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Tonight I just used Seafoam in my 99 F-150 with 130,000 miles on it. I put half a bottle in the oil and then fed the brake vac line 1/3 of a bottle. Sucked it up pretty fast. It never stalled but it did choke a little. Turned it off then went for a spin 15 minutes later. A nice improvement in throttle response. To my surprise it did not smoke out the neighbor hood. Maybe i needed to add more then a third of a can unless my motor wasnt that dirty. I plan on using it in the gas soon.
You need to pour enough of the Seafoam into the intake (pcv or brake booster).. to the point where is just about stalls for a few seconds or does die.. and the shut it down right away if it has not died... This is to get the seafoam to soak the intake, runners, valves and pistons.. By letting it soak the parts.. it will then lossen the carbon and when you start it up.. it will burn or boil off and that will cause the smoke show.!
From: Flint Michigan, #2 in unemployment, #3 in Violent crimes
I can only say one thing about it.
it is designed for use in a boat for clearing out the gunk that builds up from low speed constant running and when you take it out of storage, cleaning up the gunk, or storing, stabizing the fuel....
a boat uses a car engine, with a different transmission.
boaters have been using it for YEARS.......
it is still on the market..(where is slick 50? duralube? they sell it at big lots)
Last edited by Overboost; Feb 27, 2008 at 08:40 PM.
Why in God's name would anyone throw an untested(at least by the FDA)product into an engine.The arguments about Dino versus synthetic and all the associated problems should speak volumes about this.Synthetics are highly detergent and will clean out older engines and exacerbate any latent leak problems.That's all seafoam does and most of the time you end up with problems you never knew existed.As mentioned with older engines it will strip your injectors of their protective coating and God knows what it does to bearings and rings.
Like most additives it's a con job.While your at it throw in some water wetter,rad seal,ring sealant for older engines,duralube,prolong,lucas engine tune up,and every other piece of crap on the shelf.
If you think your engine is coked up run it at a fast idle and spray a few pints of water through it.End of problem and any residue boils off.
Now here come the Pro seafoamers
You need to pour enough of the Seafoam into the intake (pcv or brake booster).. to the point where is just about stalls for a few seconds or does die.. and the shut it down right away if it has not died... This is to get the seafoam to soak the intake, runners, valves and pistons.. By letting it soak the parts.. it will then lossen the carbon and when you start it up.. it will burn or boil off and that will cause the smoke show.!
So why not just use water?And save a bunch of money?
When i used to fly my boss around in his Augusta between florida and the Bahamas if we saw some precipitation we would go right for it.Rain and turbines=good
Anyone here old enough to remember bi annual decokes?In my youth I used to charge people to pull heads,change gaskets,scrape that **** off piston heads and valves.All I ever did with my cars was flush them with water.
Stick this one up for posterity,"you can't teach a young guy old tricks."
I am not saying that water will not work.. as I have done it back in the late 60's and early 70's myself. But I can say I have not has as quick success with water as I have with Seafoam.
But with water, it will burn or steam off very quicky. It may or may not get all of the carbon build off right away and may require a few applications.
Seafoam being a oil based additive and is designed to loosen the carbon build up while it soaks... and will take a little longer to burn off (as by the great smoke show) and allow it to continue working as the engine heats up until it is completely burned off.
You have to admit that years of research and advanment in technology does make life good.
But I guess one of these day.. Seafoam will cause some failure on me too. But until then.. It has save me a lot of time and money (rebuild, take down, refreshes, etc) using it. I have brought some very ruff running cars, work on them (including using Seafoam) and have turned around and have sold them for a profit.. to allow me the life pleasures of my hobby (cars !).
All I can say that it has worked for me many times.
No comparison between water and SeaFoam! Think there is? try running some water through your fuel tank!!! SeaFoam is not only a carbon remover it is a fuel system cleanser. Ive used it everytime before going through a smog test...ALL but 1 time, the only time I've failed a smog test! Went home, SeaFoamed it, changed the oil and passed the smog. Water was OK for spraying a little into the intake to help carbon removal....but technology in fuels and additives have come along way.
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Why in God's name would anyone throw an untested(at least by the FDA)product into an engine.The arguments about Dino versus synthetic and all the associated problems should speak volumes about this.Synthetics are highly detergent and will clean out older engines and exacerbate any latent leak problems.That's all seafoam does and most of the time you end up with problems you never knew existed.As mentioned with older engines it will strip your injectors of their protective coating and God knows what it does to bearings and rings.
Like most additives it's a con job.While your at it throw in some water wetter,rad seal,ring sealant for older engines,duralube,prolong,lucas engine tune up,and every other piece of crap on the shelf.
If you think your engine is coked up run it at a fast idle and spray a few pints of water through it.End of problem and any residue boils off.
Now here come the Pro seafoamers