Hi everyone,
I need to adjust the valves on my LT1. Can anyone give me any advise on how this is done. Thanks, Ed

 

This should help get you started:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1954693

 

1.Get a haynes C4 corvette manual - it will have the procedure in there.

2. I have an 88 L-98 but I think the proceedure's the same, but maybe an Lt1 owner can confirm that what I am saying is also true for an Lt1 motor.

-you can do a cold or hot valve lash adjustment, but hot is better.
-For hot:
1. take the valve cover off the cylinder bank you want to adjust, then reassembal everything else so the engine can run with the valve cover off.

2. Get some card board and try to use it to shield the rest of the engine from any oil that is splahed while the valve cover is off so it doesn't make a mess of you engine.

3. Turn the car on and listen while it idles to see which valves are noisy

4. use a shocket and slowly tighten the nut on the rocker arm(s) until the clattering goes away then tighten an additional 1/4 to 1/3 turn, but if the clattering doesn't go away after some tightening (maybe 1-1.5, possibly 2 turns depending on how lose it was to begin with) stop because if you tighten it to far you will burn the valve(s) - if the clattering doesn't go away your lifter(s) are to far gone and must be replaced.

5. repeat on other cylinder bank (if nessary)

6. put valve covers back on and check oil since some will be lost during the adjustment.

7. lots of manuals tell you to go 1-1.5 turns after the clattering is gone, don't do this or you'll burn the valves, go 1/4 - 1/2 turns at most.

8. wear gloves the oil can get hot if the cars running for a while

-good luck and hope this helps.

 

There should be a law against that sort of misinformation.

RACE ON!!!

 

Do a search, this has come up quite a few times. I think there is another thread further down on this page to start.

I'm pretty sure you won't find the method mentioned above a second time.

 

Not saying the above is right but why is this misinformation? This subject has came up a million times with a million different ways to do it.

I adjusted mine with the car running and thought it worked GREAT. Just loosened til' I heard slight clack, then very gently tighten until clack is gone, then 1/2 turn.

I have heard some very experienced engine builders that use this method so explain why this is bad? (again not saying you are wrong just looking for an explanation)

Car Guy - the shield idea is probably good, however on my car I didn't lose a drop, no shield needed.

 

For once I'm in agreement.He didn't explain how to do it cold 'tho.
Loved the gloves.

 

My bad guys! I was reading everyone elses responces to my post and realized I forgot one step, Sorry I'll be more careful next time to prof read my posts.
I forgot about turning the push rod, tighten the rocker nut in 1/4 turn interval until you feel a resistance when you try to turn the push rod then, turn the rocker nut another 1/2 turn this should be Zero lash, I feel this is good enough for a hydrolic lifter engine and I have read that it is good enough oviously some disagree,

here's a sight that gives info valve lash tunning the cold method:
:http://www.iworkinmyunderwear.com/ki...dj-valves.html

 

There is no need to do hydraulic lifters hot and running as you would with a solid cam.
Maybe this will help

www.small-block-chevy.com/cb_6.htm

 

I think it's a lot easier to say:

1) run engine until hot
2) do each side at a time
3) back off nut until it clicks, tighten until clicking goes away. Turn 1/4 more
4) If using polylocks you'll get a better 'feel' than lock nuts.

I do a cold adjustment on the stand. 9 times out of 10, one ends up being a hair off. If you understand how a motor works you'll know why too. Unless you find true TDC for EVERY cylinder, variations in cam lobes, timing set, etc.


--Joe

 

Exactly.

It seems if you do it while the car is running then you are TRULY adjusting for the as-operated condition?

 

Thanks for the link but no doesn't really help - it doesn't describe WHY the running method would be bad???????

 

Here's another method: http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=2

Hopefully, you have some reason to do this - it's a not a maintenance issue.

 

Ahhhh yes, I've seen that link before. That's a good one.

 

It's what works for me. I've never had a problem doing it hot and running, but I've had problems doing it on the stand.

For some reason, the last few cars I fixed for folks had a skip due to a tight valve too.

-- Joe

 

There is nothing wrong with setting the preload on hydraulic lifters with the engine running. In fact, that is the most accurate way to locate zero lash, if it really needs to be located accuratly. There are in fact several good ways to set the lifter preload. The misinformation includes:RACE ON!!!

 

Thank you everyone for the info. I will be doing it this weekend and I'll let all know how it works out.

 

 

Excellent follow up CFI. I will add a couple cents to this topic. Hydraulics don't normally need to be readjusted. That is the main reason they were designed plus several others. If you have lifters clacking you have something worn out. Back in the early sixties when I was into swapping a lot of cams I bought a set of metal clips that go over the lube hole in the top of the rocker. Back then you needed them because the oil would hit the fenders. I have seen clothes pins used also. By far the best is a cover with a slot cut in the top over the rocker retaining nuts.

I see in my FSM nothing has changed since my 62 Chev SS 327. One turn past zero lash. I don't know any reason to vary from this unless you plan to float the lifters which serves no purpose. If you want to then you want them as close to zero lash as possible which of course makes it a solid lifter cam. Later! Frank

 

Make sure its not your injectors making the ticking noise, they can fool you into thinking your valves are out of adjustment.