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I am contemplating a piston and bearing swap and have started browsing through the world of different pistons. i know most always say go forged, and i agree, but i wanted to know if any of you out there are shooting a healthy dose of nitrous at hypereutectic pistons.. and not the stock but a set of KB T6 Hypereutectics. these are supposed to be stronger then the OE design from the reading i've done. now i would like to get some first hand experience from the forum. any piston suggestions are welcomed providing its first hand experience, i have already read almost all i could find on pistons, but adds will always be biased, i want some facts and testimonials. thanks a million, i will most likely go for a .030" size and have the rest of the block freshened up with some stronger internals. any ideas guys?
Dont waste your money on Keith Crack they are no better then stock pistons if you are going to use NOS, we have had no luck with them.
I would just use the ones that I have and if they go, then do it the right way and get SRP or something like that.
Jay, i already planned on doing just that.... but i would like to have what i need standing by so im prepared for the big pop when it comes, i imagine a big 200 shot outta finish the stockers off when the time comes... also, would it be adviseable to just swap pistons? if so i might consider going ahead with the swap in the near future... i do not want to spray more then 150-175, the 200 was a joke so don't start in on me guys..... but if the rods and crank will hold that much on a monthly basis for a while i might consider this as a cost effective alternate to a complete rebuild at the moment. let me know what ya think and what you might charge to do the machining on somehting like that!
Do it right the first time. Get a set of srps and then give it all the nitrous you think the bottom end will hold. In another car, I ran a hyper piston from keith black and got away with a 150 shot. i didn't use the juice very often otherwise I am sure the hyper pistons would not have held up. Now I run srp forged pistons with a 200 shot and have no worries.
If you are not throwing more than a 200 shot at it, then go with SRP or TRW pistons. If you are going more, then only consider true J&E pistons or Ross. I blew my old motor because of detonation that was using SRP pistons. I am rebuilding with true J&E.
If I was going to use NOS on my car I would get me a dry system that can go from say 100 to 250hp and just run the stock pistons, but I would not go over 125 on them but you can go over that when you get the rest done.
and if you would pop one or two before you go all out then I would just get me a stock one to replace them, we do that all the time with NOS engines or NA engines.
The pistons will be ok if the engine does not detonat, even JE or Ross will let go if you do that.
If you are looking for good pistons for NOS then you want some that have a lot of meat at the top.
People that make NOS systems tell you to take out a lot of time or run a lot of fuel to be safe, but if you want to get the most out of your NOS then you tune it like a carb.
Wet systems are good systems and you can tune them really good too but on a dry system you have that computer to help you out if it is going lean but you have to have a good fuel pump to make sure both systems have plenty fuel.
If you go to a 125 shot you will have over 500 RWTQ and about 475 RWHP that looks like plenty to me, your RWTQ will be the most right when you hit it.
Well Im off for lunch hope this helps a little.
The bottom end is not the limiting factor on nitrous hp. Your pistons and comp ratio are. Actually, I suspect the comp ratio is the real limiting factor.
Nothing in your engine (or any other) will handle the detonation from nitrous. Detonation breaks pistons, blows head gaskets and fatigues the bottom end. It should be avoided at all times.
The other danger with nitrous is from going lean. Do not run the engine to the stock rev limiter with nitrous on. The stock computer cuts off the fuel which means the engine will go lean when you hit the rev limiter. I'd be conservative on the tuning and timing as well.
From my experience Ross Racing Pistons are arguably the best aftermarket pistons available to the general public. Ross pistons are matched and balanced to within .5 grams. Ross sends you a full data sheet with each piston set. Top notch materials and attention to detail. You can get off the shelf or custom made pistons, built to your specs (NO2, Turbo, etc.). Customs are not as much $$$ as you would think.
I run Ross pistons in a turbocharged LEV at 22psi boost. I spin it to 6500 rpm. Talk to R.C.@Ross.
I've run both JEs and SRPs. Both were great. The JEs made a lot more noise when cold than the SRPs. Cold piston rattle can make you nuts.
On a side note, I've seen three LT-1s bite the dust running the NOS LT-1 dry system. Everyone thinks the PCM will save them and keep the system rich via the O2 sensors. NOT!
Chris, I have been using nitrous on my current car and a bunch of others for a long time. I spray 150, I have a friend with a 96 Z-28 with a stock bottom end that has been spraying 175 for close to 2 years ( car runs 10.70's and this guy races his car 2-3 times per month) If you keep enough fuel in the cylinders you wont have a problem. We both run NOS Dry systems, we both have walbro 255@80psi fuel pumps and 30lb SVO injectors. When switching your pump and injectors, you will need to tune the nitrous kit (playing with different jet sizes in the vacuum "T" ).
If you are gonna switch pistons I would suggest the SRP's or J&E's the stock rods and crank are up to the task but I would use good ARP hardware when you re assemble the rotating assembly.
I don't have a ton of experience with engine parts selection,
but the best I can tell you is that with Hypereutectic pistons
your engine shop MUST follow mfgr's clearance instructions.
All too often I've heard of engines with Hyp. pistons literally
pulling their tops off.
Go with a good forged pistons.
we both have walbro 255@80psi fuel pumps and 30lb SVO injectors. When switching your pump and injectors, you will need to tune the nitrous kit (playing with different jet sizes in the vacuum "T" ).
MVR-Mike, That's a good point. The cars I spoke of were all on stock fuel systems. The guys with upgraded fuel systems and SVO injectors seem to be doing fine.
Aloha,
Mike
I'm running KB hyper pistons with 10.5:1 comp on 91 pump gas. I am avoiding nitrous for fear of blowing the gasket or burning a piston in a lean condition. I really should have gotten some forged pistons.
I like the idea of a dry system since it gives an even amout of fuel to each cylinder unlike a wet system. With the long plenum in an LT-1/L98 intake it is very easy for fuel to get dispersed un even causing a rich condition in some cylinders and lean in others. If you plan on spraying out of the hole and at low RPM a wet system can also be a problem due to inadequate intake velocity. If you are gonna go big (over 175) I would recommend a 2 stage (possibly one wet, one dry) or go with a direct port fogger system.