[LOW COOLANT]: The Light Is On, best flush method?
#1
Team Owner
Thread Starter
[LOW COOLANT]: The Light Is On, best flush method?
Ok well, I have this "phantom" Low Coolant light that comes on now. It comes on, goes on...... stays on for a while, stays off for a few days.
I have checked the system and it appears to be full. There is fluid right at the radiator cap and under pressure when hot. The overflow tank is also where it should be.
My dad things that I probably just need a fluid flush, and said that the sensor normally works on the resistance of the fluid. If a certain operating range of resistance isn't met, then that the fluid either isn't present or has broken down over time and is no longer at it's best cooling properties. Both in turn turning the light on. Is this true or false for the early C4 system?
So. Advice? :)
What is the best do-it-yourself flushing method? A friend of mine bought a kit at pepboys for his '95 Mustang that allows you to literally hook a garden hose in-line with the cooling system and flush it out. Is this alright?
Thanks!!!
I have checked the system and it appears to be full. There is fluid right at the radiator cap and under pressure when hot. The overflow tank is also where it should be.
My dad things that I probably just need a fluid flush, and said that the sensor normally works on the resistance of the fluid. If a certain operating range of resistance isn't met, then that the fluid either isn't present or has broken down over time and is no longer at it's best cooling properties. Both in turn turning the light on. Is this true or false for the early C4 system?
So. Advice? :)
What is the best do-it-yourself flushing method? A friend of mine bought a kit at pepboys for his '95 Mustang that allows you to literally hook a garden hose in-line with the cooling system and flush it out. Is this alright?
Thanks!!!
#2
Re: [LOW COOLANT]: The Light Is On, best flush method? (scorp508)
Some comments. I have had the most screwups with cooling systems than anything. My major problem is old hoses. So unless yours are almost new and either OEM or a major brand you might want to replace them. The first place they let go is where they attach to the engine.
As to the light coming on I don't have a clue but sometimes there can be a air lock or a slight leak. On my LT-1 it is necessary to take the small hose off of the throttle body and just let it purge for a sec. I have a Westerbeke diesel (marine) and unless the system is purged ( taking off hoses and running it to let the air out) it will over heat.
The flush idea is fine but I don't think it will cure the problem unless it bleeds the system by accident.
I forgot what the gages on the 87 are like for coolant temp but on the LT-1 the digital gage is useless for overheating monitoring. The tiny analog gage works however. But it's not "cool" looking.
As to the light coming on I don't have a clue but sometimes there can be a air lock or a slight leak. On my LT-1 it is necessary to take the small hose off of the throttle body and just let it purge for a sec. I have a Westerbeke diesel (marine) and unless the system is purged ( taking off hoses and running it to let the air out) it will over heat.
The flush idea is fine but I don't think it will cure the problem unless it bleeds the system by accident.
I forgot what the gages on the 87 are like for coolant temp but on the LT-1 the digital gage is useless for overheating monitoring. The tiny analog gage works however. But it's not "cool" looking.
#3
Race Director
Re: [LOW COOLANT]: The Light Is On, best flush method? (scorp508)
Some of your specfics,Im not sure about,but if the cooling system is overdue for a flush, it cant hurt,especially with winter coming.
Its also my belief that sometimes the sensor itself gets dirty,where maybe some coating or rust,grime,especially electrolysis,whatever is in there and it blinds the sensor somewhat,but I cant say for sure.Maybe it sees a low coolant condition when in fact its full once in a while.
What you should also do with the car running, see if any air bubbles form by taking the cap off and running the car and watching the coolant in there.
That may lead you to see if any air pockets or possible problems are happening.
I once bought a prestone flush kit with a "T" to connect inline to a hose and it had a screw on cap to attach a hose and help flush the system out.It worked fine but havent installed one on the Vette.
If this is similar to what your friend did with his mustang, I dont know how fail safe that is.A few times on mine, the clamps backed off and one time the cap unscrewed itself a little bit.
Mustve been the hot/cold cycles.
Caused a few drops to come out but nothing serious.
The plastics on it doesnt seem like they would hold up a long time under everyday use.
:)
Its also my belief that sometimes the sensor itself gets dirty,where maybe some coating or rust,grime,especially electrolysis,whatever is in there and it blinds the sensor somewhat,but I cant say for sure.Maybe it sees a low coolant condition when in fact its full once in a while.
What you should also do with the car running, see if any air bubbles form by taking the cap off and running the car and watching the coolant in there.
That may lead you to see if any air pockets or possible problems are happening.
I once bought a prestone flush kit with a "T" to connect inline to a hose and it had a screw on cap to attach a hose and help flush the system out.It worked fine but havent installed one on the Vette.
If this is similar to what your friend did with his mustang, I dont know how fail safe that is.A few times on mine, the clamps backed off and one time the cap unscrewed itself a little bit.
Mustve been the hot/cold cycles.
Caused a few drops to come out but nothing serious.
The plastics on it doesnt seem like they would hold up a long time under everyday use.
:)