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Hey guys, I was hoping for some help with my danna 36 conversion to the danna 44. I have all the parts for the conversion, but there is one thing that i don't know for sure. On the manual drive shaft do I use the weighted yoke that came with it or the yoke from my danna 36 drive shaft. If I'm not mistaking the automatic drive shaft has weights welded on it, but the manual drive shaft does not. Will I need to use the manual yoke in order to avoid the vibration of the shorter drive shaft. Please shed some light on this for me.
Use the yoke from the automatic shaft. If the manual drive shaft is from a ZF6 car you have no choice, it will not fit the automatic output shaft, I'm not sure about the one from a 4x3.
Use the yoke from the automatic shaft. If the manual drive shaft is from a ZF6 car you have no choice, it will not fit the automatic output shaft, I'm not sure about the one from a 4x3.
I used the A4 yoke on my M6 driveshaft for the Dana 44 conversion.
My A4 yoke had a torsional vibration damper ring on it -- not balance weights. The driveshaft has small balance weights on it.
I used the A4 yoke on my M6 driveshaft for the Dana 44 conversion.
My A4 yoke had a torsional vibration damper ring on it -- not balance weights. The driveshaft has small balance weights on it.
Tom Piper
True, and if the yoke is out hit the stupid damper off. Most of them have spun rubber anyhow, and it's a matter of time before it crashes into the tailshaft.
The 700R4 + 4+3 use the same yoke. ZF6 uses a TH400 yoke.
I used the original yoke. Also don't forget to have the driveshaft balanced. Use good spicer U joints as well.
I don't see the need to have it rebalanced. If it left the factory fine, it's still fine. If it's not, buy another one for $50. How much is balancing these days? more than $50 I'm sure.
That may be the case but when I had mine done I asked how much it was out and it was a couple of grams. Not that much weight but enough to cause vibrations at high speeds. It was also a reputable shop that I have (and others) have done business with in the past. Cheap insurance in my book.
i have a 84 carberated i have a shaking problem under normal exceleration thought it could be the torker2 intake but the engine sounds good one of the bolts fell out and the other one broke off at the 4+ 3 tranny driveline support beams put 2 new bolts didnt really overtighten them there were vibration you could feel at rhe seat of your pants then it stoped now car is shaking trough the driveline like hu hu hu hu under normal exceleration it was a new driveshaft when i had it installed in the 90s not a vibration though has anyone heard of this before more u turn up timing the worse it gets