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Intermittent Starting Issues - More Info This Time
Here's the problem. I have an 85' 4+3 (so no VATS) that has an intermittent starting issue. The car has 60K on the clock and runs like a champ once it's started. The problem is getting it started and a few questions to maybe alleviate the issue.
So here is what will happen: I get in the car turn the key to the accessory position and my voltage reads 11.5 or so. I put the clutch all the way down to the floor(feels like I'm pushing through the floorboard), turn the key to crank the motor, and I just hear a click. I can immediately take my foot off the clutch, push it back in, turn the key and more times the not it will fire up without hesitation.
I have done a full tune up on the car as well as a new battery.
Now knowing that this is a car without VATS. Does this sound like more of a neutral safety switch issue or a security system lockout feature? Is there any way to adjust a neutral safety switch to recognize the clutch pedal as being engaged without me pushing it through the floorboard and without me jumping the switch and hard wiring it?
If you keep hitting the crank position and each time hear the starter solenoid click, but one time the starter cranks, then most likely you have burned pitted contacts in the starter solenoid. At the end of the starter solenoid stroke, two large copper contacts are forced together which switch current to the starter motor. These contacts get pitted and burned and eventually don't make a low enough resistance connection to supply the 100+ amps the starter motor requires. You can buy new contacts and install them yourself, or have an auto electric shop do it or just replace the starter.
Also, check that your battery cable connections are clean, bright, and tight. Another check is to measure the battery terminal voltage with the ign sw held in crank, battery voltage during cranking should not be lower than 9.0 volts or you have poor cable connection, battery is discharged, or the battery is at the end of its life.
I don't have a standard and don't know if corvettes are set up this way but it is a thought. Is there a switch on the clutch pedal that tells if the clutch is pushed down? If so that could be your culprit. Ive seen cars that are standard that wont start unless clutch pedal is pushed down. have you tried starting the car after you get the click without depressing the clutch a 2nd time? If so what happens? If your hearing a click a solenoid issue would be one of the first things id look for as well just thought maybe this idea might apply if the car is setup the way i was referring to.
OK, so it seems you guys are pretty convinced that I have a starter solenoid issue. Maybe it's time to upgrade the starter which is something I have actually been looking to do.
If anyone else has any other ideas please keep them coming.
Thanks for your replies so far, I'll try to get back to you guys in a few days and let you know what I found.
A little more info I get about 10.5 Volts when I turn over the ignition switch and the motor cranks so I definitely think starter switch solenoid is the place to check.
He gets a click, what he doesn't get is a crank! Therefore, the clutch safety switch is working.
Um If your referring to the switch i was mentioning. If that switch is bad or has intermittent problems you wouldn't get a crank at least i wouldn't think so. If the switch is faulty and doesn't tell the system the clutch is depressed it wont crank over. I agree with others that a clicking noise would seem like a solenoid and would be one of my 1st things to look at. Just figured it cant hurt to put other ideas out there just in case it isn't the solenoid.
OK guys so I'm pretty convinced I am indeed having a starter issue. As opposed to going down the road of just putting new contacts in I figured it's time for a new starter. Any suggestions or tricks of the trade besides those listed in my FSM and HELMS in order to make it very painless when I do it this weekend? Thanks!
Besides buying a starter with solenoid, or a solenoid rebuild kit, you can usually fix the solenoid without buying anything. The main contact is a large washer that can be turned around for a new contact surface. Turn the washer and a quick dressing with a file of the other contacts, and your solenoid is as good as new.
I have been able to start the car every few days with no issue at all. I will turn it over and the car will start perfectly. I can wait another 3-4 days and turn it over and it will start perfectly again. When the car sits for an extended period of time I can get it to start every single time.
NOW today, I drove the car for a constant 45 minutes had it up to optimum temperature and everything was great until I turned it off. As soon as I turned it off I was not able to start it again. In fact, I was not able to start the car until my brother hooked jumper cables to the car for no more than 30 seconds and the car fired right up.
Could the starter solenoid be getting so hot that it won't touch the contacts and therefore won't start the car? Could the slight "jump" from my brother's truck be forcing the contacts of the starter to then let me start the car when it's hot? Any other ideas?
When it exhibits the symptom, send power directly to the starter solenoid. Use a remote starter button if you have one, otherwise, just use a plain wire. If the engine cranks, than you have a primary circuit issue (clutch sw, VATS, key switch, etc). If no crank, you either have:
Low voltage at the starter (could be battery or wiring)
Bad solenoid (Fixable the way CFI-EFI suggested)
Dead spot in armature.
Sorry it took so long to get back to everyone, but the problem is FIXED. I replaced the entire starter and solenoid and what a difference it has made. No more hesitations in starting or anything.
I really want to thank everyone for their help! The in depth fixes especially like the stuff CFI-EFI posted about the contacts and how to fix them is really valuable for the cost conscience folks on the forum. Thanks again!