OK Guys I have a stock 90 Corvette with about 75,000 miles on it. I have been driving it back and forth to work off and on for the past few months until it started this, and have parked it to not do any damage. I had to park it for the last couple weeks outside in Utah with all this snow and so thus it makes it even harder to motivate myself to work on it. Today the hunnydo list is to clean the garage, and I plan to hit it with vigor so I can put the vette back in the garage. She is running like a truck, and rich as hell once it goes into closed loop. You can tell when it does, as the check engine light comes on, and then WAM all of the sudden you have 0 power, and it damn near dies and has a major problem idleing. I shut it off, pull over via coasting, and was very concerned. I thought what the hell, and got out and checked the fluids, and looked to see if there was a way to get it home. I tried to restart it, and it started just fine. No light no nothing and I made it home. I only work 5 miles from home and it too 3 tries to get it here, and get it parked. Well this morning, trying to delay cleaning out the garage till it started to warm up, and I went out to pull my codes. Any chance I can get some advice as to where to start and what to do to fix this pig. Just need the diagostics part, as I can change just about anything on it.

I got the codes pulled with the ALDL and A and B connected, and pulled a Code 32 and Code 44. I know that the only thing I have done to it recently was I changed the Plugs, wires cap and rotor as it had only had one tune up its whole life according to the previous owner, and I must say, he was not a mechanic or even close. He had the middle two plug wires on each side crossed, and had not changed the factory plug under the AC. I have it all back to stock, and have cleaned out the K&N filter. Now if I can fix this, I will tackle the Brake light next. It has new brakes, and new master and is great stopping but the Brake light comes on. First want it to run, so I can move it around in the garage, and driveway, then finish diagnosising what else is wrong.

I know that the codes are O2 Sensor and EGR Valve Problem, but most of the time, that would tell me something about either a bad sensor someplace, or a problem with something unplugged, or something. Like I said it runs perfect until the computer takes full control and it gets all confused. This car was a California car its whole life, and now I am in Utah. I was told that I need to change the O2 Sensors out, to a three wire one, instead of the factory one wire one, but no one even glanced under the hood to tell me that. Just a bench estimate of what is wrong. Once I can get it in the garage, and warm I was going to run to the FSM and run the steps to find out what could be wrong with the EGR and the O2 Sensors, but thought while I am working, I could also let the internet, and all the great people on here help me find out what else could be things to check. I am really tight on cash so there is no chance of me just tossing parts at it till I find the problem. Gotta find out what is wrong first, and then fix it right the first time. I know I have a ton of cash needing to be spent as I am told that the little oil leak I have is not so little as my Oil Pan leaks because it is dented all to hell. If I have to replace the pan, my guess is as tight as things appear all over this car, the engine will need to be picked up some, off the mounts, and if I am lucky I can sneak it out. Otherwise it is going to require a major time and investment. Want it to run, then fix things as it goes, and by spring, I want to replace all the window rubber and door and top rubbers, so I can start driving it again.

 

That is absolute hogwash. Who ever told you that doesn't know what he's talking about. Also, your 1990 car, has but ONE (1) O2 sensor. ("I need to change the O2 Sensors") As you alluded to, follow the trouble shooting charts for each code, in your FSM. Start with the lowest (32) code first. Don't shoot the messenger. More often than not a code 32 is NOT caused by a bad EGR valve.

RACE ON!!!

 

I have just spent the last couple hours taking care of some business and am just now starting the garage. I did check to see that the EGR valve had the vacume line still attached, and the the electrical was still going to the egr sylonoid. (My spelling bites but I will try to fix with spell check.) Anyway, when I reached down to the EGR sylonoid I found it was just laying on the intake, not hooked to anything other than wires and vacume lines. I have not tried any of the checks other than a visual, as it is cold as can be out there. Did I mention I HATE SNOW!.... anyway, I will hit the garage hard, and then once I get the car in the garage, and the heater going out there, I will start to diagnosis this, and will make sure to post my findings on here.

This all started when it got really cold and snowing around here. Anything else I should check?

By the way thank you very much for your response. That is again proof of how great this site is.

 

As stated, you will need a Factory Service Manual to diagnose the codes. It will have a troubleshooting tree to follow and help find the problem.

 

I think he has that covered.

RACE ON!!!

 

He's right you dont need a 3 wire O2 sensor. You usually need something like that if you had mods like headers. The exhaust gas cools down while sitting in traffic and then the car starts to run rich. Not something you have to worry about on a stock engine no matter where you live.

 

Is the car a stick or an Auto? What kind of condition is it in?

I'm sorry for the "hijack" but I have an '06 C6 w/a manual transmission and am THINKING about selling it to get a C4, 1990-1991 for various reasons.

If your car is a stick, in good shape, clean, and "representative" of a '90 (and you get it running correctly) would you be interested in trading cars for a day or two? I live in Park City so it would definitely not happen until May....maybe June at the rediculous rate that it's snowing!!

-Tom

 

Tom this is an automatic, but if you wanna take it for a drive sometime drop me an E-Mail to markselig@yahoo.com. And by the time May comes around, I am positive all the bugs will be worked out. I might even be ready to sell it by then. Never know what might happen. A lot depends on the houseing industry. I work for one of the may production builders as their designer, and I really need this housing boom to start again, or atleast pick up a little.

 

10-4. I'm REALLY looking for a stick, but I'll keep your email addy, and maybe write you come April. I've already gotten two offers to trade; an '84 and a '94. but both are autos.

I appreciate your openess to my idea, and I will be in touch sometime closer to spring time. Again, sorry for the hijack, but I saw "'90" and "Sandy UT" so I had to pitch my sale.

-Tom

 

Ok guys, Finally had the time, and the weather cooperating and went to start checking things out. First thing I did was to check the electrical connection between the EGR Solinoid. First problem is there. The weatherpack connector is trash, and I am pretty sure the solinoid is junk too. It is just laying on my intake, flopping around, and every time I hit a bump, it will move around I am sure. I think it is supposed to bolt to the Thermostat Housing. I am going to bolt it down, and if I am going in that far, I am going to replace the thermostat. I want to replace the connector too, as the Green spongy thing that keeps it water tight is melted on one side. Both the plastic covers for the metal points are broke off, and I had to use a pair of needle nose to get them out of the silonoid. I then plugged in the connector with no resistance at all. Then I picked up the silonoid, and when I turned it upside down the plug just fell out. Looked to me that the connection is not being made there. I pryed the little things open a tiny bit, and cleaned them off. Then plugged it in and could feel a little friction as I put it in. The I tried the gravity test, and it stayed. Then since the battery was disconnected this whole time, when I reconnected the battery, the codes were cleared. I took it for a drive, and it seemed to run just fine. Then I hit a bump at an intersection and all of the sudden the check engine light came back on, and it started running bad again. I want to start by replacing the connector.

Where can I get a two wire weatherpack connector for this, and where can I get the silonoid? Used would work as long as it is a good one, so I can make sure that is the problem.

I am going to also replace the valve cover gaskets on this thing really soon. Looks like I have some work ahead of me.