95 Brake Fluid Flushing
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 434
Likes: 1
From: Clermont FL
95 Brake Fluid Flushing
I'm going to change the fluid in the brake system on my 95 after 87K miles. It needs it. Using the pump the brakes and open the bleeder screws method, is there any other detail I need to take care of ? ie anti lock brake system?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,801
Likes: 2
From: Amarillo TX
Re: 95 Brake Fluid Flushing (z06dailydriver)
Don't allow the pedal to go all the way to the floor, it pushes the seals into an area inside the master cylinder that never is used. Sometimes there are contaminates there that will scratch the seals and make them leak.
Dave
Dave
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 3,388
Likes: 1
From: X
Re: 95 Brake Fluid Flushing (z06dailydriver)
You shouldn't "Pump" the breaks when you bleed them, just hold pressure on the pedal. Start with the Left Rear, Right Rear, Left Front, and Right Front. Do NOT evacuate the system of fluid; Drain the reservoir with a turkey baster or paper towel. Clean it out then run fresh fluid through the system. Do NOT reuse the fluid you run through the system. While you are at it you might as well flush the Slave cylinder if you have one. (Manual transmission)
Racer
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 319
Likes: 20
From: Bay Area
Re: 95 Brake Fluid Flushing (John Row)
John
What about bleeding the system with a vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the bleeder screws method, is there anything special I need to know or need to do besides starting with the right rear first, and then working it to the closest to the reservoir which would be the drivers side last? Is there anything I have to with the ABS unit at all or can I just ignore that and go about just bleeding from the screws and fill the reservoir as I go? Let me know if I need to do anything other than that.
Thanks
What about bleeding the system with a vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the bleeder screws method, is there anything special I need to know or need to do besides starting with the right rear first, and then working it to the closest to the reservoir which would be the drivers side last? Is there anything I have to with the ABS unit at all or can I just ignore that and go about just bleeding from the screws and fill the reservoir as I go? Let me know if I need to do anything other than that.
Thanks
Pro
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 650
Likes: 0
From: Flushing NY
Re: 95 Brake Fluid Flushing (z06dailydriver)
I was at the shop the other day and seen my mechanic with a new gadget that attaches to the compressor what it does is pressurize the sys and vacuum empties out the old stuff and at the same time doing a leakdown on the sys itself he said this is the newest way to completely changeout the old fluids antifreeze brake fluid etc
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 1
From: Fishkill NY
Re: 95 Brake Fluid Flushing (ROADRACER_)
Here is what I do.. If you have an air compressor, you can make setup that will attach to the master cyl and all you have to do is go to each wheel and open the valve untill clean fluid comes out. I have used the hand pump as well and it works. You just have to keep pumping, closing the valve, filling the master cyl...
If you get a piece of alum the size of the master cyl, drill two holes in it that will be over each cyl.. Set these up with fittings that you can screw a hose onto (and plug the other). Now setup a container that will hold about a quart of fluid out of a piece of pipe. Drill a hole in each end cap, install a fitting on one that will connect to the alum plate you made. Connect the other (from the top) to the air compressor with a fitting. Make sure you hang it so the fluid can feed down. Adjust the air compressor to be at about 20 to 30 lbs of pressure. Then bleed away!! The hardest part is making the system but, its a great setup and only cost about $30.. :cheers:
By the way, I forgot one thing..... The alum plate is held on with a vice clamp whci I had around and you need a piece of rubber about 1/8 thk to seal it with the master cyl.
Boy, did I make this long or what!! :lol:
[Modified by 1991C4, 11:50 PM 12/14/2001]
If you get a piece of alum the size of the master cyl, drill two holes in it that will be over each cyl.. Set these up with fittings that you can screw a hose onto (and plug the other). Now setup a container that will hold about a quart of fluid out of a piece of pipe. Drill a hole in each end cap, install a fitting on one that will connect to the alum plate you made. Connect the other (from the top) to the air compressor with a fitting. Make sure you hang it so the fluid can feed down. Adjust the air compressor to be at about 20 to 30 lbs of pressure. Then bleed away!! The hardest part is making the system but, its a great setup and only cost about $30.. :cheers:
By the way, I forgot one thing..... The alum plate is held on with a vice clamp whci I had around and you need a piece of rubber about 1/8 thk to seal it with the master cyl.
Boy, did I make this long or what!! :lol:
John
What about bleeding the system with a vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the bleeder screws method, is there anything special I need to know or need to do besides starting with the right rear first, and then working it to the closest to the reservoir which would be the drivers side last? Is there anything I have to with the ABS unit at all or can I just ignore that and go about just bleeding from the screws and fill the reservoir as I go? Let me know if I need to do anything other than that.
Thanks
What about bleeding the system with a vacuum pump sucking the fluid out of the bleeder screws method, is there anything special I need to know or need to do besides starting with the right rear first, and then working it to the closest to the reservoir which would be the drivers side last? Is there anything I have to with the ABS unit at all or can I just ignore that and go about just bleeding from the screws and fill the reservoir as I go? Let me know if I need to do anything other than that.
Thanks
[Modified by 1991C4, 11:50 PM 12/14/2001]
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