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havent tried them myself but i hear the work pretty good.i use the same type of material at work to insulate wiring in ovens and it works great for that. the temp modulates from 525-600 degrees in there
I bought some from Thunder Racing but have not been able to use them because I have MSD wires. Some of them have the 90 deg boots and the socks will not fit over them.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Feb 21, 2008 at 09:25 PM.
Do they work or do your plug boots still get soft?
Only soft? I'd take soft any day.
Mine were burning through and arcing. The expensive Taylor socks made it worse. Insulators slow the travel of heat... including out and away from hot parts. Same was true of the starter 'blanket'.
I switched to porcelin boots, like, I hear, snow machines use. I bought a whole new set of wires with he porcelin ends. Pricey, but a huge improvement.
Straight plug heads and ANY headers suck in that area.
Mine were burning through and arcing. The expensive Taylor socks made it worse. Insulators slow the travel of heat... including out and away from hot parts. Same was true of the starter 'blanket'.
I switched to porcelin boots, like, I hear, snow machines use. I bought a whole new set of wires with he porcelin ends. Pricey, but a huge improvement.
Straight plug heads and ANY headers suck in that area.
Where did you buy them..........sounds like a great idea........going to a snowmoble shop to buy eight porcelin boots and them shelling out 70 bucks for a new wire kit sounds real $$$$$$$.........BUT that would do the trick.........thanks
wait.........does the heated porcelin boot burn the wire?.......inside the boot?
Last edited by lead foot 85 vet; Feb 22, 2008 at 10:29 AM.
I bought the soft type at NAPA and am using them to shield the EGR tube on my 86. After several hours of use, they seem to be holding up fine and look much better than the original. I haven't tried grabbing the EGR tube and the header to check the temperature difference. They also won't flake like the originals.
The reason I use them is because I extended the tube to go over tall valve covers and it is not a very elegant looking solution. The covers manage to hide the extension from inspectors.
If anyone wants to try this route, you will note that they have a small diameter opening, too small for the EGR tube. With side cutters, make a small cut in the end of the folded over tube at the circular wire. Rotate the wire until you find the joint, bend it open, and work it out of the cut. With the wire removed, they will open much wider.
I have run the socks the Jacobs porcelin boots. The socks work for a short period of time, then they too will allow the plug boost to get soft and arc right through the sock. At one time, I even put foil inside the sock over the boot. Still no workie.
The Jacobs porcelin boots work well, but the plug "click" into the terminal end is not near as positive as the traditional plug boots. I have found plug wires off (or nearly off), with no real way to access the receiver. Jacobs does a fine job of "glueing" the plug wire into the inside of the ceramic boot.
L98 angle plug and TPIS 1 3/4" headers. #7 and #6 were always the issues.
I'm using them on a couple cylinders, they work. I bought them from Summit.
I had to cut one to make it fit, but I made sure the sock was the only thing in contact with the header....for that reason I bought the highest temperature sock they had.
cut the flanges off an old set of headers (or get new flanges from a DIY header kit from speedway motors,etc), and an extra set of header gaskets...use to "space out" your headers abt 3/8''
does the heated porcelin boot burn the wire?.......inside the boot?
Nope.
Sorry for the delay. Also, I have tightened up the clip-on action. The wires got loose in the porcelain boots, so I pulled them out and re-siliconed them back in after a slight crimping.
I been using dei fire hose (rated to *2500f) over the wire about 3'' long above the boot. I get enough clearnce w/the boot itself except at # 6 (dipstick ) to the headers (hooker s.comp. and afr l98 angle heads).