Need Part Number O2 sensor
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Need Part Number O2 sensor
The tech tips have an autozone part number 13190 listed for the heated O2 sensor. None of the Autozones around here have them and are having a hard time getting them
Anyone know the Bosh number so I can call Napa, Pep Boys, or someone else?
Thanks
Anyone know the Bosh number so I can call Napa, Pep Boys, or someone else?
Thanks
Melting Slicks
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
Will ANY three wire O2 sensor work?
Here's a link to Rock Auto, will the first one work?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...3&a=FR23-13913
Will any of them work?
It's hard to tell the wire color. I suspect that the black wire is ground, is the white power or to the ECU?
I came up with Bosch 13913 as a "universal 3 wire".
I don't want to fk up my ECU becuase I got the wrong sensor, and I don't want the car to run like crap for the same reason.
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13190 is the bosch number, go to ebay and type bosch 13190 you will find a couple sellers offering them for under 40 bucks. just installed this same sensor myself, much better cold start driving with long tubes. Actually, here's where i bought mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...spagenameZWD1V
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
13190 is the bosch number, go to ebay and type bosch 13190 you will find a couple sellers offering them for under 40 bucks. just installed this same sensor myself, much better cold start driving with long tubes. Actually, here's where i bought mine.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...spagenameZWD1V
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Bosch...spagenameZWD1V
The application is for Chrysler, will the ECU feed be the same regardless of application of sensor? Is it just the physical connector that is different?
Last edited by jsup; Mar 3, 2008 at 09:34 PM.
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The 13190 is a Bosch part number.
If the 13193 is a universal heated O2 sensor, there should be three wires; two of one color (probably white) and one black. The two wires of the same color are power and ground (doesn't matter which). The black or single color is the connection to the wire harness conector.
If the 13193 is a universal heated O2 sensor, there should be three wires; two of one color (probably white) and one black. The two wires of the same color are power and ground (doesn't matter which). The black or single color is the connection to the wire harness conector.
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
The 13190 is a Bosch part number.
If the 13193 is a universal heated O2 sensor, there should be three wires; two of one color (probably white) and one black. The two wires of the same color are power and ground (doesn't matter which). The black or single color is the connection to the wire harness conector.
If the 13193 is a universal heated O2 sensor, there should be three wires; two of one color (probably white) and one black. The two wires of the same color are power and ground (doesn't matter which). The black or single color is the connection to the wire harness conector.
See question above. Do all ECUs see the O2 sensor the same? Is it just an open and closed switch?
Melting Slicks
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
The oxygen sensor is positioned in the exhaust pipe and can detect rich and lean mixtures. The mechanism in most sensors involves a chemical reaction that generates a voltage (see the patents below for details). The engine's computer looks at the voltage to determine if the mixture is rich or lean, and adjusts the amount of fuel entering the engine accordingly.
The article is moot on the point.
Actually if you look at sensors there are some that specify before cat, after cat, in manifold, which leads me to believe that they all send a different signal.
Last edited by jsup; Mar 3, 2008 at 09:56 PM.
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
I'm going to pick it up locally, which is why I wanted the Bosch number, the Autozone number doesn't help. Thanks.
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From: oregon
the 13190 uses a 3 pin harness, you simply cut the head off of your 1 wire, solder on a new wire going to 1 of the pins of a new pig tail. the twin white wires are led to switched power and ground. our local NAPA had the other end of this 3 pin connector for $8. I also used the fat red wire that is by the distributor for 12v and ran a ground to the - battery terminal since it's actually pretty close. whole job with soldering and probing took around an hour. Also, nothing to worry about with the "will it work issues" I'm personally driving on this sensor in my 1990, works like a charm. Did i mention my heater core died on the first test drive 
Last edited by racebum; Mar 3, 2008 at 10:37 PM.
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
the 13190 uses a 3 pin harness, you simply cut the head off of your 1 wire, solder on a new wire going to 1 of the pins of a new pig tail. the twin white wires are led to switched power and ground. our local NAPA had the other end of this 3 pin connector for $8. I also used the fat red wire that is by the distributor for 12v and ran a ground to the - battery terminal since it's actually pretty close. whole job with soldering and probing took around an hour. Also, nothing to worry about with the "will it work issues" I'm personally driving on this sensor in my 1990, works like a charm. Did i mention my heater core died on the first test drive
What I am going to do is cut the connector off my stock replacement O2 sensor that I have now. Put that on the single wire.
I'm going to get a 2 pin connector and connect the power with that. The ground is right there, finding a switched power lead should be easy enough.
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i thought about doing the same thing you just mentioned since i had a 2 pin weatherpack connector laying around. The only reason i didn't is because of the cost of the right 3 pin and the fact it really never is going back to a 1 wire so why preserve it.
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From: Bergen County, NJ Democrats, doing for the country what they did for Michigan
I got the 13190 with the 3 pin connector and the female side of the connector, that I had to buy separately. I made up the connector with pins that I crimped, then soldered. One wire went to ground, the other went to the O2 sensor, the last I just have to find a good switched connection.
I used the ground that came off the bell housing, where the rest of the grounds were attached. I took off the nut, put a ring connector with shrink sleeve on the wire coming off the connector, and put the ring on the nut with the rest of the grounds.
I used the old wire off the old O2 sensor, connected it to the new connector, and then connected it back to the OEM connection.
I came up the back of the firewall with the wire, I just have to find a switched connection. I'm thinking off the wiper motor. I have to test the connection, or look at the FSM to see if the switched power is there.
Since most of the electrical work I do is on my boat, all the parts, connections I use are marine grade materials. So it's even better than automotive solutions.
Last edited by jsup; Mar 4, 2008 at 08:10 PM.
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I used that big red wire on the ignition circut. one of the pink wires from my MSD 6al is going there so i tapped it with a 2 pin and ran one of the leads to the 02. I'm not sure if the wiper is power with key or not. i know where i went is and the fuel pump relay is another popular spot.
