C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

CYL Head ? about Dart Iron Eagle!

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:35 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 88BlackZ-51
It's all about budget man. Two years ago I was going to install my trickflow heads/LPE 219/superram on my stock shortblock which would of been in the 340rwhp area. I almost did it but I knew I would only be happy with it for 2 years or so.......Hence why I held off on it.

What's your budget? Then go from there!

That is the thing, budget is not a real big concern to a point. I had figured I would be around 3K for a engine build. I figured if I can come in under that and make the HP I want I was good. If I am going to go OVER that more than a couple hundred then I think it would be worth the extra to buy it complete and with a warrenty IF I can get around 350HP out of the ZZ4.

I have used the search function to see if there was any combinations listed like what I am wanting to build with Dyno numbers to back it up and I was unable to find any. I figured I would just use a proven combination from a fellow member and be done with this..
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by BADDUCK
You could pick up some 113 heads pretty cheap but I'm not sure how much it will hurt compression on a 1985.
The combustion chamber size on the old iron heads is 76ccs. The size on the aluminum heads are 58ccs. If you put 113s on a formerly iron headed L98, your compression ratio is gonna be at an unstreetable level. I would estimate something like 11.6:1. The stock cam would ping that motor to death.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 01:56 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by hooblyboobly
The combustion chamber size on the old iron heads is 76ccs. The size on the aluminum heads are 58ccs. If you put 113s on a formerly iron headed L98, your compression ratio is gonna be at an unstreetable level. I would estimate something like 11.6:1. The stock cam would ping that motor to death.

I am building a complete new 355. I will buy pistons to meet the 10.5 ratio that I want AFTER I have purchased the heads I will use.
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #24  
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Well that is what I was wondering. If I have to buy a set of 113's, have them rebuilt and pay to have them ported, will I have more money in them than what I can just go buy a set of aftermarket heads for?
Youre ahead of the game with an AFR 180 IMO, both $ (that will be close) and power, no comparison.

No good porting job is cheap, for a ***** out job plan on spending about 1k easy + valve job/aprings, etc
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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #25  
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I have learned a lot in the past 3-5 years with this whacked out "off the shelf stuff",, frankly I don't want to know that the head I just paid $1700 -$2300 for is +/- 10%, I want the facts.

My recommendation,,,,,, buy a bare set of heads and let a company like TEA or INDYHEAD or CFMPERFORMANCE assemble the heads and port them and then show you the end result with a flow sheet.

Buy a head that works with the Hooker or comparable headers of your choice,,,,, Edelbrock's do this well, Trick Flow does this well, my Dart 215 heads did not fit well with my 2151's.

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Old Jan 22, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Youre ahead of the game with an AFR 180 IMO, both $ (that will be close) and power, no comparison.

No good porting job is cheap, for a ***** out job plan on spending about 1k easy + valve job/aprings, etc
$1500 for AFR 180 heads and about $400 for a good set of 113's. Any additional work is up to you.
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Old Jan 23, 2008 | 02:30 AM
  #27  
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113's will require dished pistons.
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