How about a toggle switch to kick back timing? Any SWITCHABLE way to kill some low end? I Can spin street tires forever since gear change to 3.75's. Dana 36 out back so drag radials would be risky.Ported intake and lost a little and can now rev it to 5400 which is nice, but :I need a way to switch off some more power UNTIL I GET IT ROLLING. any ideas? Tried not stepping on the gas so hard but its harder than it sounds! When I had 2.70's I couldn't spin the tires at all and always had sub 2 sec 60 ft times, now I can't get out of the hole to save my life, Ya I know the dana 36 is weak and the 3.75's are way too steep....

 

 

I used drag radials to control my wheel spin off the line. See my signature for my list of mods. I've been running this set since Oct 2005. Knock knock on wood my D36 is still holding up pretty good.

 

Buy a Tornado!

 

he wants to lessen low end torque, not kill performance.

 

A Miniram or converted LT1 intake should fix that problem. You should also have more power up top as well!

 

Got the same problem even with sticky 315s on stock gearing 3.07

 

An after market ignition box can do it with the nitrous retard feature. My Mallory box will pull up to 10 degrees of timing with the touch of a button.

However, pulling power is retarded IMO. With the stock set-up, even mildly modified, you aren't making any real power or torque. I know the L98 guys live and breathe the torque argument, but in all reality the chances of you making more than 350 RWTQ at any RPM is pretty slim, and the chance of you making more than 375 RTWQ is all but impossible. Any decent street tire should hook 375 RWTQ, and any drag radial will do it without a problem; especially on a prepped track.

My L98 car is making 270/370 and dead hooks on ET streets at the track, even on the 100 shot of nitrous. On the sauce, I'm making close to 600 RWTQ, and the ET streets will dead hook it. With my cheap BFG street tires I can be hooked in first gear and cut 1.9's if I dump the clutch at 2000 or so.

My point is that you either have really poor tires, a suspension anomaly that is preventing you from hooking, or some other weird issue. You most definitely aren't making the power to justify pulling timing in an effort to reduce engine output in order to hook the tires. Beyond that, the D36, while weaker than the D44, is not going to break from cutting 1.7's in a stock car with drag radials. Despite what you've read on here, they aren't made of glass.

Here's a couple suggestions to help the car hook:

Have the rear aligned. No toe, and about .5 of positive camber. That should tilt the rear tires out just a bit. When the car squats, the tires will tilt in and flat the tire on the track.

Unhook the sway bar in the front.

Lower tire pressure a bit. My personal experience has shown that about 25 PSI on street tires works best. Your results may vary.

Buy or build an adjustable heim link for the rear sway bar. Put it on the passenger side and make the link longer than stock. That will pre-load the right rear tire.

When you launch, wait just a split second before matting the throttle. Watch the front of the car, once you see it rise, then mat the gas. This gives the suspension a chance to act and settle the weight on the rear tires.

New shocks. Chances are your stock shocks are shot. You don't need 90/10's or some other drag shock. Some stock replacement KYB's will work fine. You can get them for about $50 a shock from most auto parts stores.

There's more, but hopefully you get my point. You most definitely aren't in the realm of needing to pull power to hook the car. Find out why the car isn't hooking and fix the problem, rather than pulling power.

 

Thanks for the response. Neat your Right it doesn't have all that much Torque compared to the big dogs, But I put that D36 together I know how small it is! I'll have to just buy some tires and see how long it lasts, either that or stay home on cold days. Thanks for the list of mods.

 

How so?

 

The long, small diameter TPI runners have high air speed and make low rpm torque. The short larger runners of the Mini have more volume, less air speed amd make more power at higher rpm.

 

Zero out the PE spark adder table, and just put it in the normal spark advance table.

The PE spark adder was designed to give customers that '4 bbl opening snap neck' feeling that the older carb cars had. All it does is cause you to lose traction. Ramp the timing in as fast as possible by peak torque, and call it a day.

-- Joe

 

I know you say it is too much but like from a a roll is it an insane pull when you get traction or how a bout passing some one I really think I want 3.73 or atleast 3.55 I want a sports car again I have 2.59 an it barely spins them 17 in