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You know a friend of mine says the same thing, but here's the deal. If you know the tach is off by 500 then just adjust your shifting accordingly. In my case the tach needle is just about to touch the vertical trim between the tach and the speedo when it hits the rev limiter. I know that so I shift just before that. It's not like it's gonna be off 500 one day and 100 the next.
Anyway, I have thought about the shift light, hidden in the A/C vent. As far as an aftermarket tach, it's not worth butchering the inside of the car IMHO.
I wonder if you could just remove the needle and reposition it so that it reads accurately at redline. I seem to remember watching one of those tnn gearhead shows where they replaced a gauge panel with a different color one and they just marked all the needle positions, removed the needles, replaced the "paper" panel and put the needles back on, so it seems like it should be doable.
Strangely, many C4's experience a progressive drift in the tach getting off. I think it has to do with a resistor cooking and losing its resistance. It conditions the signal. Do a seach on tachs, and there was a long post a while back.
Lee
I have the way-cool digital dash. I just put in a MSD Digital6 Plus ignition. I set the rev limiter to 5500 to start out with. The dash only shows 5000 when the rev limiter cuts in. I would tend to think the MSD box is correct and the engine is at 5500. So I'm thinking that's about how far off my tach is. I did just buy a scan tool so I can check it with that also but my car is tucked in now for the long winter sleep, bummer.
I have a new Auto-Meter tach on the 95 and it shows 200 rpm lower than the factory tach. Now, I don't know whick one to trust. I may send in the Auto-Meter for a calibration check. Sid.
The ECM is only counting pulse rate from the dist so I'm confused at why our tachs are off.
I could see how an analog Tach could read high but our digi dash tachs should only be off on the low side and then only if the ECM misses a pulse or two.
I've not seen the tach signal on a scope but would think the signal conditioner is only a (relatively) low pass circuit to remove any spikes. If it triggers off one plug it would be 50Hz at 6,000rpm and only 400Hz if it triggers off each plug fire.
Does anyone have a clue what's inside the conditioner module?
I like the idea of a shift light behind the A/C vent.
NOTE: My error Gordon says there are two pulses (a large and a small one) per fire so the max frequency is 800Hz at 6,000rpm.