C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Priming LT1 After Intake Installation

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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 02:13 PM
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Default Priming LT1 After Intake Installation

I know I can prime the engine before installation of the intake manifold and will do that, but it is likely that the engine will still sit for some time after priming before engine startup. The intake will be installed by then.

I was hopeing that there was another way to pump oil through the system with the engine assembled. I have read posts where this could be done, but can't fine them or any details to what tools and fittings would be needed to accomplish this.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 06:59 PM
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Once the intake is on, I will pull the fuel pump fuse and coil wire. Then turn the engine over until I see oil pressure. Let it sit for about a minute to cool the starter, and turn it over again for about 20 seconds. Connect the coil wire, reinstall the fuel pump fuse, cross my fingers, and let her fire.

After being down for several months, I restarted my car on Christmas Day. It always puts a smile on my face how easy these cars restart after downtime.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 08:18 PM
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Motive Products Power Bleeder. They don't work well for brakes but they are absolutely super for priming the oil. install a pipe thread to hose adapter in the block oil pressure sending unit port, hook up the hose, fill the bleeder with Mobil1 and pump up pressure.

No more dry starts!!

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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 08:24 PM
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Great idea Greg!!

I have one, and it works pretty well on my cars for brake bleeding.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 08:36 PM
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Idea!

If you have an accusump, which is also a good thing to have, you an also use it.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 08:37 PM
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Thanks, that seems like the easiest way. I had thought about that but it seemed so downstream from where I am today. Actually, I think it will be easier to do it this way rather than try to use a pump or something to push it through.

Well I posted this before reading Greg's post about using the power bleeder. I have one of those, and didn't even think of using it. Great idea!

Last edited by biggrizzly; Dec 29, 2007 at 10:56 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Gore
Motive Products Power Bleeder. They don't work well for brakes but they are absolutely super for priming the oil. install a pipe thread to hose adapter in the block oil pressure sending unit port, hook up the hose, fill the bleeder with Mobil1 and pump up pressure.

No more dry starts!!

Greg, is this the port on the top of block in the rear near the china wall?
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Old Dec 29, 2007 | 11:34 PM
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Easier to get to the one at the oil filter adapter. Oil temp sending unit 1/4" pipe threads.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 01:31 AM
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hi guys,
can this procedure done same with L98 engine ??
thanks
shae
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 08:14 AM
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Sure it can if you don't want to pull your distributor. For L98 engines I think it would be better to remove the distributor and drive the oil pump with a dummy shaft through. Engaging the engine oil pump with a drill on a dummy shaft will give you a more positive prime than using a pressurized jug. The jug of oil with a hand pump method is what you have to do sometimes with an LT1 in the car when it is not practical to remove the intake manifold. Your goal is to get the galleys in the block full of oil and air trapped in the new oil filter and galleys to the filter often delays this from happening. I think using the starter to crank a dry engine over to get pressure before switching 12 volts to the ignition should be avoided if possible but it may not hurt anything if you built the engine and you know that you have adequate assembly lube in all the critical places.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:01 AM
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Got a picture of the fittings used to connect the jug?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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Some pack the oil pump gears with grease so when you turn the key that thing primes instantly. Cant remember if its white grease or not, its been awhile. At least this way you arent turning the motor over forever dry trying to get pressure.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Strick
Got a picture of the fittings used to connect the jug?



Picture I found shows two but you only need one. Use hose clamps and I also changed to a longer hose for convenience.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Gore
think using the starter to crank a dry engine over to get pressure before switching 12 volts to the ignition should be avoided if possible but it may not hurt anything if you built the engine and you know that you have adequate assembly lube in all the critical places.
FYI: I wouldn't use this method on a dry/new engine.
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Gore


Picture I found shows two but you only need one. Use hose clamps and I also changed to a longer hose for convenience.
These are 1/4" threads?
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:35 PM
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Yes, 1/4" NPT or more commonly called pipe thread. 1/4" pipe thread is a much larger physical size than standard or SAE thread used for bolts.
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