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Hello,
There are Vats GM key blanks made now that have a slightly thicker 'pellet'. You have to use an Ohm meter and get the value of your factory key. Then order a couple of the new replacements (with thicker pellet) and have them cut locally. This will fix the 'slight-wear' in ignition cylinder for years! They are economical and you don't have to change anything. They are available from Lock shops and a guy sells them on Ebay. Thought some folks might want to know.
You All Take Care and Be Safe, -John
I take it they will still be code 13 keys since the ingnition only reads the key and that changing the cyclinder won't change the VATS code because the VATS decoder can only read what code it is programed to read.
Yep, exactly correct. The worst part of replacing the ignition cylinder was throwing away two $25 keys I had made for the old cylinder after buying the car. The good news is that in the five weeks since replacing my ignition cylinder, I have had zero starting problems.
If you replace the ignition cylinder yourself, cut the old VATS wires at the old ignition cylinder and tie these to your new connector to feed it down the column. I had to wrap the knot in electrical tape to make it "aerodynamic" enough to slide down the column without hanging up. Even so, it still took several tries of pulling and pushing to get the new VATS wires down the column. Once that was finished, the rest of the job was a piece of cake.
I just replaced the ignition cylinder is come to fine out that one of the little white wires on the old cyclinder had broke off. The now runs and starts fine. Thanks for all the help.