 2007 | 11:43 PM

#16

jsquared94

Thread Starter

Drifting

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From: Rome NY

Job complete! I unbolted the fuel rails and threaded those bolts through a 3 foot section of chain, making sure to leave some slack to lift. I then joined the two "sides" with a chain shackle and lifted away! You guys were right- the fuel rails are the place to lift! I only broke one sensor on the back of the motor, and scuffed the shifter **** some (I was lazy and left the shifter in place).

Thanks for the help!
Jared