I found a way to duct a little cold air to my Powerdyne supercharger.

Using my existing cheapo Spectre cone air filter, some Spectre ducting and air cleaner duct adaptor, I was able to route some cold air from the factory air cleaner outlet directly to the cone air filter.

I already had an SLP cold air kit which draws air from in front of the radiator with a small forward facing scoop, so I wanted to find a way to make use of this with the blower.

It should help provide some colder air at higher speeds, without overly restricting the blower inlet.

Here's an initial pic of the installation.

Very cool!! (pun intended )

Very good idea! My only thought is about when I had a cone filter, the tip was very obstructed with the mesh material that goes around the filter material. It might flow better with some of that removed.

Looks pretty good. I have been waiting for a performance update, but I guess you need to get some good weather for that.

You should look at the IATs once you get the car up and running. You will be quite surprised that when cruising around, the IATs are very close to ambiant even though the air inlet is above the headers. When the car is idling, the IATs will jump ~25° above ambiant, but when moving, the hot air from the headers is sucked out under the car.

Now when you go into boost, the IATs of your system will push up appreciably, but that is do to no I/C. Don't expect some "indicated" miracle from xxOH injection, as most of the cooling takes place during the resonance time as it passes through the ports and is still providing cooling in the combustion chamber.

It is cool that you have found something to do with the factory air cleaner bonnet, but the benefits will not be readily noticed in the moving car, and it really doesn't help when the car is idling and not moving.

But it does look cool. Kudos for ingenuity.
Aaron

That was odd.. it surely looked like you plumbed the pipe from the blower outlet into a T going to the air cleaner.. i was like OMG what are you thinking ! lol I zoomed in and see that the air pipe from the filter goes underneath to connect to the filter. That idea of yours gained you considerable temp drops. Nothing worse than sucking in air into a blower right off the manifolds !

It will be interesting to monitor the IAT temps.

I do have an integrated IAT sensor with the Ford 05+ MAF that I've installed in the blower discharge tubing, so I will have a pretty good indication of the discharge temps.

The cheap plastic Spectre air cleaner duct adaptor and coupler are starting to deform from the exhaust heat after some stationary running with elevated rpm. I may have to come up with something more durable for use in this location, but at least the duct itself is holding up ok

Today, the 05+ Ford MAF/IAT was showing around 150F after about 20 minutes of running between idle and 2000 rpm while stationary. It should be quite a bit cooler while actually driving.

The snow is gone, but my road is a muddy mess, so it may be a few weeks before I can drive and complete the MAF tuning and report on performance.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you do the entire kit for?

Your IATs listed got me thinking.

The IATs that I quoted above were when I was using the 4 core Spearco IC. When I was running the IC, I would build from ambient over the course of a 1/4 mile to the high 240s°F, then it would take a few minutes of cruising to pull it back to ambient.


To compare apples to apples (no IC now), I run at 160° around town with no boost (staying between idle and ~2200RPM. Idling is not much different. Now when I go into boost, it momentarily will shoot up to ~215°F (my xxOH starts spraying at 5 psi and is spraying 100% by 15 psi), then settles back to ~180° for the rest of a run. The xxOH manufacturer says that I am still getting additional cooling, but my IAT is at the neck of the 4bbl flange on the intake.

It bothers me running around at 160°F, but I was never able to get 25+ psi with the IC. Nor was I able to have 10 psi by 3200RPM.

I will be interested to see what the IATs climb to in your combo. Are you running xxOH?

Aaron

Here's a breakdown of my costs:

Parts list for my custom C4 powerdyne installation. 1988 L98 Corvette

$681 Blower BD-11A straight scroll discharge, 2.93" LT1 pulley (Ebay)
Free Bracket 3/4" aluminum plate (14x9). I already had this plate on hand and simply fabbed the bracket.
Free Spacers for behind bracket approx 3/4" to align pulley (scrap from bracket plate).
Free Old sockets, valve spring seats, etc used for misc. spacers.
Free Alt spacer re-used from existing air pump eliminator.

Items from local auto parts store:
$10 90-91 upper radiator hose
$7 Valve cover Breather (Spectre)
$35 Serpentine Belt (85 1/2" 25-060849 Napa) for use with underdrive 6" crank pulley
$19 Idler pulley (TorqFlo 835112)
$25 3.5" Universal Cone air filter (Spectre)
$40 (2) Spectre 3" memory flex ducts from factoy air cleaner to cone filter
$6 Spectre cone air filter duct adaptor

Silicone hoses and tubing from Treadstone Performance:
$29 90 degree 3" silicone coupler
$12.95 45 degree 3" aluminum bend
$36.80 3-4 90 degree transition

Misc. Hardware:
$6 (2) t-bolt Hose clamps (Spectre) Re-used stock MAF accordian tube hose clamps.
$17 blower bolts (7) 3/8-16 x 1 1/2" stainless steel socket head cap screws
$10 alternator and bracket bolts 3/8-16 bolts (2) 3 1/2" or 4" bolts with spacers (Grade 8), (1) 8" bolt, (1) 5 1/2" bolt, washers, nuts, spacers etc.
$10 Wiring extension to alt (10 guage wire, terminals, etc.)

Fuel upgrades:
$130 Racetronix Fuel pump Walbro 255 lph in-tank pump
$175 42lb. Lucas injectors (used eBay)
Free Ecm Tuning

Ford MAF parts used to simply MAF installation and extend range with optional resistor:
$50 05 Ford Mustang MAF (used eBay)
$45 VMP slot style MAF flange for 3" aluminum tube
$35 VMP slot style MAF pigtail
Free 10K or 25K resistor for 150-200% extended range use.
Free Ecm tuning for extended range calibration

Adding it all up: $1379.75.

Note: This price does not include any shipping or sales tax, if applicable, so the real cost was slightly more, but still not too bad overall.

Not bad a bad price at all. Thanks for the break down of all the costs. I plan to do this to my car once I get the funds.

I went a slightly different route than him, mainly because I didn't want to fab a bracket.

Install kit from supernatural performance. Includes bracket, 1 idler,
filter, spacers, some bolts, tubing, couplers, clamps, hood prop relocation bracket. Expencive for what you get, but saved probably 20 hours. $575.

(When you figure what it came with vs what TB bought his stuff for, it makes the bracket cost about $350, so is that worth it
for a bracket and not have to run around? maybe, maybe not)

Blower cost me $800. (I know, too much, but I couldn't find a good used one).

Two pulleys ran me total $60

Second idler, some hardware, etc, $50

2-Bar map sensor $65

BOV, junkyard $10

bov tube, ebay $20

I deleted the return line filter, and swapped the lines for some -6an
in case I go FMU in the future. That ran me about $80

Walbro 255lph high pressure pump is $98

'90+ Hood prop and brackets, $45

Shims, and things, $20

Total: $1,823


The 'kit' puts the alt backwards, has you move the PS tank, etc. After reading some posts of fried alternators and such, I decided to move the
alt to the other side. (since I wasn't using AC anyway). So I modified the AC bracket to take an alternator, and used one of the supplied spacers in the 'kit'. I had to then add a second idler (grooved) to keep the belt routing working properly (basically where the alt would have gone).


Tequilaboy was really helpful answering some questions before hand. I probably wouldn't have done the project if I had not got some initial answers from him.

http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/p...t-relocate.jpg
http://members.cisdi.com/~anesthes/p...-relocate2.jpg

-- Joe