Radiator Replacement Recommendations?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 279
Likes: 7
From: L.A., CA.
Radiator Replacement Recommendations?
I'm looking for a replacement radiator for my C4 w/M6. The stock side tank is bursting.
Griffin and Ron Davis make aluminum radiators. What have you tried that fit and worked?
Rik
Griffin and Ron Davis make aluminum radiators. What have you tried that fit and worked?
Rik
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,816
Likes: 2
From: Austin, TX
Re: Radiator Replacement Recommendations? (Zpeedstr)
I installed a Griffin (bought from Dewitts) in mine this summer because of exactly the same problem.
It's a very good quality unit. The fit is pretty good. Only thing I had to do was remove the rubber radiator mounts and trim a little from the lower radiator support (plastic).
It's a very good quality unit. The fit is pretty good. Only thing I had to do was remove the rubber radiator mounts and trim a little from the lower radiator support (plastic).
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,143
Likes: 1,729
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Re: Radiator Replacement Recommendations? (Zpeedstr)
look into a BeCool Radiator, if you ever plan on modifying the engine.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Re: Radiator Replacement Recommendations? (BrianCunningham)
A buddy of mine had a 415 built for his 86 and the engine ran hot with the stock radiator, so he bought one of the $500+ jobs.
Engine got pulled, I rebuilt it and put it in my 86 with a stock radiator. No over-heating problem at all.
I developed a leak in the driver's side plastic side tank on the stock radiator last summer too. I bought a stock, direct replacement radiator from O'Reilly's Auto Parts and the engine now runs even cooler, even in Texas 100+ heat.
It's been my experience that cooling even a 415 is a matter of airflow through the radiator, not the size of the radiator. If the car is left idling WITH THE A/C ON for a long period of time (100 degree F ambient temps), temps will climb to 230/240. But as long as the car is moving, even at 30/35 MPH speeds on city streets, temps don't cross 200; on the Interstate, temps remain in the low 190s; and this is all in 100 degree ambient temps.
In addition, I was running a 170 thermostat with the drilled holes per TPIS' suggestions and the bypass blocked at the water pump (passenger side lowest hole). Now that the temps here in Texas have dropped to the 70s during the day and even lower at night, last week I took out the 170 and installed a 180 (with similar holes) to RAISE the engine temp allowing better heat to the passenger compartment.
Moral: If the engine is built and tuned correctly, you don't need a high dollar radiator. Airflow is the key to lower temps.
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 12:56 PM 11/26/2001]
Engine got pulled, I rebuilt it and put it in my 86 with a stock radiator. No over-heating problem at all.
I developed a leak in the driver's side plastic side tank on the stock radiator last summer too. I bought a stock, direct replacement radiator from O'Reilly's Auto Parts and the engine now runs even cooler, even in Texas 100+ heat.
It's been my experience that cooling even a 415 is a matter of airflow through the radiator, not the size of the radiator. If the car is left idling WITH THE A/C ON for a long period of time (100 degree F ambient temps), temps will climb to 230/240. But as long as the car is moving, even at 30/35 MPH speeds on city streets, temps don't cross 200; on the Interstate, temps remain in the low 190s; and this is all in 100 degree ambient temps.
In addition, I was running a 170 thermostat with the drilled holes per TPIS' suggestions and the bypass blocked at the water pump (passenger side lowest hole). Now that the temps here in Texas have dropped to the 70s during the day and even lower at night, last week I took out the 170 and installed a 180 (with similar holes) to RAISE the engine temp allowing better heat to the passenger compartment.
Moral: If the engine is built and tuned correctly, you don't need a high dollar radiator. Airflow is the key to lower temps.
Jake
[Modified by JAKE, 12:56 PM 11/26/2001]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 3,215
Likes: 6
From: Tampa Florida
Re: Radiator Replacement Recommendations? (Zpeedstr)
I purchased a Griffin radiator from Dewitt. Just arrive after 6 weeks (I'm in no hurry).
Looks like it will do the job-very high quality it appears.
My essentially stock LT4 with a clean radiator was hitting 215-220 after 3 hot laps at Watkins Glen with 65 degree temps. I believe a better cooler was in order.
Also ZR1 folks who have used the Be Cool have had problems with the radiators coming apart possibly due to high pressures LT5 can run at-may be flukes, but that sold me on the Griffin...and the price:)of couse we aren't talking about an LT5 either...
Good Luck!
Looks like it will do the job-very high quality it appears.
My essentially stock LT4 with a clean radiator was hitting 215-220 after 3 hot laps at Watkins Glen with 65 degree temps. I believe a better cooler was in order.
Also ZR1 folks who have used the Be Cool have had problems with the radiators coming apart possibly due to high pressures LT5 can run at-may be flukes, but that sold me on the Griffin...and the price:)of couse we aren't talking about an LT5 either...
Good Luck!
