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My bone stock 178K mi 90 knocks slightly on soft acceleration when cold. Moderate and heavy throttle when cold is fine. Timing is right, gas is right, recent oil change, no codes....Once warmed up, all is perfect again. Appreciate your thoughts.
Piston slap is usually associated with forged pistons due to the increased clearances. It goes away as the piston warms up and expands. It is not a big deal.
I would go with piston slap, wrist pin, or cracked piston. Could last for years. I'd just drive it, it probably won't cost any more later than now. I've got that in my hunting truck, starting on the seventh year like that.
Don't know if piston slap is an issue with the L98......it certainly has been with stock LT1's.....
KW
Piston slap. Be e gentle and warm it up and it will last a long time. Now is the time to start planning for a rebuild or replacement. I spent months looking for good deals when I decided to do mine. If money is an issue you may want to do the same.
Thanx Fella's. Got a "knock sensor" code last week, hoped that may have something to do with it, but after I changed it, still knocking/slapping this morning. Oh, well.
Cast pistons here with 146k. Piston slap when cold, goes away when warmed, have no issues leaning on it once everything is up to temp.
If a motor is going to "go" it will do it wether you baby it or not.
Personally I wouldnt sweat it .
Thanx Fella's. Got a "knock sensor" code last week, hoped that may have something to do with it, but after I changed it, still knocking/slapping this morning. Oh, well.
Changed what??? The knock sensor? That is like changing the fuel level gauge because it reads empty. Talk about shooting the messenger! You should consider changing the knock sensor if it DOESN'T report audible knocking. Tell me I have misread this. If not, head immediately to www.helminc.com.
Duh, Yes you've mis-read and like some, you have jumped to the conclusion that everyone else is stupid. The Check Engine light lit, code retrieved indicated the knock sensor had failed. Occassional throttle surge has now gone away. I didn't indicated that this had anything to do with the subject at hand nor what pressure the RR tire should be set at for racing or even which wiperblade was the most affective at high speed.......I was only hoping that the two may have had been related in some fashion, and relaying my thoughts to the my fellow Corvette owners. Geeez, one shouldn't stow thrones Dude.
Duh, Yes you've mis-read and like some, you have jumped to the conclusion that everyone else is stupid.
I haven't jumped to any conclusions. I read:
Originally Posted by go-olds
Got a "knock sensor" code last week, hoped that may have something to do with it, but after I changed it, still knocking/slapping this morning. Oh, well.
That reads to me, an awfully lot like you changed the knock sensor because you got "a "knock sensor" code". If not, that was the IT that you changed? I didn't want to before and I don't want to now, mis-read you you. That is why I asked in my first post and I am asking again. I am trying to understand what you are trying to say.
You STILL haven't stated for certain whether you changed the knock sensor or not, but even in this post, it sounds more as if you did.
Originally Posted by go-olds
The Check Engine light lit, code retrieved indicated the knock sensor had failed. Occassional throttle surge has now gone away.
Tell us what you think stopped the "Occassional throttle surge". Just for your information, there IS no code that indicates that the knock sensor has failed. Your FSM will tell you what conditions it takes to set each of the codes and how to trouble shoot them to avoid throwing money (the wrong parts) at the problem.
Stone stock LT1 except the headers here with 168k. I've had piston slap for tens of thousands of miles now. Doesn't pull so hard on the top end anymore so I'm thinking valve springs and oils seals while I am in there. Aside from that it runs like a champ once warmed up and doesn't use oil. Take care of the engine and it'll take care of you.
Hey guys, I just got a "running lean" code. Where is the "running lean" on my engine and how do I replace it?
It is between the "TPS voltage high" and the "coolant voltage" high. Be careful when wrenching on the "running lean" that you don't lean too close to either of the two "voltage highs". If either one falls they could damage the bungee between them. Lower them slowly and evenly. For details, consult your FSM.
I think I found my running lean. Turns out it was just dirty!
I cleaned it up and as you can see now it looks much better. I haven't started the car back up yet but hopefully this will fix all those codes I'm getting!
The pix aren't too clear. If you have any crusty deposits left, they cam be dislodged with a ball peen cleaning tool. It helps loosen them for the power washer. Kind of like how you might treat an uncooperative MAF.