C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

non egr headman headers? help plz

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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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Default non egr headman headers? help plz

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...10002_54816_-1

they say non egr and Without smog injection or injection heads?


what are injection heads?

what probs will I have if I run this headers on a 91 l98?

thanks
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:29 PM
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Those headers have no provision for hooking up the metal tubes used for injecting air into the exhaust. The AIR pump generates airflow into the tubes.

Hedman makes a header with AIR tubes and an EGR pipe connection so you can retain all of the smog equipment. If you live where emissions testing is required (and your profile is not filled out so there is no way to tell you if you will be violating your state's emissions laws) the 68440 header will not be emissions legal.

Also, the 68440 header is painted. The paint will quickly burn off leaving bare metal and a good chance of rust forming. You might want to look at the Elite p/n 68448 (thermal coated, no AIR) or the Street 68487 (ceramic coated, AIR and EGR connections). The ceramic or thermal coated headers will do a much better job of keeping the tubes from rusting and will reduce the amount of heat radiating to engine components and wiring. The 68448 header also has thicker tubes (14ga) and 3/8" flanges.

BTW, the 68440 header is $10 cheaper at Summit Racing
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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I live in NC, here we only do emissions on 96+ cars and trucks. so emissions is no concern for me.

How will it effect how my car runs without the air tubes/pump or the egr? My plan is to run the 68440 headers with ture duels, no cats, an x pipe, and magnaflow mufflers. how would a set up such as this effect the computer on a otherwise stock l98?
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:07 PM
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I have some 68440, complete POS headers. I mean they work but the quality sucks, Under the car i can see where these were cut and rewelded on the collector just to fit on the car. They also look like hell after a few miles. Here's a pic of my motor just so you can see them.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by lushdrunk
I live in NC, here we only do emissions on 96+ cars and trucks. so emissions is no concern for me.

How will it effect how my car runs without the air tubes/pump or the egr? My plan is to run the 68440 headers with ture duels, no cats, an x pipe, and magnaflow mufflers. how would a set up such as this effect the computer on a otherwise stock l98?
You will clearly see an increase in peformance with the headers and good free-flowing exhaust even with no other mods.

You will need to install a heated O2 sensor. The OEM O2 sensor installed in the collector will not get hot enough at slow speeds or stop and go driving to allow the ECM to go into closed loop. Open loop running will cause a rich mixture as the ECM will call for more fuel and you can see some rough running and a definite fuel smell.

Adding a heated sensor is not a big deal to do, just weld an O2 bung (available from either Jegs or Summit) into the collector and wire it in.

Do a search on "heated O2 sensor" for info on how it has to be wired to make it work. Black wire goes to the existing connector, the two white wires go to a ignition-switched 12V power source and the other to ground. Get a Bosch p/n 13190 heated O2 sensor.

With the AIR pump no longer needed, you should get an AIR puimp eliminator and remove all of the plumbing. Leave the EGR valve in place. Doesn't hurt anything and keeps the ECM from throwing a code.

Also, you will see a much higher noise level (a good thing! )but you may see some interior resonance at certain RPM's.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 10:26 PM
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thanks guys!
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 12:27 AM
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He's not kidding about running rich without a heated 02. This is a project i need to do myself. With a 1 wire it takes a good 5 minutes of driving before the motor smooths out and runs like it should.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by racebum
He's not kidding about running rich without a heated 02. This is a project i need to do myself. With a 1 wire it takes a good 5 minutes of driving before the motor smooths out and runs like it should.
Mine runs rich as hell with the one wire. I really need to upgrade.
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 01:35 AM
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hey c4cruiser, i looked up the 13190 and found them for as low as $35, my question is that it lists the sensor as a 3 wire, not a 4. I have a spare 02 from my Acura but aren't OBD2's different? I see one black and 2 whites in the pic. Did you buy this sensor? Am i seeing a bogus pic?
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by racebum
hey c4cruiser, i looked up the 13190 and found them for as low as $35, my question is that it lists the sensor as a 3 wire, not a 4. I have a spare 02 from my Acura but aren't OBD2's different? I see one black and 2 whites in the pic. Did you buy this sensor? Am i seeing a bogus pic?
I think I confused you with the 2 "whites" It is a 3-wire sensor. The two white wires are interchangable for hot/ground. One to 12v, the other to a ground. Sorry 'bout that!
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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Makes a good deal more sense now, i'm ordering one. Now i just have to search for the popular wire to grab.
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