When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Only mods are a Corsa catback, Mid America MAF housing, open air cleaner lid and K&N filter.
What would 265 rwhp convert to at the crank? The guys at the dyno shop said manual tranmission cars have driveline losses of 13% and automatics are closer to 20%.
At 20% driveline losses, my calculated crank hp equals 331.
Most relatively stock LT1's run about 260-270 RWHP, so you're sounds like it's right where it should be. However, don't get caught up in the "convert to FWHP" stuff, there's just no way of really knowing, and what's the real difference anyway? Besides, based on most numbers, if you want to use those % conversion numbers than all LT1's and LT4's where underrated from the factory anyway.
Nice numbers for your LT-1 USA1LT1
I believe our Corvettes are a bit more efficient than 20%. (I am not starting the great what percentage should I use debate here again )
As I said - I believe 15% to 18% is more realistic.............
That sounds about right to me. The only experience I have however is my own 95A4 on a mustang dyno.
My base run prior to the LT4 Hot Cam Kit was 252 RWHP and after the cam, rockers, timing chain kit, opti, plugs & wires it went up to 292 rwhp. Again this was on a mustang dyno and I don't know if that makes much difference.
pretty conservative dyno to say the least (mustang eddy currant dyno).. 95* day with 90% humidity.. plus the motor is pretty mild.. not much different than stock except for the cid, cam and valve job.. The torque is whats impressive!!
pretty conservative dyno to say the least (mustang eddy currant dyno).. 95* day with 90% humidity.. plus the motor is pretty mild.. not much different than stock except for the cid, cam and valve job.. The torque is whats impressive!!
I used a mustang eddy current dyno and ended up with around 100 more hp than your pull and the dyno guy stopped the pull before the curve peaked. I didn't have a tune on it yet.
So you probably would do better with some head cam work. Since I only have a 355, 2800 stall, A4 and factory cat back with EM LT headers and high flow cats.
Once I get out of he sand box I'm going to get it tuned for the current cam/valvetrain and get the puppy back on the dyno . (didn't plan on getting sent to Baghdad and due to unforseen problems got the car on the road a couple of days before I left so the dyno run was the afternoon before I flew out) The AI 200s and the AI custom cams seem to be the HEAT.
If I find a scanner over here, I'll post the untuned graph.
pretty conservative dyno to say the least (mustang eddy currant dyno).. 95* day with 90% humidity.. plus the motor is pretty mild.. not much different than stock except for the cid, cam and valve job.. The torque is whats impressive!!
I don't understand going to the expense of stroking it, and then leaving so much on the table with such a mild build. But I suppose you wanted stock sound/drivability.
I kinda like it when the grouchy old ladies in my neighborhood grab their little lap dogs up and scowl at me as I go by. They probably think something is seriously wrong with my car to be so loud.
pretty conservative dyno to say the least (mustang eddy currant dyno).. 95* day with 90% humidity.. plus the motor is pretty mild.. not much different than stock except for the cid, cam and valve job.. The torque is whats impressive!!
I put down 339 rwtq with a stock long block. You've got a lot more power hiding in that motor.
When i did it I wanted to just freshen the motor up.. the stroker kit was just about the same cost as stock parts so i figured why not.. I did really need the power (i have another car solely for drag racing). I drive this car to work every day.. its been a great car with a nice sound and a smooth idle.. no problems... shes a dream.. My other car is the monster!!