John A. Marker

I don't think they would get into the valley. To get there they would have to more upward and pass thru the push rod holes. More of a chance that the are in the bottom of the pan. If you found metal filings around the head bolts for #8, this is the direction the oil would flow and then pass into the pan. Metal in the pan is never good. The dampener spring parts would be heavy like you indicated and would be stopped by the oil pump pickup screen. Small metal filings would flow thru and hopefully be caught in the oil filter.

From your description, it sounds like the dampener broke and was rubbing against the top of the retainers creating the small metal filings.

Time will tell on the health of your engine.

-John

pletzvet

Thanks John,
I see what you mean - the dampener fragments would have to go through the holes on the top edge of the head, which is pretty unlikely. Not having any idea how long the dampeners were broken, you're right - it's a matter of wait and see and not much else I can do except get a magnetic oil drain plug installed asap. I've had the car for coming on 3 years now and I've done 3 oil/filter changes in that time - hope I have got rid of most of the filings unless they're embedded into the bearings. I think I'll pull the oil pan and see what I find in there. One thing I can say is that the rocker '*****' were amazingly smooth and not even a hint of scoring. I'll keep my fingers crossed and use only the best oil filters (not mentioning any brand names, 'cause we know where that goes!!)

KnightVette

This was a great thread. I tackled this job a couple of weeks ago. I just wanted to add a couple of comments from my experience for anyone else who attempts this in the future. It's illustrated in the Haynes manual, but you can use the cheap 'L' shaped valve spring compressor on a Tuned Port engine. There's not enough room for the lever to compress the spring. I ended up buying a screw type compressor and that worked fine. I also had trouble unfreezeing the retainers from the locks so I ended up using the rope method instead of the compressed air so I could take more swings at unfreezing the retainers. I also installed Harland Sharp 1.5 roller rockers since I was doing the seals. I've only driven the car a few times, but WoW, the vette runs so much smoother and just feels so much better. For me, it was worth the 16hrs. of back breaking work. I know, I know, I work slow

John A. Marker

Glad the thread helped in your install. I built my own spring compressor using a piece of 1" channel. A small "V" cut on each side bend and weld, slot for the valve and hole for the stud. I made mine about 24" long to get better leverage. Worked great.

In the future, if you have a retainer that is stuck, compress the spring a fraction and hit the valve stem (gently) with a small hammer. This will free up the retainers. It may take a couple of taps. In your case.....maybe you just needed a bigger hammer!!

I have been using JOE C's method of adjusting the valve clearance using a feeler gauge. Works better than twisting the rods.

Joe C

gee John, i'm suprised you still remember me . that valve adjustment technique is so simple and straight forward, that i can't believe someone a whole lot smarter than me didn't figure it out sooner (or maybe they did)...

i take it your 85 is running @100% - my son high-tailed to florida with my 85, and since then i picked up a 90 to fill the void in my garage. haven't had to adjust any valves or replace seals since last spring, but i'm ready. BTW, i pressurized the cylinder to 100-125 psi, backed off both rockers, and compressed each valve. i got my adapter and lever tool from eastwood - paid something like $30 (i think). felpro supplied the seals. anyway, you and everyone on the forum, have a happy thanksgiving...

Joe C

1irishprince

I just did mine last week without problems. I just took out the needle valve on the end of my compression gauge(and the hose already has a quick connection to the gauge) and just plugged it into the end of the compressor hose. Worked fine. This is the third time I've done it this way and never hada problem. Just make sure none of your valves aren't burnt and you keep the pressure above 80 psi or you'll lose your valve!

pletzvet

Earlier in this thread, I had mentioned the 2 broken dampeners that I discovered while doing the seals in my '85 this spring and the traces of metal filings that I found near the rear oil return holes. I stuck a real powerful magnet on the bottom of my oil pan (something I'd recommend in all cases) drove all summer and did my fall oil change before putting the car into hibernation for the winter. I used a clean container to catch the old oil, and pulled the magnet off after the oil started draining. There were no noticable filings in the oil - even after dragging the magnet in the oil container. I also cut open the oil filter and again - no sign of filings. If there were any filings in the oil I'm thinking that the system pretty well cleaned itself on previous oil changes. By the way, the results of the valve seal replacement that I did this spring turned out excellent.

uptown193

bump for future reference.

Sandpiper59

Just for reference if someone needed to know. Math is simple, but assuming we are dealing with close to 2" intake and 1.6" exhaust valves, at 100psi into the cylinder, there will be about 300lbs force holding the intake in place and about 200lbs holding the exhaust. Plenty for your needs to change seals! Only downfall? The split second you do crack open that valve, all pressure is lost and there is nothing holding the valve.

Also, surprised it wasn't mentioned in this excellent review of doing seals but.. I've done many on small blocks and you might as well come to top dead center on the firing stroke for each cylinder as you do it. Not only does this save the risk of dropping a valve as mentioned, but once you have the springs back on you can reset set your rockers and be done with that cylinder entirely.

Greg