C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

LT1 Timing Chain Set

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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 09:57 PM
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Default LT1 Timing Chain Set

I haven't had my engine apart yet, but am wanting to put in a Hotcam. Why is the LT1 timing chain set so damn expensive? In the pics I've seen, it's just 2 gears and a chain. What makes it special? I take it that you can't use the earlier chains in these engines or can you?
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 10:20 PM
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LTx timing sets have a top timing gear that is exclusive to the LTx engines. It has a special gear on the rear of the top gear to run the waterpump drive shaft. On top of that, the early LT1 timing sets have a splined hole to run the opti.

You can use a normal roller block timing set if you eliminate the water pump drive and run the Gen II opti setup. This is what I'm running.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 10:49 PM
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A quality electric water pump will allow you to use a standard double roller timing set which is much cheaper and better than any set available specifically for the LTx engines. If you're installing a cam anyway, this is a no-brainer. What year is your LT1? Specific instructions re/ the details will vary depending on that.
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Old Dec 15, 2007 | 11:54 PM
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Depending on how many miles you have on the factory set, you could probably just get away with chaning the chain. If you have to have a double roller, you will have to pay the big bucks unless using an electric pump. Either way it is going to cost you more than if you simply remained with the factory setup.

I replaced my factory timing gears and chain from Superior Chevrolet with factory replacements for under $90. Unless you are building 400+ hp and 6500+RPM factory will be fine more average rodding.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by biggrizzly
Depending on how many miles you have on the factory set, you could probably just get away with chaning the chain. If you have to have a double roller, you will have to pay the big bucks unless using an electric pump. Either way it is going to cost you more than if you simply remained with the factory setup.
Au contraire... Putting a new chain on worn gears is never a good idea.
And no matter how big your bucks are, you won't put any double roller on an engine with anything but an electric water pump. If one is figuring a water pump change, timing set change and the related work expected with such, buying a good EWP is comparable in price to a top quality factory replacement. A good quality Cloyes or similar TDR timing set is under a hundred clams. A factory replacement LT/x set is more than that and is a POS by comparison. The ED set is much more and is still a POS by comparison.
You do the math.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 12:30 AM
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"johnnymo63" has a 94 that will also need a GenII opti, 95 timing cover, and 95/96 opti wire and vaccuum harnesses to run a double roller timing set.

Last edited by STL94LT1; Dec 16, 2007 at 12:32 AM.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 01:01 AM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
"johnnymo63" has a 94 that will also need a GenII opti, 95 timing cover, and 95/96 opti wire and vaccuum harnesses to run a double roller timing set.
Good point. But in many cases one would be replacing the opti too, just because if for no other reason. In this case, the later and improved opti is cheaper too. This pretty much offsets the price of a later cover. These can be found used for $50 or less. Even the '96 and '97 LT/x OBD II covers will work. In that case you'd simply need to plug the crank sensor hole. A 3/4" core plug will do the trick.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 08:34 AM
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hi guys newbee here need some help with this subject. have a 93 lt1 and in the process of a rebuilt . i am putting in a new cam. all ready purchase a new msd opti #8381 93-94 gm lt1 and a meziere electric water pump. i am going to plug the stock water pump housing and was going to plug the top of the timing cover and order a new cloyes timing set is my stock timing cover going to work or do i need a different one
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Yeah, a cloyes doubleroller and an electric water pump is cheaper and better quality than a new LTx chain set by itself. I have a 94 but my opti was working good so I did some special mods to allow me to keep the old style opti without changing to the 95-96 timing cover and new style opti and tubing. I'm not sure, but I think Luminati now makes an inexpensive timing gear set with a splined hole to fit the pre-95 style opti. Check out Summit for that.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 04:37 PM
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Lunati does make a replacement timing set for the early LT1's. When it originally came out sold for around $100. It must be a popular set, now it sells for close to $200. IMHO, it doesn't look much better than the stock unit.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Hotred94
Yeah, a cloyes doubleroller and an electric water pump is cheaper and better quality than a new LTx chain set by itself. I have a 94 but my opti was working good so I did some special mods to allow me to keep the old style opti without changing to the 95-96 timing cover and new style opti and tubing.
And now with MSD making a quality opti replacement for both the early and late optis, spending the extra money to convert to a later opti in the earlier cars shouldn't really be necessary. It costs a bit more than a factory unit but since it eliminates the need for conversion, it should be a wash. The MSD has some important quality upgrades and I've yet to hear of any negative reports on it. Accel also makes an opti replacement but it's junk by comparison to the MSD or even the stockers. I'd strictly recommend avoiding it like the plague.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Corvette Kid
A factory replacement LT/x set is more than that and is a POS by comparison.
I paid around $88 for the complete factory set includes crank gear, cam gear and chain. Ordered from Chris May at Superior Chevrolet

Lloyd Elliot concurred that the factory gear set will be just fine. It works great on thousands of LT1s for thousands of miles. Agreed you don't have the option to modify timing with built in timing keyways, but if you don't want to go the route of electric water pump I don't see where the factory setup is a bad way to go.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Back about 5 years ago when I did my heads/cam, the shop that did my heads had raced LT1's in the 1990's when aftermarket replacement timing sets were hard to find. They had several failures of the stock timing sets. But, this was under severe race conditions. They strongly suggested I not run the stock set. I went against their advice and reran my stock 15k mile timing set. I ran several autocrosses and around 40 1/4 mile passes without a problem. However, every time I ran the car hard, their advice on the timing set was in the back of my mind. About two years ago I went with another cam change and finally decided to take their advice. I'm now running a Cloyes double roller timing set.

After saying all of that. I've yet to read of a stock timing chain failure on this site.


Best of luck.
-Mike
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by STL94LT1
After saying all of that. I've yet to read of a stock timing chain failure on this site.
With the all steel sets used in our cars from the factory, it's not complete failure I've ever been concerned with, but instead stretch from wear and the resultant changes in valve timing.
Back in the early 80s, I built and raced a dirt track stock car for a few years. To say that I was on a shoestring budget would be an understatement. Most of my internal engine parts were purchased used, whenever possible. I owned exactly one Cloyes double roller timing set that was bought used as well. It was used in three different 351 Clevelands that I ran in the car over this span of time. It never did stretch to an excessive amount.
In contrast, every low mileage single roller set-up that I've ever had occasion to remove was in practically no time stretched beyond the point where I would want to reuse it. Even in a completely stock application, given the choice I'll install a double roller every time, if available.
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Old Dec 16, 2007 | 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by johnnymo63
I haven't had my engine apart yet, but am wanting to put in a Hotcam. Why is the LT1 timing chain set so damn expensive? In the pics I've seen, it's just 2 gears and a chain. What makes it special? I take it that you can't use the earlier chains in these engines or can you?
I have a brand new chain if you want it. Its still in the GM shrinkwrap. I will never use it anyways. Let me know, if it will help in lowering the cost if you go stock chain.
PS, pay for shipping from Hawaii, and a dollar for gas to get to the Post Office!
I dont have any new gears that I know of, just the chain.
Speaking of the Extreme LT4 timing set, I just found, when looking for my chain stock LT1, the over sized crank gear for the extreme duty. Supposedly people bought these to get rid of any slack the chain had when installing. I guess with align honing or whatever else machine work is done things change within the block.
ANyone need it?

Last edited by steve40th; Dec 17, 2007 at 12:10 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 12:47 AM
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Originally Posted by steve40th
I have a brand new chain if you want it. Its still in the GM shrinkwrap. I will never use it anyways. Let me know, if it will help in lowering the cost if you go stock chain.
PS, pay for shipping from Hawaii, and a dollar for gas to get to the Post Office!
I dont have any new gears that I know of, just the chain.
Speaking of the Extreme LT4 timing set, I just found, when looking for my chain stock LT1, the over sized crank gear for the extreme duty. Supposedly people bought these to get rid of any slack the chain had when installing. I guess with align honing or whatever else machine work is done things change within the block.
ANyone need it?
PM sent.

My vette is a 94. I have a DelTeq ignition to put on it, so I wasn't wanting to change optis to the newer design. I am also planning to use the Meizer elec. pump, too.
I am a little confused about what hole(s) need to be plugged off. Anyone have pic of it?

Hotred94, what change did you make to use the old opti?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 11:51 AM
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The top hole needs to be plugged.

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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 12:04 PM
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That's a good pic. It looks like the timing cover simply pulls off after you unbolt it. Does the oil pan have to be loosened like on the earlier small blocks to get the cover off?
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Old Dec 17, 2007 | 12:24 PM
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Yes, you'll need to drop the front of the oil pan to get the timing cover off.
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Old Dec 27, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by johnnymo63
PM sent.

My vette is a 94. I have a DelTeq ignition to put on it, so I wasn't wanting to change optis to the newer design. I am also planning to use the Meizer elec. pump, too.
I am a little confused about what hole(s) need to be plugged off. Anyone have pic of it?

Hotred94, what change did you make to use the old opti?
I indexed and welded the opti spline to the Cloyes timing gear. This involved making a plug for the center hole in the gear then drilling out a smaller hole in the center to fit the splined shaft. I didn't have access to a machine to cut splines so I had to weld the shaft in the hole, but that makes it one less source of timing slop. The real trick is to index the shaft to the correct position on the new timing gear. I did this by putting the shaft in the old splined gear, then laid it on top of the Cloyes gear and lined up the notch and gear teeth, then marked where the key on the shaft was. I have been running this setup for about two years now without any problem.
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