new engine options....
So do I have to stick with an LT1 configuration or can I go with something completely different? Money-wise we are talking about 5 to 7 thousand dollars... and no I am not interested in moving up to a C5.....
Thoughts?
http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html
http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html
400RWHP on an LT1 isn't that difficult I don't think, but in a daily driver you will need to go to 383 or bigger. I think a 350 would be lopey/jerkey at low rpm to make that kind of power. You could get 350 rwhp from the 350 pretty easily and cheaply and be plenty streetable. With your budget, tho, I'd go to the 383 and 400RWHP. Man, I need a bigger budget!!!!
My otherwise stock 6-speed 02 coupe has a Vortech S-2 supercharger running 7lbs of boost at full throttle, a water-cooled intercooler with a SuperChips tune. It does have a Corsa Indy cat-back exhaust and factory exhaust manifolds. It dynoed at 440HP/403 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheels. It idles at the stock idle RPM, drives just like a stock LS1 and delivers 30+MPG at 70 with the cruise control.
But when you stomp on the loud pedal, it's pretty hard to keep it in a straight line
My otherwise stock 6-speed 02 coupe has a Vortech S-2 supercharger running 7lbs of boost at full throttle, a water-cooled intercooler with a SuperChips tune. It does have a Corsa Indy cat-back exhaust and factory exhaust manifolds. It dynoed at 440HP/403 ft-lbs of torque at the rear wheels. It idles at the stock idle RPM, drives just like a stock LS1 and delivers 30+MPG at 70 with the cruise control.
But when you stomp on the loud pedal, it's pretty hard to keep it in a straight line
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The thing that makes turbo or supercharger application work is that "normal" street operation does not (or should not) put that much of a strain on the motor. For example in my setup, the 7psi boost is in only at WOT. Just driving in traffic on city streets my boost gauge doesn't show much boost at all. Freeway cruising actually shows vacuum.
How you set up a forced air induction system has a lot to do with longevity (as does the weight placed on the gas pedal
) of the intenal engine components. On my Vortech system, the size of the drive pulley determines in part how much boost is generated. I could go to say 8-9psi boost with a pulley change and that would place an additional load on the pistons, rods and crank, not to mention the drivetrain.
The thing that makes turbo or supercharger application work is that "normal" street operation does not (or should not) put that much of a strain on the motor. For example in my setup, the 7psi boost is in only at WOT. Just driving in traffic on city streets my boost gauge doesn't show much boost at all. Freeway cruising actually shows vacuum.
How you set up a forced air induction system has a lot to do with longevity (as does the weight placed on the gas pedal
) of the intenal engine components. On my Vortech system, the size of the drive pulley determines in part how much boost is generated. I could go to say 8-9psi boost with a pulley change and that would place an additional load on the pistons, rods and crank, not to mention the drivetrain.Gas mileage is also a factor with highly modded motors. Proper matching of prerformance equipment and having everything tuned right is very important but there will be some reduction in fuel economy with internal mods. If the car will be a daily driver, that is an important thing to consider, given the current cost of 91 or 92 octane gas.
As far as HP output, my motor should be somewhere around 510-530HP at the flywheel considering a roughly 15% loss due to the drivetrain. I would listen to motors that put out that kind of power using internal mods (cam, heads, headers, etc) and see if that's what you want to live with on a daily basis. My motor is quiet (outside of the Corsa exhaust) idles very smoothly at the stock RPM and drives like any stock C5. Until I hit the throttle.
Guess it's all in which way you want to go. Either internal mods, forced induction, or even Nitrous will give you the power you want. How it's done is personal preference. Cost is also a factor in reaching a particular performance level. Price out both ways and see which works best.
Gas mileage is also a factor with highly modded motors. Proper matching of prerformance equipment and having everything tuned right is very important but there will be some reduction in fuel economy with internal mods. If the car will be a daily driver, that is an important thing to consider, given the current cost of 91 or 92 octane gas.
As far as HP output, my motor should be somewhere around 510-530HP at the flywheel considering a roughly 15% loss due to the drivetrain. I would listen to motors that put out that kind of power using internal mods (cam, heads, headers, etc) and see if that's what you want to live with on a daily basis. My motor is quiet (outside of the Corsa exhaust) idles very smoothly at the stock RPM and drives like any stock C5. Until I hit the throttle.
Guess it's all in which way you want to go. Either internal mods, forced induction, or even Nitrous will give you the power you want. How it's done is personal preference. Cost is also a factor in reaching a particular performance level. Price out both ways and see which works best.
Last edited by apeacefulstorm; Dec 24, 2007 at 01:38 PM.

Option 2 is much less expensive with less down time. I vote for a 383 stroker with your heads ported and a strong but streetable cam. If you have an auto you will need a heavier stall. You should also do LT headers at the same time. A well built short block by a reputable builder would be a great starting point.
IMHO, a good engine builder is fairly easy to find. And building a good engine (even a stroker) is very easy for the good builder. So, the reliability factor, even in a performance build, can be very high. And when something does go wrong, a good mechanic can sort things out fairly easily.
On the other hand, I've seen blower engines fail quite early in life.....say after 30 to 40K miles, due to problems with the blower and how it's used/tuned/etc. Even blowers from 'reputable' companies have had problems. And once installed, who can you turn to, to sort things out.....a local mechanic (maybe?), a local tuner (perhaps?), the dealer or manufacturer (yeah.....right!)?
With any application, reliability is built into the product. A stroker is almost always more reliable than a blower......whether the blower is on a stock(ish) engine......or a built engine.
This is, IMHO and in my experience.
BTW.....my 415 RWHP/450 RWTQ 396ci LT1 (Impala SS) just rolled over 105K miles last month......and for six of the 10 years I had the engine, it was a daily driver
!FWIW......
KW
Last edited by Kevin Woods; Dec 24, 2007 at 03:23 PM.
IMHO, a good engine builder is fairly easy to find. And building a good engine (even a stroker) is very easy for the good builder. So, the reliability factor, even in a performance build, can be very high. And when something does go wrong, a good mechanic can sort things out fairly easily.
On the other hand, I've seen blower engines fail quite early in life.....say after 30 to 40K miles, due to problems with the blower and how it's used/tuned/etc. Even blowers from 'reputable' companies have had problems. And once installed, who can you turn to, to sort things out.....a local mechanic (maybe?), a local tuner (perhaps?), the dealer or manufacturer (yeah.....right!)?
With any application, reliability is built into the product. A stroker is almost always more reliable than a blower......whether the blower is on a stock(ish) engine......or a built engine.
This is, IMHO and in my experience.
BTW.....my 415 RWHP/450 RWTQ 396ci LT1 (Impala SS) just rolled over 105K miles last month......and for six of the 10 years I had the engine, it was a daily driver
!FWIW......
KW
Last edited by apeacefulstorm; Dec 24, 2007 at 06:10 PM.














