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Remove the battery covering body part. It's that little bit between the front of the driver's door and the wheel well. There are two bolts on top, a number of screws in the wheel well and one bolt on the bottom that only needs to be loosened. The panel comes off in less than two minutes and the battery slides out the side of the car.
That's not how it comes out. First disconnect the battery. Now look inside wheel well looking at the side fender, and look and see torx bolts for the side fender, well remove them. Now look at the top of the side fender near the latch under the rubber seal remove that bolt. Now bend down and look inside the fender on the bottom, you'll see a bolt, just loosen that bolt, do not remove it. Pay attention when you remove fender, look at the bottom bolt for shims, and install the same way. It should take you less than 15 minutes for removal, how fun!
From: Downtown Annapolis, MD. The Future is where we all have to live. Let's not screw it up.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Originally Posted by 94z07fx3
Remove the battery covering body part. It's that little bit between the front of the driver's door and the wheel well. There are two bolts on top, a number of screws in the wheel well and one bolt on the bottom that only needs to be loosened. The panel comes off in less than two minutes and the battery slides out the side of the car.
I don't mean to step on anyone's post but I'd like to add one other thing. The bolt at the bottom of the battery access panel is in the gap between the access panel and the lower "Gravel" Panel. You have to look into that gap to see it and you need to sqeeze a box or open end wrench in there to loosen the bolt. I believe it is 10mm (At least it is on my '93).
That's not how it comes out. First disconnect the battery. Now look inside wheel well looking at the side fender, and look and see torx bolts for the side fender, well remove them. Now look at the top of the side fender near the latch under the rubber seal remove that bolt. Now bend down and look inside the fender on the bottom, you'll see a bolt, just loosen that bolt, do not remove it. Pay attention when you remove fender, look at the bottom bolt for shims, and install the same way. It should take you less than 15 minutes for removal, how fun!
Thanks guys. I knew there had to be a better way. Ray
Your lifetime battery will NOT last any longer then any other standard high quality battery. What you most likely have is a warranty that does not pro rate. Which I think is a great purchase. There is nothing such as "lifetime" batteries and for that matter "lifetime" tires, only lifetime warranties
Your lifetime battery will NOT last any longer then any other standard high quality battery. What you most likely have is a warranty that does not pro rate. Which I think is a great purchase. There is nothing such as "lifetime" batteries and for that matter "lifetime" tires, only lifetime warranties
arizonaames269 was joking about having a lifetime battery. If you didn't realize it, the "laughing face" was the giveaway. Despite not realizing his intent, it was nevertheless nice of you to pass on the info.
So let me hijack this thread for a moment - why all the fuss over the Optima batteries? From what I've read about them, they're fantastic for things like boats that don't get used often and the deep cycle works great for them.
So how can these batteries be superior for use in a car?
I ask because I don't have a lot of faith in the BOSCH battery sitting in my Vette. I have a float charger connected - here in Colorado we have several inches of snow and lots of black ice around. I rather doubt that the Vette will leave the garage until something in March.
So educate me on how a $150+ Optima will be superior to a Sears Diehard that I can get for half the amount.
Thanks for any information/advice that can be thrown my way.
The Optima is designed to have no ill effects when continually discharged and charged. Most batteries will have a decreased lifespan when constantly discharged and charged. The Yellow Top is designed for high use electrical devices, such as a stereo with a bunch of amps, subwoofers, etc. The Yellow Top is designed to keep the car powered so the load will not tax the battery into oblivion, an early death or to run the battery so low that the alternator cannot keep up with the draw or demand.
The Red Top is their battery for cars that don't have anything out of the ordinary. Any Optima can be mounted in any position - on its side, upside down, etc. The way they're made and designed, it doesn't matter if the car shakes, rattles or rolls. If the car will do a lot of bouncing, sliding, etc., there will be no ill effects to the Optima. A Red Top is basically used on any car where there will be not be a high electrical demand (as listed above). The Optima is supposed to last several years longer than other batteries. No maintenance is ever required, such as adding water.
Several people on this Forum love the Optima and others dislike it. My 85 is currently undergoing an extensive restoration/modification, over quite a long time. I opted to have a Red Top installed.
The Optima is a great choice for those enthusiasts who keep their cars on a float charger or it's also great for those who do not. Keeping your cars in the garage (or wherever) for an extended period of time, not hooked up to a float charger will cause your battery to lose its charge. Doing this over a long period of time is certain to cause an early death to the battery. But the Optima is designed to prevent this from occurring. I chose to go with the Optima because my car will always be hooked up to a float charger and wanted to ensure that no damage will occur to the battery from such extensive non-use.
Many people have stated that minor modification is needed for the Optima to fit in the battery tray, but from what I've been told, it's not a problem for the do-it-your-selfer - even if you're not mechanically inclined.