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OK, here is what I have pretty much made my mind up on. If there is something that could be changed for the same price for better performance or something incompatible, please let me know.
For now:
ZZ4 Shortblock
Vortec heads
Vortec/TPI intake
LT4 hotcam kit (includes self-aligning roller rockers)
GMPP pushrods
GMPP (I think, don't have my list w/ me) Roller lifters
0.51 head gaskets (listed as "for Vortec heads")
Federal Mogul HV oil pump
stock oil pan
Stock Torque converter
Stock gears (2.73)
For Later:
52 mm Throttle body (which is the best?)
24 lb Accel fuel injectors
Ported plenum
AS&M runners
Breathless vortex intake
TPIS headers
Any suggestions, comments, concerns will be greatly appreciated.
Re: I've decided on an engine setup... (mackeyred96)
Sounds good. Just one thing to think about....The "self-aligning" RR....When I spoke with AFR about the new heads I am getting, I asked them about the Self-aligning RR. They said to never go with those because they influence the push rods too much and it can actually cause the PR to rub the guides. I am no expert on this matter, but it might be something to investigate. ALso he said they will add a bit more resistance which will decrease performance. I went with the non-aligning RR. Good luck.
Did you consider using GM aluminum fast burn heads, or their Edelbrock counterparts? I
know they cost more, but it sounds like they're hard to beat for the price.
Why don't you just go for the whole ZZ4. The cam that comes with it has 10 degrees less intake duration which means all the power is 300 rpm lower and better suited to TPI intakes. You can sell the intake and distributor on ebay too.
The stock pump is more than adequate for street perf engine (every book on small block states this). I would get a higher stall converter since the motor is out of the car and better for the LT4 cam or ZZ4 cam if you go that way.
Skip the throttle body and intake. Neither of them are going to give you any HP. Consider using some LT1 exhuast manifolds instead of headers. They are much cheaper, less heat in the engine compartment and probably only reduce your peak HP by 10 - 15 over long tubes.
Ski, believe me, I would much rather use regular RRs, but the Vortec heads require self aligning ones (i.e., +$100 to the total cost).
Black, I did check out both the Fastburns and the Edelbrock performers, but neither of them flow as well as the Vortecs in the most important region (.300-.400)
Jeff, I didn't know that, but you are correct. Thank you for pointing that out.
As far as the RR are concerned Ski_down_it is exactly right. I am using non-aligning RR's with my Vortec's. Just buy some screw in studs, guideplates, and use some hardened pushrods. The 7/16" screw in studs are much better than the stock studs and it doesn't cost much more. Also have you considered a different cam maybe a Compcams Xtreme Energy roller cam they make some wicked cams and they may save you a few dollars. Otherwise the setup looks real good. The LT4 Hot cam is a wicked cam and will work well after you make your other mods.
Can you say lumpy idle. (i.e. rough LT4 hot cam). I now wish I had changed to the LPE 219 cam before I put in the ZZ4 with stock cam. You will also need a short water pump and grind a little off the timing cover bolt at 10:00. Either use your old small balancer or buy a new small trick one. I would second the stock exhaust headers, unless you like loud noises, and high heat melting plastic things under the hood. Then again mine is a daily driver 100 miles round trip commute in DC traffic. Get lots of heat sheild material for starter, EGR, sensor wires. Loom the plugwires far away. Good luck, keep us informed of progress.