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Solved the fire problem...now I need help..

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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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Default Solved the fire problem...now I need help..

Well the good news is it went from a massive VC leak, to a small one. On the other side. I fixed the driver's side problem, now I have a small passenger side problem. I can see exactly where it's leaking and can't do a dam thing about it. I'm getting another gasket. Seems the gasket I put in was cut a little thinner than the other side, but I said...WTF.....So I put it in. No big deal I think a new gasket will solve it.

Anyway, I am running open headers. when the car warms up it runs like crap. It seems to miss like crazy. Is it possible it's not going into open loop because of the open headers.

Once I get the oil leak fixed I will get the exhaust done. Do you think that will solve the problem?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 08:57 PM
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If the 02 sensor is located near the collector, you should convert it to a 3 wire heated sensor.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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I don't think you would have any of these problems if you had AFR heads.

Sorry John, I couldn't help myself.

Only one way to tell if it will run better with the exhaust on.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
If the 02 sensor is located near the collector, you should convert it to a 3 wire heated sensor.
It is in the collector. How do I wire a 3 wire O2 sensor. Is there a Bosch part number? My stock O2 only has 1 wire,
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 87 rag
I don't think you would have any of these problems if you had AFR heads.
I hear they can cure cancer too.

Last edited by jsup; Mar 2, 2008 at 10:43 PM.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:06 PM
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do switch to a 3 wire heated O2 with headers if the O2 is in the collector like Pete suggested.

These cars start in open loop and do not pay attention to the O2 sensor then. So what may be happening is the engine is in closed loop and doesn't like what the O2 is seeing. If you have the O2 in the collector and run open header, the O2 is most likely reading the suck back of fresh air in between pulses of the exhaust gases. Put the exhaust on or get extensions and dump them about 8 inches further back see if that helps anything.

The car only does this when warm correct? So there's no reason to double check the simple things like plug wires?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Hound
do switch to a 3 wire heated O2 with headers if the O2 is in the collector like Pete suggested.

These cars start in open loop and do not pay attention to the O2 sensor then. So what may be happening is the engine is in closed loop and doesn't like what the O2 is seeing. If you have the O2 in the collector and run open header, the O2 is most likely reading the suck back of fresh air in between pulses of the exhaust gases. Put the exhaust on or get extensions and dump them about 8 inches further back see if that helps anything.

The car only does this when warm correct? So there's no reason to double check the simple things like plug wires?
Yes, runs great cold. Runs like crap warm.

Any trick on wiring the three wire one. Do I have to change anything? Like I said, my current O2 sensor only has one wire. And dammit, it's brand new.

Thanks
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Have a look here:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...D=93&TopicID=2
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
Thanks, just printed it. I'll pick up the parts tomorrow.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:27 PM
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The one wire O2 is unheated. Those extra two wires on the new ones run the heater for the O2. Well worth the time. You still need to get the exhaust on or dumps. The heated O2 won't like open headers either. I'm betting this is what is going on. It's the first thing you need to address anyway.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Speed Hound
The one wire O2 is unheated. Those extra two wires on the new ones run the heater for the O2. Well worth the time. You still need to get the exhaust on or dumps. The heated O2 won't like open headers either. I'm betting this is what is going on. It's the first thing you need to address anyway.
THat's what it seems like. I was kinda hoping not to have to, but seems like there's no choice. I can ground one side to the chassis and just run a single wire to a keyed source. Not that big a deal.

Any ideas what kind of current heated O2s pull?
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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I tapped into the 12 volt supply at the fuel pump relay, for mine.
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Old Mar 2, 2008 | 09:36 PM
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no more than 5 amps
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