ok- I've had problems with this 700 for a while. T/V problems- the bracket itself may be bent- the plastic housing around the adj. button looks cracked- when I adjust it, it feels worn- I'm on my 3rd t converter (stock type) and IM SICK OF FIXIN IT! I've looked at swaps- too pricy for me- just not possible yet- I was advised to use a constant pressure valve body- if I'm gonna replace it, I thought maybe I'd go with the full manual valve body...

question: can I still use the same lock-up t-converter I have? Also, I understand this will allow me to remove the T/V cable completely, right? If so, is the full manual valve body also a type of constant pressure valve body, or will I need a few more goodies for a proper replacement?
Thanks

(1987- 340-ish HP)

 

Buy and install a new cable and get it set up right.
Plenty of us are running T700's that perform right and hang together without band aid fixes.

"I'm on my 3rd t converter"
What happens to the convertors?

 

well, they last about 3 months- first I'll start to hear noises- like metal sifting in there while it spins- sometimes a whining kind of noise... after the first few weeks (if I let it go for a while) the noise happens right before a shift.... a few more weeks, I lose O/D... few more weeks I lose 1st and R... then I take a day off work replace, and everything is back to normal
- they either lock-up, or they stop catching completely- the fluid that comes out looks like red murcury

The first time it happened right after I made 3 passes at the strip, so I figured it was my error and I replaced it.

The second time, I blamed it on my T/V cable...(replaced it)

This is my third converter- however, this time, the noise is there but I've been driving on it for 3 months or so- usually it just goes out completely by now- no change whatsoever....
This is what happens when I drive now:
1. Start up- loud metal whining (low pitched)- goes away once warm
2. 1st gear: light throttle- 1-2 shift could break my neck
heavy throttle- takes too long to shift- can hear it
punch the pedal- smashes my skull to the headrest
3. 2-3: usually wont shift unless I let off the pedal for a sec
4. 3-4: VERY WIERD: sometimes it will shift- I have to let of the pedal first
however- if there is any kind of slip or sh*tty shift durring any gear change, 3-4 wont happen at all........until I throw her in N, shut it off- count to 5... turn it back on.... gain speed... about 61MPH, I let off the gas for a quick instant and it shifts like brand new....
every time, all the time-
This problem isn't getting worse this time, it just stays like this

I believe there may be a pressure problem- when I really wanna floor it and take off (or downshift to pass or leave someone...) the motor will flare up and she doesnt go anywhere

-I have a feeling I need a new V/B as well, I figured I could just get a manual v/b (prefered if I am going to change it out anyway)... and end this headache....

sorry so long, but thank you to everyone for helping I'm spent!


So I guess I would like to get some opinions from the Vette family-

Replace my converter, t/b, t/v cable and maybe some shifting fix kits
or
Replace the verter and switch to man. valve body?

thanks again

 

I had a manual valve body and from experience, I wouldnt want to try it again. First of all your transmission pressures are at least 200 psi at all times. When you go from park or neutral to drive or reverse, it will feel as hard as a neutral drop even if you are at idle. If I recall, I broke the transfer case off a cold 1100 rpm idle from park to drive.

 

Did you still use the lock-up converter?

 

Yes, but it was shuddering (was slipping) once it locked. Not really good for the converter lock up friction material.

 

.....I'm wondering.... what caused the shudder....
I was told when I bought the car it had a shift kit... and when its working properly, it shifts like a champ- chirps on light throttle....
I wonder if the kit keeps ruining my converter (god knows who put the kit in.... the guy I bought her from was a real tool)


Also, at the strip- at WOT, I noticed a slight shudder/slip durring shifts (2-3 I think)


---did you ever hear of a fix, or steps for the shudder with the manual V/B?

 

I too am considering a manual valve body. I hate 700R4's, because of the throttle cable. My car only shifts right when cold, at least the 1-2 shift, 2-3 and 3-OD are OK. I am suspecting a pressure problem, possibly the pump. It is going to a tranny shop as soon as I can get an appointment.
Am going to talk to him about a manual valve body. A higher stall converter is in the works too, and a shift kit. Now I am wondering what brand shift kit is the best. I put a Transgo kit in an '85 I had, and it shifted spongy. Afriend of mine told me to remove the lockup-fixed, no more spongy feeling.
I sold that car soon after that to help put my daughter thru college, so I don't know if there was ever a long-term affect from disconnecting the lock-up. I will post the results once the work is done.

Rich K

 

I would think the shudder came from either not enough hydraulic pressure to the converter lock up area or from the weakness of the old TCI 10" converter. Mine did the same thing. Neck snapping, tire chirping 1-2 and 2-3 shifts, but a TCC shudder once locked up engaged and would get worse when you tried to accelerate from a steady cruise. Sounded like VRRRRRR like a saw getting stuck on a piece of wood. But at least it was good not having a TV cable for awhile.

 

The transmission will be fine for city driving without any lock up, but if you steady cruise without it, it could be a bit harder on the transmission. Your fuel mileage might suffer as well...

 

Def let me know!

I'm doing about the same thing- I'm not sure about the pump yet- a few people have told me about it, I just think because my problem isnt constant maybe the pump is ok and its a V/B thing

quick question:
does anyone know if the pump puts out a constant pressure, then regulated by the T/valve?

 

"a manual valve body. and a shift kit. Now I am wondering what brand shift kit is the best."

You can't have both.
A shift kit upgrades the stock valve body to what ever level of shift you chose while retaining auto function in drive.
A man valve body replaces the stock one giving you no auto function at all.
You MUST select each gear manually

 

rodj, your statement is correct but not "perfect correct". You can install the TransGo shift kit with the option Stick Only. This involves to block the governor with a special spring, and the holes to perform on the valve body are slighty different than the installation on the TransGo Shift kit in Automatic version.
This Kit allow to have differents pressures with differents gas pedal travels using the stock TV cable.
There is a kit (the TCI ones, it comes with a new valve body) that eliminates the TV cable and it has always the max pressure applied.
Sliding, performed the full manual valve kit with the TransGo kit and it produced a lot of documentation on the forum.
-Beppe-

 

Here is what I did:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1816838

I didn't want to go with full manual VB because I don't think that
full pump pressure is good idea. For race only car maybe, but not
for street/race car.

Instead, I have full manual tranny but with TV system.

 

Beppe , long time no speak

"Instead, I have full manual tranny but with TV system."

You have "full manual" as in say;
you select 2nd and it starts in 2nd
it will stay in a selected gear until you manually shift it ,
and there is no auto function in drive?

If it is full manual what function does the TV cable perform as the TV cable controls the shift points?

I have a excellent Art Carr kit which lets me manual shift up and down
( most of my driving) with auto shift in drive when I am feeling lazy.
Only has stock boost valve ,slightly harsh auto 1-2 shift at very low speeds but seamless shifts under power.Love it

 

rodj, you said: 'you select 2nd and it starts in 2nd'.
YES, Sliding selects 2nd and it starts in 2nd..

I had the same kit on my car. I say ..funny.
NO AUTO function in drive.

The TV cable allow full pressure if WOT and a different pressure when not at WOT.

The TV cable controls pressure, so on an automatic kit it controls also shif points.


Your Art Carr kit, doesn't perform different than a stock corvette trans.
You can manual shift a stock transmission.
-Beppe-

 

I have a TCI FMRVB...There is no engine brakeing when shifting between gears or coming to a stop..The shifts a super firm and right now ..No problem with the trans,just takes getting used to..At least the freakin TV Cable is gone ...A TH 350 is in the very near future though

 

Just like I said, it's full manual now.
In what lever position is shifter - in that gear is tranny, no matter
what rpm or throttle position or speed.
You can start in 4-th if you want to ( not that it would be wise ),
there is absolutely no auto function.

TV system is still present to regulate pressure. So at WOT there is
full pressure, but there isn't full pressure while cruising.

 

I'm really liking the sound of this....
I am wondering why the coice to the TH350?

 

Because I have a line on a TCI Built TH350Will handle high HP and is cheaper than getting the 700 up to speed.. I don't need or care about the OD..The swap with a 9" tail shaft is almost a direct swap...Will make the decision after the Holiday