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I have a 1994 LT1. I searched the threads and I am hessitant about trying to fix this myself. Also I had a few questions:
1.) Which side of the car do you stand on when moving the tenssioner? And which way do I torque the wrench in relation to where I am standing? Up and away from me, or down and towards me? (clockwise or counterclockwise from which viewpoint)
2.) I got one of those Goodyear Gatorback belts. Some of the other threads say those are hard to get on. Mine is says "4060667 6PK1695" on the front of the cardboard in big font. Is that the right belt? The back just says GM 5.7L and the pulley routing matches whats under the hood. I would assume it is as the guy that sold it to me at Autozone also happened to have a 1994 LT1.
3.) That temerature sensor everyone says to be careful around-can I just pull it off or unplug it to get it out of the way? I figured I better ask before attempting since small little things made of plastic tend to break easily.
1. Stand on the pass. side and pull up on the tensioner
2. Sounds like it's the right one.
3. You should unplug the connector, but you can't remove the sensor without draining the antifreeze. Just be careful not to hit it. I find that if you slip it around the crank and the other pulleys except the air compressor and lift the tensioner and work it over the air con pulley that it goes on easy. Robert
I've replaced 3 opti's on 1994's now and on each one, I had to be on the driver's side to remove the tension on the serpetine belt. It takes a 5/8" socket end wrench of some length to get the leverage to move the tensioner.
I highly recommend you borrow or buy a tensioner belt tool. The problem you'll have is that most sockets won't fit the tensioner due to clearance unavailable between the tensioner and the cars frame. So I could not use my breaker bar and a socket. On my first opti swap, I used a long end wrench. Even that was a little difficult. I later bought a tensioner tool from Advance Auto for $23.
Replacing these things, I was on the driver's side and when you install the wrench to the tensioner bolt, you push up or towards the passenger side. If you have the right tool, it's very easy to replace. I have not had any issues avoiding other car components (temp sensor, etc.).
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
I just used a 1/2" plain old breaker bar. You can't get a ratchet head in there. Nothing to it, pull the bar up and slip off the belt. You can compare belts when the old one is off.
AutoZone rents the tensioner tool. You pay a deposit on the tool (about $30) and when you bring it back, you get your deposit back. So effectively the rental is free.
I just used a 1/2" plain old breaker bar. You can't get a ratchet head in there. Nothing to it, pull the bar up and slip off the belt. You can compare belts when the old one is off.
I purchased from "Summit racing" for $20.00, a serpentine belt tool. Its one of the few ten minute jobs. Stand on the drivers side. Have in front of you, the belt diagram.
The only problem I see with standing on the drivers side are the coolandt hoses being in the way. How many degrees approx. do you have to move the wrench? I only have about 20 degrees to work with. There is a lot more on the passenger's side, but from there, I'll have to worry about the coolant sensor.
The only problem I see with standing on the drivers side are the coolandt hoses being in the way. How many degrees approx. do you have to move the wrench? I only have about 20 degrees to work with. There is a lot more on the passenger's side, but from there, I'll have to worry about the coolant sensor.
Also, I just bought a serpentine belt tool.
This was also a problem for me - intake on one side and A/C pipes on the other. The hex head on my tensioner bolt was oriented in such a way that there wasn't room either way to get enough slack. I went back to Sears and exchanged my first tool for another one with a ratcheting head, which worked great.
I suppose I could have run the engine or turned the crank to try again, but where's the fun in that?
On my 1992 LT-1 I always stand on the drivers side and always pull the wrench / tool towards me (i.e. in effect you turn the bolt on the tensioner clockwise as if you were standing at the front of the car).
I have a little 'trick' that I use; a standard open-end wrench on the bolt, and a 22mm large wrench (closed end) hooked over the end of the smaller wrench. In effect this creates an approx 60 degree angle that you need to move the wrenches without fouling any lines. You have to be careful, but once you get the hang of it works every time. Good luck!
I have done it by hand too - need to wear gloves and have a strong back ;-)
I just had to give up for tonight. I have a tenssioner tool, but mine is oriented in such a way where I would have to remove a hose to get enought of an angle. Like a previous poster said, hoses on one side intake on the other-if only I could get one more notch on the bott...I am even using a 12 notch socket-so really I guess I only need a 1/2 of a notch on the bolt. However, my tensioner tool has two pieces where I can connect them at a 90* or 135 or 180 degree angle. Only problem is the other piece which allows me to creat those angle (its about 8" long) has a 1/2 inch drive whereas the long bar has a 3/8" drive. WTF did they make it that way????
Do they make a 5/8" socket with a 1/2" drive?
I could take the hoses off but I am so scared about getting anything wet with that optispark being in that general area of the car.
yes they make a 1/2 drive 5/8 socket. your tensioner rotates like a clock push or pull depending on the side you are on. have you tried perhaps putting the wrench on lower and then pulling it up or down(depending on the side) The old belt should not require as much rotation to remove as it should have stretched some . Good luck they also make a adaptor that will take a 3/8 drive socket and make it fit a 1/2 drive ratchet
Last edited by Livin the Dream; Jan 28, 2008 at 09:03 PM.
Reason: added adaptor
I could not get a tensioner tool here so I made mine with a wrench attached to a pipe.
Works nice, but a tool made for that purpose should be great.
I have a 94 and I stand by the drivers side, and pull the wrench towards me ( drivers side ), that releives the tension.
I can then remove the belt with a little effort.
For instalation I route the belt through almost all the pulleys including AC and alternator but leaving off the tensioner pulley. Just to a side.
I then pull the tensioner and slip the belt. That is easier for me than trying to install it from the top, using the AC and Alternator Pulleys last.
I just had to give up for tonight. I have a tenssioner tool, but mine is oriented in such a way where I would have to remove a hose to get enought of an angle. Like a previous poster said, hoses on one side intake on the other-if only I could get one more notch on the bott...I am even using a 12 notch socket-so really I guess I only need a 1/2 of a notch on the bolt. However, my tensioner tool has two pieces where I can connect them at a 90* or 135 or 180 degree angle. Only problem is the other piece which allows me to creat those angle (its about 8" long) has a 1/2 inch drive whereas the long bar has a 3/8" drive. WTF did they make it that way????
Do they make a 5/8" socket with a 1/2" drive?
I could take the hoses off but I am so scared about getting anything wet with that optispark being in that general area of the car.
I had the same problem, and I turned it into an opportunity: I grinded down a 1/2 inch drive 5/8 socket to be very shallow, shallow enough to easily fit between the frame crossmember and the tensioner. It happens to be very convenient to use this socket elsewhere around there, such as breaking the balancer loose using this on the 1/2 drive part of the serpentine tool and a regular deep socket on the 3/8 drive part to hold the balancer in place. Very useful on the LT4 where there is minimal clearance to the balancer.
Getting the tensioner and socket on and moving it is the hard part. There i just isn't enough room to torque it enought to get the last loop over the alternator.
Getting the tensioner and socket on and moving it is the hard part. There i just isn't enough room to torque it enought to get the last loop over the alternator.
If your not using a 12 pt. socket try that. I can not R/R the belt with a 6 pt.
I have an R-D Racing Camber Brace on my LT4, and had to use a tensioner tool with a crows-foot head - there was just not enough clearance to use a socket.