one person said 2 feet were needed to get this done. Time to give EM a call.
16" floor jacks and the wood blocks should get the job done.
Header install question.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 5
From: Daleville Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Header install question.
I've been looking over all the header post and think about installing them myself. I was wondering how high off the ground do you need to get the Vette. I saw some photos but couldn't really tell. If you had them install how much did it cost you for labor.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
That's 8 inches under the wheels. I have the car on wood blocks stacked up. So the wheels are sitting 8 inches higher than normal, as if it were sitting on the ground.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
I had plenty of room, way more than enough. Ignore the mess. It's 8.75 inches under the wheels.
Last edited by jsup; Jan 12, 2008 at 03:42 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 18
From: Los Angeles California
I was the one that said that. Unless you're going to tear everything down to install them from the top, that's how much height you need to angle hooker 2151 headers up into place. Keep in mind the car starts about 4 inches off the ground.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Just thought of something.
You do have to take out the temp sensor on the passenger side head, it's a bitch to work around it.
Last edited by jsup; Jan 12, 2008 at 03:49 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
On the driver's side the oil cooler hose was up against the header. I ordered a new one from the local Chevy dealer. I cut the side that goes into the block short about 5/8 of an inch, that gave me about 1/4 inch or slightly more between the header and the oil cooler hose.
Those were the only minor mods I had to do. The grinding of the cross member was optional, as I had about 1/8 inch between them. I just wanted more clearance.
I'd take the cross members out to get the old exhaust out, as getting up there is a bitch with them in the way. BUT you have to bolt them back on BEFORE putting in the header on the passenger side. The driver's side isn't an issue.
Last thing, I went to Sears and picked up a 3/16---1/4 inch drive allen key. Made getting in that last bolt on the passenger side much easier.
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Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
If you get EM headers you'll have to grind down the side of the cross member. I just took it off and did it on the bench.
On the driver's side the oil cooler hose was up against the header. I ordered a new one from the local Chevy dealer. I cut the side that goes into the block short about 5/8 of an inch, that gave me about 1/4 inch or slightly more between the header and the oil cooler hose.
Those were the only minor mods I had to do. The grinding of the cross member was optional, as I had about 1/8 inch between them. I just wanted more clearance.
I'd take the cross members out to get the old exhaust out, as getting up there is a bitch with them in the way. BUT you have to bolt them back on BEFORE putting in the header on the passenger side. The driver's side isn't an issue.
Last thing, I went to Sears and picked up a 3/16---1/4 inch drive allen key. Made getting in that last bolt on the passenger side much easier.
On the driver's side the oil cooler hose was up against the header. I ordered a new one from the local Chevy dealer. I cut the side that goes into the block short about 5/8 of an inch, that gave me about 1/4 inch or slightly more between the header and the oil cooler hose.
Those were the only minor mods I had to do. The grinding of the cross member was optional, as I had about 1/8 inch between them. I just wanted more clearance.
I'd take the cross members out to get the old exhaust out, as getting up there is a bitch with them in the way. BUT you have to bolt them back on BEFORE putting in the header on the passenger side. The driver's side isn't an issue.
Last thing, I went to Sears and picked up a 3/16---1/4 inch drive allen key. Made getting in that last bolt on the passenger side much easier.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
Likes: 0
From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 5
From: Daleville Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Thanks for the info anyway. I'll be calling EM Monday to place my order.
Hey STL94LT1 its early but have you looked over Gateways schedule for dates you would like to meet. I've got a list six people so far plus some non forum members that want to go.
Last edited by Jonnymac; Jan 13, 2008 at 02:18 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
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From: O'Fallon Missouri
I just had some work done to my heads, and new rockers/guides/pushrods. The car is feeling really strong.
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 87
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From: albrightsville pa
I just installed my EM's this week end. The worst part was getting to the upper driver side cat bracket bolt. I have a 6 speed (auto's may have more room) but one tip i can give is while your reversing the motor mount bolt let the motor down to give added clearance to loosen with a swivel socket then work it out the rest of the way with your fingers (do that one first). Some just cut the bracket off. you don't have to remove the alternator or bracket, just the a/c compressor and move aside
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
The worst part was getting to the upper driver side cat bracket bolt. I have a 6 speed (auto's may have more room) but one tip i can give is while your reversing the motor mount bolt let the motor down to give added clearance to loosen with a swivel socket then work it out the rest of the way with your fingers (do that one first). Some just cut the bracket off. you don't have to remove the alternator or bracket, just the a/c compressor and move aside
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,326
Likes: 18
From: Los Angeles California
I recommend making darn sure the primary pipes don't come too close to the frame anywhere, I missed where one of them bumped up against a little bump in the frame and by the time I noticed it was too late to dimple the pipe there because I had just had them coated. I ended up grinding off the corner of the frame.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 35,065
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Look under the wheel, there's 5 boards, 1.75 each.
Ah yes, I didn't have to drain since it was already done, they were new heads
I recommend making darn sure the primary pipes don't come too close to the frame anywhere, I missed where one of them bumped up against a little bump in the frame and by the time I noticed it was too late to dimple the pipe there because I had just had them coated. I ended up grinding off the corner of the frame.
So did I
I couldn't get my headers past that sensor without grinding a few mm off the sensor's connector. I certainly didn't feel like draining the coolant to remove it.
I recommend making darn sure the primary pipes don't come too close to the frame anywhere, I missed where one of them bumped up against a little bump in the frame and by the time I noticed it was too late to dimple the pipe there because I had just had them coated. I ended up grinding off the corner of the frame.
So did I
