I must agree to some point on this. I have a 420 hp engine running 10.6:1 compression with an new EOM type unit that I paid much less than $400.00 for. I have a 180 degree therm. and it runs no more than 186 degrees on the highway in the hot summer months here in the mid-west when the temps. get over 90 degrees with high humidity; much cooler in the fall months. I was told when I did my engine build that expensive radiators are better suited for older muscle cars that could use the more efficient technology. I'm glad I did not spend the $ on the radiator since I had plenty of cash going in other directions. You do need to check for debris in the radiator area now and then.

 

thanks guys

 

 

you don't need a fancy overpriced aftermarket radiator, you need a stock replacement.

got mine, GM, new old stock, $99 from an ebay seller.

 

ya i just want to make sure my car is not going to get extremely hot like it did last summer on the hot days even if i am sitting in traffic. But if replacing the stock radiator with stock that would be nicee

 

Did you pull the rad to see if it has a bunch of debris in front of it?Bet that is your problem,you can also have your fans adjusted to come on sooner by chip or sensor.then pop a good 180* stat in it.

 

no i havent checked it there was debris in front of the radiator but i am sure there is. I was thinking about getting a stock radiator new and dual spal fans that come on sooner.

 

http://www.speedhound.com/dewitts.html#c4

 

If the core leak is next to one of the tanks, it could be a gasket giving up the ghost. A skilled radiator shop can fix that problem, but the money would be better spent buying a new radiator. If the leak is in a tube, the answer is no. It's cheaper to buy a new radiator than fix the old one. (Brazing/welding aluminum tube is an art form that few have mastered. Most just cut & seal off the ends of the tube where the leak was.) In an emergency, you can try JB Weld and other such patches, be eventually, the best solution is a new radiator.

DeWitt's makes a great aftermarket, all aluminum radiator; however, if you just want a stock-type replacement with a lifetime guarantee at a good price, try www.radiator.com.

 

i just need a radiator that will cool my car if a stock one with a spal fan will do the trick then that is what i will do. i just don't want to spend crazy money on a radiator if i dont need to

 

 

I have a DeWitts in my 95 LT1. I noticed that the temp is just about the same as my stock radiator. I am using the stock 180 dg. thermostat. (about 200 dg. water temp.) If I wanted it cooler I would use a 160 stat. but that is no good in NY weather

 

thanks

 

bump

 

 

I put a Ron Davis in mine. They're not cheap, but they are incredibly well-made. I was nothing but impressed when I picked it up and inspected it. This is similar to the one I have after a quick Google Image search;



I needed something with better cooling than the stock unit because of the HOT Phoenix summers, when it 120+ degrees outside.

 

 

I ordered one of these for my son's Camaro. They screwed up the order and sent the wrong one. I called them on it and they said they'd order another one, but I have to pay, again. They said they would re pay me after they receive the wrong radiator. Shifty company.

 

There is more to the story. This company said it would ship the radiator so that it would get here within 3-4 days. The UPS tracking notice said it won't be here until Mar 17. That's 5 days from now. Then they said the reason it will be late is that it was on back order, but their site shows in stock. I would not order from these guys, unless you feel lucky. I'll post a buyer's alert if they screw it up any more.

 

I don't recall your email or my response with no answer, but I'll try to answer it now...Yes, a leak in an aluminum radiator can be repaired.
The method to repair would depend a lot on the type and cause of the leak and the person doing the repair. The cooling tubes are .017 wall aluminum and most people wouldn't even think of trying to weld on these and the shops that try usually blow a hole 10X as big as the leak. My welders have welded punctures many times but it does take a very skilled aluminum welder and hi-tech machines.
Two part epoxy is designed to bond to aluminum and it is a very reliable repair as a second option. Most radiator shops choose this method because there is no risk of making the leak any worse. There are epoxies specifically designed for this however, I found that the simple piston pump package you can get at the hardware store works very well. I do not recommend JB weld on aluminum as it is way to hard and does not expand with the aluminum. While some may cringe at the thought of a "patch" fix, epoxy was used by Ford motor company as a standard practice in making the aluminum radiators for many years and Griffin still does today. Our manufacturing process provides better brazing results than was done in the past and therefore we do not need to use epoxy.
If anyone decides to use epoxy, make sure the area is clean and dried. I would drain the radiator and have it pressure tested to verify the exact location of the leak. The most common mistake in epoxy repairing is everyone uses way too much. One drop will fix 99% of the leaks. I would clean the area with a good aluminum cleaner and blow it off with air. Then heat the area with a propane torch to burn off any left over anti-freeze. Just warm it up, you are not going to weld anything. A heat gun works really well. While the spot is still warm, put a drop on the hole or leak area, the heat will make the epoxy flow like water. You can also use a vacuum to "suck" the epoxy into the hole, but that not manditory. Let it fully harden according the instructions and retest. Remember, one to two drops is all it takes.