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Just got in from walmart.. got out.. noticed a nice loud knock :cry :cry :cry Passenger side.... very loud under neath the car.. not very loud above. If I rev it just slightly, it goes away, but as soon as I let off the gas.. there's a low pitched rappp iiitttiyy tap tap tappppp noise.
This is a rod isn't it ? :( :( :( :( :(
Ok, it sat for 2 hours and cooled down. I started it back up to listen for the noise and it's considerably quiter. Reved it just a bit and didn'y hear the same bad noise as before. What does this mean? After two hours, obviously the oil is going to be a little cooler, but not enough that I would think it would be thicker. Does this hint more at a rod bearing or what? :(
Sounds pretty nasty man. If you spin one rod bearing it CAN be quiet. When my friend toasted his motor he spun 3 rod bearings and 2 main bearings, that made a little noise.
Look on the bright side, it give you the excuse you need to do that rebuild. I remember your pictures of the heads and I can say that I'm not suprised it croaked. At least you can say it's not your fault, the previous owner should be shot. Clean all that up rebuild it correctly and put Mobil 1 in it and you'll be set for a whole lot of miles to come. Might as well throw in a cam while you're at it.
BTW, I had talked to you about my other friend who's motor looked like yours, wanted to do the budget rebuild, etc. It's not that I forgot to tell you the progress, he just had a small run-in with a curb and the motor took the back burner on priority.
Glock, with all due respect, I'm surprised that your motor made it as long as it did. When you posted the pictures of your valvetrain, it was obvious with all that crud, that you have had major blowby for a long time. Yank it before you throw a rod and trash what's left of it so you can at least have a good block to rebuild. Good luck.
Yes I have to agree with the other guys. Lay her down for a rest and give her a rebuild. I just recently pulled my valve covers and before I removed them to reveal the valve train I had a flashback of what yours looked like and I took a moment to pray mine would not look like that. :eek: Mine did not look anything like that. Thank God. You have to realize the rest of your engine probably looks the same way and as stated before it could have major problems if ignored. I would get ahold of the guy that had the car before and thank him for the mess :boxing I'm sure it would not do anything but it might make you feel better. Perhaps some of that crud is blocking/attached to the oil pump???? Who knows? Also something to keep in mind during the rebuild if using the same heads ect. is that there might be some serious warpage if that engine was run as hot as it looks like it was. It could get very expensive for you. An alterative might be a crate engine drop in and cut your losses. After all is said and done you will have a brand new engine and some more performance. If I was you, that is the path I would choose. Good luck and let us know how you make out...
just get you a forged LT1 stroker crank, forged pistons, rod & main bearings, and get the block punched to .030 or .040, and do the rebuild yourself to save some cash
Try this before you do anyhting as for as rebuild>>>>Change the oil and go back with 4 quarts of 10-30 and 1 quart of transmission fluid. Sometimes a sticking lifter will raise all kinda hell especially with the alum. heads>>>echo's all over the place...This has worked for me dozens of times on dozens of cars....Good Luck Man!!!!!!!!!!!
Try this before you do anyhting as for as rebuild>>>>Change the oil and go back with 4 quarts of 10-30 and 1 quart of transmission fluid. Sometimes a sticking lifter will raise all kinda hell especially with the alum. heads>>>echo's all over the place...This has worked for me dozens of times on dozens of cars....Good Luck Man!!!!!!!!!!!
I've heard of doing this... i think i'll consult a couple people about this.. no offense.. just don't want to make anything worse.