u-joints
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,178
Likes: 5
From: Daleville Indiana
St. Jude Donor '08
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 16,027
Likes: 169
From: oregon
buy spicers, see if you have a local trucking store and buy the real dana spicer u joints. they also fit much easier and press in with a vice with hardly any effort. none of the store name joints i have ever used are as strong, well built or easy to install. i paid 20 each for non greesable spicers here locally at six states trucking.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 336
Likes: 3
From: State of Confusion
with all above. If you don't have the factory service manuals, then you really should buy them. You can get a dedicated u-joint press from Autozone, which is a bit safer than using a bench vice. When you're finished just bring the press back to A-zone and they will refund your money completely!
Pro
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 674
Likes: 1
From: Daytona Beach Florida
Here are the instructions I used.
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/
Last edited by Bubba91; Mar 1, 2008 at 06:33 PM.
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
I'm getting ready to replace the u-joints in my half shafts - I checked my maint. manual and it is useless for this. My search revealed this thread with the best turorial (above link, with pics) that I could ask for.
Saved me a lot of grief - Thanks Bubba91
Saved me a lot of grief - Thanks Bubba91
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
The C4 u-joints are 1310 series for the driveshaft (2 required) and 1350 series
for the half-shafts (4 required).
Within the 1310 and 1350 series there are u-joints intended for use with steel
yokes and others intended for use with aluminum yokes. The Corvette requires
u-joints intended for aluminum yokes. These are specially coated to help prevent
or delay galvanic corrosion which occurs between dissimilar metals like the steel
u-joint and the aluminum yokes.
The preferred Spicer u-joints are the
listed as 'Unknown' on the Dana/Spicer website compared to other numbers that
display as either 'Active' or 'Discontinued'. I wrote to Dana/Spicer to ask about
the status of these parts but I have yet to receive a reply.
It appears that Spicer vendors are telling buyers to accept u-joints intended for
steel drive and half-shafts (apparently without explaining the differences
or possible consequences)
ACDelco
for the half-shafts (4 required).
Within the 1310 and 1350 series there are u-joints intended for use with steel
yokes and others intended for use with aluminum yokes. The Corvette requires
u-joints intended for aluminum yokes. These are specially coated to help prevent
or delay galvanic corrosion which occurs between dissimilar metals like the steel
u-joint and the aluminum yokes.
The preferred Spicer u-joints are the
5-786X for aluminum driveshaft (1310 series)
5-800X for aluminum half shafts (1350 series)
However, these parts seem increasingly difficult to source. The numbers appear5-800X for aluminum half shafts (1350 series)
listed as 'Unknown' on the Dana/Spicer website compared to other numbers that
display as either 'Active' or 'Discontinued'. I wrote to Dana/Spicer to ask about
the status of these parts but I have yet to receive a reply.
It appears that Spicer vendors are telling buyers to accept u-joints intended for
steel drive and half-shafts (apparently without explaining the differences
or possible consequences)
5-785X for steel driveshaft (1310 series)
5-799X for steel half shafts (1350 series)
As an alternative to Spicer u-joints, there are the following5-799X for steel half shafts (1350 series)
ACDelco
ACDELCO Part # 45U0405 {#89049306}
JOINT KIT,PROP SHF FRT/RR UNIVERSAL -; OPTIONAL ANTI-GALVANIC U-JOINT FOR USE IN
ALUMINUM YOKES; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 1 & 2 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG
ACDELCO Part # 45U0400 {#89049301}
JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF INR/OTR UNIVERSAL -; LEFT/RIGHT HAND; OPTIONAL ANTI-GALVANIC
U-JOINT FOR USE IN ALUMINUM YOKES; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM I, POSITIONS 3 to 6 - REFERENCED
IN PAPER CATALOG
NeapcoJOINT KIT,PROP SHF FRT/RR UNIVERSAL -; OPTIONAL ANTI-GALVANIC U-JOINT FOR USE IN
ALUMINUM YOKES; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM I, POSITION 1 & 2 - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG
ACDELCO Part # 45U0400 {#89049301}
JOINT,RR WHL DRV SHF INR/OTR UNIVERSAL -; LEFT/RIGHT HAND; OPTIONAL ANTI-GALVANIC
U-JOINT FOR USE IN ALUMINUM YOKES; PREMIUM; DIAGRAM I, POSITIONS 3 to 6 - REFERENCED
IN PAPER CATALOG
NEAPCO ("Brute Force with AlumiGuard")
Corrosion-Resistant High-Performance U-Joints for Aluminum Driveshafts
Neapco # (Premium) Description
1-0626BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
2-0617BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
Neapco also offers standard performance u-joints for aluminum shafts
1-0153BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
2-0053BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
Rockford Driveline is a third sourceCorrosion-Resistant High-Performance U-Joints for Aluminum Driveshafts
Neapco # (Premium) Description
1-0626BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
2-0617BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
Neapco also offers standard performance u-joints for aluminum shafts
1-0153BF: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
2-0053BF: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
Rockford Driveline
There appears to be two versions of the coated driveshaft and
half-shaft u-joints. I have no information beyond part numbers.
Rockford # Description
K153A & K467A: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
K178A & K447A: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
.
There appears to be two versions of the coated driveshaft and
half-shaft u-joints. I have no information beyond part numbers.
Rockford # Description
K153A & K467A: 1310 Aluminum U-Joint (Driveshaft)
K178A & K447A: 1350 Aluminum U-Joint (Half-shaft)
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
First time I didn't know what this sound was on my 89 and took it to the dealer, was about a $800 bill I think. Then just about 3 years ago they were gone, did it myself with the directions off the forum, bought the spicer joints $100 delivered, then paid a drive shaft shop $20 to replace with new parts.
I called the dealer to see what I had saved, they price on the service was up to $1200 now. So I "saved" $1000 easy, at 6 hours or so that's over $150/hour. I'll work for that!
I called the dealer to see what I had saved, they price on the service was up to $1200 now. So I "saved" $1000 easy, at 6 hours or so that's over $150/hour. I'll work for that!
Pro
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 506
Likes: 12
From: Savannah GA
I've done it twice in the years I've had my 87.
Pull the strut rods loose at the outside and it won't mess up the alignment. I think the postings tell you to do it that way to. Get yourself some good jackstands minimum. A decent (although Chinese) floor jack is in the $75 range. Time wise plan on a good part of a Saturday the 1st time.
You can knock those ujoints with a ballpeen hammer, sockets and a couple of 2x4's if you can find someone old enough to help you do it.
Don't worry about the driveshaft ujoints unless you can see rust around them; especially with an automatic. They don't move so there is little stress on them. I changed mine at 200k miles and they looked like new. I would have put the old ones back in if it wasn't such a pain to yank the driveshaft out without taking the C-beam loose.
JS
Pull the strut rods loose at the outside and it won't mess up the alignment. I think the postings tell you to do it that way to. Get yourself some good jackstands minimum. A decent (although Chinese) floor jack is in the $75 range. Time wise plan on a good part of a Saturday the 1st time.
You can knock those ujoints with a ballpeen hammer, sockets and a couple of 2x4's if you can find someone old enough to help you do it.
Don't worry about the driveshaft ujoints unless you can see rust around them; especially with an automatic. They don't move so there is little stress on them. I changed mine at 200k miles and they looked like new. I would have put the old ones back in if it wasn't such a pain to yank the driveshaft out without taking the C-beam loose.
JS
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/
Racer
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: Cicero IN
Depends on your tool supply, mechanical ability, and time/space. Only you can answer that question, but you can at least know what is involved in the job to help you decide.
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/
http://personal.tmlp.com/scorp/vette/images/ujoints/
Navigator
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Quakertown Pa
I did the u-joints on my '93 last fall. It isn't too bad, but be careful the 8mm bolt's tend to strip. When doing the rear inner half shafts to access the top bolts of the inner u-joint remove the back tire and use a long extension. Because of the wierd angle this is the best way to get a flush grip on the bolts. Also order new clamps and bolts before and have them there. I stripped one of the heads and had to wait 3 days for the new ones to arrive from Mid America.
You will feel the difference immediately!
You will feel the difference immediately!
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 78
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I did the u-joints on my '93 last fall. It isn't too bad, but be careful the 8mm bolt's tend to strip. When doing the rear inner half shafts to access the top bolts of the inner u-joint remove the back tire and use a long extension. Because of the wierd angle this is the best way to get a flush grip on the bolts. Also order new clamps and bolts before and have them there. I stripped one of the heads and had to wait 3 days for the new ones to arrive from Mid America.
You will feel the difference immediately!
You will feel the difference immediately!
Also, you may want to spray with penetrating oil a day or so before removing to break them loose from all the rust. You can find the u-joints at NAPA.
Last edited by l98tpi; Feb 20, 2009 at 04:00 PM. Reason: add info
