I am replacing plugs and wires in my stocker 1985 I could use some advice on

No i am not racing and no it is not a daily driver it is my weekend mid life crisis (so my wife says)

What plugs are best?
What wires to are best?

how hard are these plugs to get in and out?

also

where is the computer (i am replacing the chip)

and where is the fuel filter?


Let me know rock on guys!

 

Seems the consenus on plugs are AC Delco (my favorite) or NGK. NAPPA is a good place to get wires..OEM and proper length. Alot of guys remove the passenger side wheel well for access, makes it easier.

Not sure if the 85s ECM is located in the same place as an 87, but on most it is above the hush panel on the drivers side.

Fuel filter passenger side behind tire.

Do yourself a favor and get a Factory Service manual year specific, Ebay is where I got mine, for anyone working on their cars it's a must.

 

If you are going to spend much time working on your Corvette, you really need a FSM (Factory Service Manual. All a spark has to do is to allow electricity to jump the gap. The cheapest plug is the best plug. The exotic metal (platinum, etc) plugs can have a longer life, if you don't like working on your car, but they won't provide one ounce of better performance or mileage.

The better plug wires are those that have a "spiral wound core". They don't get better, for a engine with cost. There are good wire sets for $35.00 - $40.00. Don't pay over $60.00.

Changing plugs is fairly easy. The more times you do it the easier it gets.

The computer is above the hush panel on the passenger side. (see FSM) Why are you changing the chip? Is the stock chip defective? Have you properly trouble shooted (shot?), the problem? You have bought one of those worthless "performance" chips, I hope.

The fuel filter is under the car, inboard of the front of the right door. (See FSM).

RACE ON!!!

 

Hi I have an 85 4+3 manual,

I changed to AC Delco Rapifire and they are great.

The ECM is on the passenger side under the dash. You have to crawl a bit but it gets out ok.
You have to buy yourself a workshop manual or the Heynes or Helmers.

If you should rechip it don't buy the Hypertech ones they onlychange the fan and temp due to a thermostat change. They are too generic.

There are some other chipmakers that are good. TPIS and Fasterproms.
I think also Fastchip. PCM for less do not sell proms for the 85 type of ECM any longer I have heard.

You just specify what you want.

I changed some of my engine.
Cam, long tube headers and catback. Large tube runners and ported plenum. I have the bad cast ironheads but have ported them and also the intake manifold all this to see what I can get out of the engine and now I am over 300hp.
Good luck

 

I was happy with the stock wires. They fire just fine, are good quality and last a long time. That is not the most enjoyable job due to the hidden routing of the wires. Also, you don't really need the 'special wires' which can cause radio noise and other RF problems, if not properly shielded.

I have been able to repair many plug wires. The case was that, the spark plug end, being removed a few times, had internally pulled apart some. While not apparent from the outside appearance, I found that cutting off about 1/2" from the spark plug end, then redoing the termination gave me greatly improved (lowered) resistance. As I was probably discarding them anyway, redoing the bad ones was free. Check them with an ohmmeter; they should be rather close in readings. A squirt of WD40 (a cleaner) inside the boot does a nice job of allowing a small screwdriver to move around and free the wire from the boot. The WD goes away in short order, unlike an oil product which might cause misfiring.

For plugs, I like a large electrode and am less concerned with the material. I was unimpressed with the Bosch platinums which have a tiny electrode.

The '85 is not so bad, but the rears can get interesting. I have used a box wrench to loosen the spark plug socket in tight areas. Just be careful not to crack the porcelin.

THe ECM (computer) is behind the bolster, above the passenger footwell. There is a trim panel underneath the dash that is rather easy to remove. Two 10mm nuts hold the ECM in place.

THere are two. One is a 'sock' inside the tank, on the fuel pump intake pipe. The other is inside the frame, about under the passenger's right foot. Most likely the frame moounted filter is tthe only one you need to change.[/quote]

I'd not bother with the Haynes or any other manual, which is a waste of money. Get the Helms; period.

You might consider a fuel pressure gauge and a digital VOM. Digital meters will not damage the current-sensitive circuits you might probe b/c they do not send as much current through them, which analog meters need for needle movement.

If you have the 4+3, regularly change the ATF and filter inside. It's a great unit IF maintained. I do it every 2-3 oil changes.

My understanding of most chips is that they alter the WOT settings and may require premium fuel, due to a slightly altered spark advance. The factory chip is more forgiving and works great until you start changing cams or other serious mods. I carefully read the fine print to understand the 'snake oil' claims on ANY performance product.