Check this out!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiCAJ8ULnaI

 

Link does'nt work

 

Link not working

 

Try here!!!!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTJjqr0QbIk

 

Don't get it? I will say I took my vette in there for the last change.....left and noticed oil temps were a little high, got home, checked the oil and it was 1 qt. low, back I went and they added a qt.
Gotta watch em.

 

I fixed it!

 

First, joel takes it deep from his boyfriend.

Second. How did the TV guys know that the lube guys were gonna' suggest a fuel filter? That they marked beforehand???

Third, who takes their vette to Jippy lube?

Don't do the local lube joint's 1-hr oil change.

A few years ago, I was changin' my E-250 [yeah Ford ], and I had bought the metric thread instead of the standard thread. The oil was done drainin', and I had filled the filter to re-install. Wrong one! I put the plug back in, headed to the retailer, got back :45 later, installed the filter, and pulled the drain plug to see if any more juice would drain. I'm guessin' that I got 3/4 of another quart. That's the Campbell's oil too - the chunky stuff. THAT is the most important quart to get out when you do the O/C.

NEVER let the oil drain for less than an hour in your vette. 10-minute oil change? Not even in my V-1 powered, non-fuel injected, 1 speed, dual exhaust 22" pusher lawn mower.

And I didn't mention... I use the pre-change flush. It says it solves deposits. If it does, good. If it don't, no problem. The benefit, IMO, is that it decreases viscosity, and drains faster and better. Faster drain means more of the bottom jam will get carried off.

< Message edited by cwb -- 10/7/2007 7:29:53 PM >

Wizard out...............

 

Even the oil chunks in my old POS Geo came out in less than an hour.
I wait about 5 minutes for draining, never had any real oil sludge build up in any car I ever took care of though.

Edit: The teenagers at a Jiffy lube in Louisville, KY left the front diff drain plug out of my friends Grand Cherokee, both ends locked up at different times on him, Jiffy paid for the front diff, but would not believe they were also responsible for the rear. NEVER take your car to a Jiffy lube

 

If they left the front plug out, they're not responsible for the rear

I saw the video and I'm pretty surprised, honestly. I'm an advocate for doing your own work, but 90% of the Corvette owners I've met shouldn't be anywhere near a toolbox unless it only contains a buffer and exotic waxes.

Oh well. I wonder what the lawsuit fallout was like on that story. I imagine everyone in the last year who had jiffy lube do service is lawyering up.

-- Joe

 

I would never take mine to a spiffy lube.

 

My $.02 on this one. A pre-change flush is fine, but don't use anything caustic like Gunk brand motor flush. Use something detergent only. I dump a quart of ATF in my car and drive it a few miles to warm the oil up and clean everything, then it drains plenty fast and clean. The caustic motor-flushes leave traces of acid in your motor. When I redid my 383 the builder saved my engine bearings, and asked me if I used stuff like motor flush. He showed me the bearings and they were etched in places, not spun but acid-etched. he said it's from motor flushes like that. Bad for cams too. Anyway, ATF is fine for a detergent flush and it's cheaper too. Just throwin' it out there.


The worst part about Jiffy Lube is teh stuff you can't ever prove. I know a bunch of guys that had JiffyLube over tighten their drain plugs so the threads galled the next time they came out. Unless you go to the same JiffyLube every time they won't claim responsibility for that one. On my boss's Toyota pickup they threw away his skidplate (you have to remove it to change the oil) and he didn't find out for months and then it was too late.

Going to JiffyLube is like using a Fram filter and recycled WalMart oil in your vette. Honestly, for a couple extra bucks find a reputable local service place. You don't need to spontaneously change your oil, just make an appointment for a time that's good and get it done.

 

I father took his STS cadillac to Jiffylube and they pull OIL in the power steering system. Ended up with $4000 in damage to the car.... Jiffy paid for the repairs.

 

That's pretty interesting there...

The only rap I've heard on those pre-change flush gigs, is that they eat seals and gaskets.

I couldn't go for that. I COULD go for that the stuff solves deposits ALREADY THERE, SITTIN' NEXT TO A SEAL, and gettin' loosened up, and THEN allowin' a leak to start where a worn seal was plugged by motor jam. And that ain't SO bad.

But caustic? Acidic? Or Basic? What's the molecular structure of the stuff?

I bought an '02 1 ton bowtie, and clocked 195k on the thing, with o/c every 5K, WITH flush (usually gunk brand) every time, and it burned clean as a whistle when I gave it up...

 

Naphthenic Petroleum Distillate 7 - 13 %
Petroleum distillate, Aliphatic 60 - 100 %
Surfactant 1.0 - 5.0 by volume

First two are hydrocarbons C-H

Surfactant is kinda' like soap. That could make for mild basic chemical - I can't see it etching metal - soft or otherwise, even at 5% strength

 

Dunno. Doesn't get much softer than the bearings, but I'm just goin by what the machinist told me. He said ATF is good for a motor flush, so that's what I use now.

 

I just pull the plug and wait until its a very slow drip, probably 30-45 min later. Never seen the chunky stuff except for once on another car.

 

Hey there D...

I'm bein' facetious when I say chunky. I mean the stuff that's dropped outta' suspension, to the pan bottom.

Get some velocity on the drain is probably the best way to get out as much of that jam as possible. Just my way tho', if I could snake a kerosene hose into the casting recesses for extra flushin', I'd do it...

 

2 Things I'd never do:
a. Go to a quick lube place (and rarely is anyone working there actually a mechanic).
b. Use any kind of engine flush, especially Gunk!

If you can't drain your engine oil out in 10 minutes, especially with a floor jack, you've got a bigger internal engine problem. I usually pour an extra 1/2 quart of fresh oil through before putting the drain plug back in, just to chase the old stuff out of the pan.

 

Oh yeah. Warm it up, so it drains better, then pour some cold in, to stop the hot stuff from drainin' as good (and only on one head to boot, unless you got a filler neck in EACH valve cover ).

:10 minutes huh? No. You put your plug in after 10 minutes, let it set for :50 more, and pull the plug again.

You'll get another half a quart. Promise. Say not, and I'll call ya' the bearer of a tall tale.

And please enlighten me on Gunk flush.

Wizard out...

 

Where ya' at there, c4boy?

I'm kinda' hopin' to get the scoop on Gunk there from ya'...

Especially since YOU probably have every ingredient right now pumpin' through your journals, i. e.; hydrocarbons and detergent