Engine break in technique...
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Dallas TX
Engine break in technique...
I'm sure the builder is going to tell me what he recommends. What do technique do most of you guys follow?
I've been told (not by the builder) that I'll have to change the oil at 200 miles, can't drive at a steady speed for long periods of time (must vary speed), and obviously don't floor it.
I've been told (not by the builder) that I'll have to change the oil at 200 miles, can't drive at a steady speed for long periods of time (must vary speed), and obviously don't floor it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Santa Maria, CA
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
Once I verified all was well and no leaks etc etc, I was advised to give it short bursts of no more than 60 MPH to seat the compression rings. So far so good. How close are you to getting your new motor? Was the stock block salvageable? I lost track of your threads on the re-build :cry .
Team Owner
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From: Athens AL
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Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
one builder told me to slam it when i got it since they test and test and test it before they even put it in the car.
Another said to baby it for 500mi then change oil, then drive easy another 500-1000mi change oil, then run it to death, changing oil religiously for every 2500-3000 miles.
Another said to baby it for 500mi then change oil, then drive easy another 500-1000mi change oil, then run it to death, changing oil religiously for every 2500-3000 miles.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
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From: Dallas TX
Re: Engine break in technique... (vader86)
one builder told me to slam it when i got it since they test and test and test it before they even put it in the car.
Another said to baby it for 500mi then change oil, then drive easy another 500-1000mi change oil, then run it to death, changing oil religiously for every 2500-3000 miles.
Another said to baby it for 500mi then change oil, then drive easy another 500-1000mi change oil, then run it to death, changing oil religiously for every 2500-3000 miles.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Pinellas Florida Misfit
Cruise-In III Veteran
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
when I use to be into building engines, I was told to break them in how I intended to drive them... after the first firing and cam break in... I'd run the car as normal.. full throttle and not even think about it... never had a problem.
Some say to use regular motor oil during the 1st 1000 or so miles... I've followed that myself in my motors with good success. But in the end.. I'd go with what the engine build recommends.
Some say to use regular motor oil during the 1st 1000 or so miles... I've followed that myself in my motors with good success. But in the end.. I'd go with what the engine build recommends.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Enter Post Count Here
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
Here is my schedule:
5-7 minutes with no load on the motor, cycle between idle-2,500 rpms, oil/filter change, inspect oil/filter for normal metal
50 miles at very gentle throttle, rpms below 2,500, oil/filter change, inspect metal to be less than previous
500 miles, medium throttle, use the tranny to slow down, oil/filter change, metal should have stopped
2,000 miles, oil/filter change
5,000 miles, switch to Synthetic
[Modified by NoWorries, 7:28 PM 12/12/2001]
5-7 minutes with no load on the motor, cycle between idle-2,500 rpms, oil/filter change, inspect oil/filter for normal metal
50 miles at very gentle throttle, rpms below 2,500, oil/filter change, inspect metal to be less than previous
500 miles, medium throttle, use the tranny to slow down, oil/filter change, metal should have stopped
2,000 miles, oil/filter change
5,000 miles, switch to Synthetic
[Modified by NoWorries, 7:28 PM 12/12/2001]
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2000
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From: Hillsboro OR
Re: Engine break in technique... (NoWorries)
I have done mine in two stages. Stage one is start up with 30 weight oil. Warm up the engine and put it into 1st gear rev moderately accelerate to 3000 rpm several times. This should seat the rings. Then change the oil and filter look for metal particles. You sould only see very very tiny particles. Stage 2 is to put in 10W-30 dino and run that for about 700 miles. Then go to synthetic. Take it easy until you reach the synthetic oil change.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
Likes: 3
From: Dallas TX
Re: Engine break in technique... (NoWorries)
Here is my schedule:
5-7 minutes with no load on the motor, cycle between idle-2,500 rpms, oil/filter change, inspect oil/filter for normal metal
50 miles at very gentle throttle, rpms below 2,500, oil/filter change, inspect metal to be less than previous
500 miles, medium throttle, use the tranny to slow down, oil/filter change, metal should have stopped
2,000 miles, oil/filter change
5,000 miles, switch to Synthetic
[Modified by NoWorries, 7:28 PM 12/12/2001]
5-7 minutes with no load on the motor, cycle between idle-2,500 rpms, oil/filter change, inspect oil/filter for normal metal
50 miles at very gentle throttle, rpms below 2,500, oil/filter change, inspect metal to be less than previous
500 miles, medium throttle, use the tranny to slow down, oil/filter change, metal should have stopped
2,000 miles, oil/filter change
5,000 miles, switch to Synthetic
[Modified by NoWorries, 7:28 PM 12/12/2001]
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 22,267
Likes: 3
From: Dallas TX
Re: Engine break in technique... (AquaMetallic94LT1)
I have done mine in two stages. Stage one is start up with 30 weight oil. Warm up the engine and put it into 1st gear rev moderately accelerate to 3000 rpm several times. This should seat the rings. Then change the oil and filter look for metal particles. You sould only see very very tiny particles. Stage 2 is to put in 10W-30 dino and run that for about 700 miles. Then go to synthetic. Take it easy until you reach the synthetic oil change.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
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Likes: 3
From: Sachse Texas
Cruise-In I Veteran
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
Run for ~ 10-15 minutes varying RPM with SAE30 Oil. Change oil and filter. Replace with SAE30 oil. Run for the next 500 miles. Change and replace with what you want to normally run.
You have to use SAE30 oil to get the rings to seat properly.
You have to use SAE30 oil to get the rings to seat properly.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Enter Post Count Here
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
Why not use synthetic for the 500 mile + changes? I can understand the 5-7 min, and 50 mile (not enough driving to get it too hot), but with 500 miles I know my engine will be getting around 200+ temps and I don't feel comfortable seeing temp like that with dyno oil, ESPECIALLY considering those pictures of the heads I took for you guys a while back :( .
As for temps, I trust Dino oil to about 240 degrees. Stock Corvette's go to 228 all the time on dino oil and hardly ever have head problems. Heck, I got mine to 237 a few times and the heads only need a 0.005 mill.
Until you go to synthetic, just make sure the oil and coolant temps stay down, then after that, pretty much just worry about coolant temps.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 14,165
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Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
I've heard that you can break them in with synthetic as well. I don't know for sure. My friend's Z-28 396 had dino in it, he changed it after initial break in with more dino, after 100 or some miles now he was going to change it again, I think he was going to use synthetic.
The guy who finally got the thing to run said that he didn't really need to baby it that much. He said that he wouldn't go bouncing it off the rev limiter, but there was no need to keep it under 3000rpms. He just said he wouldn't push it much past 5.
Personally I think it's all a matter of personal preference. I think if I build a motor I'll do the dino for break in, dino for 500 or so, then synthetic for 1000, then synthetic on a normal interval. Not because I think dino breaks a motor in better, but because it's far cheaper for no longer than it's gonna be in the motor. I would also drive easy for the first 1500 or so just in case. No sense being silly about it.
The guy who finally got the thing to run said that he didn't really need to baby it that much. He said that he wouldn't go bouncing it off the rev limiter, but there was no need to keep it under 3000rpms. He just said he wouldn't push it much past 5.
Personally I think it's all a matter of personal preference. I think if I build a motor I'll do the dino for break in, dino for 500 or so, then synthetic for 1000, then synthetic on a normal interval. Not because I think dino breaks a motor in better, but because it's far cheaper for no longer than it's gonna be in the motor. I would also drive easy for the first 1500 or so just in case. No sense being silly about it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Sachse Texas
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Re: Engine break in technique... (Nathan Plemons)
My engine builder said you will never seat the rings if you break it in with synthetic. It goes along with what I have always heard too so I'll stick to it.
Curtis, the purpose of the first 10-15 minute run is to clean out as much assembly lube as possible. If your guy installs the motor, make sure he does this step. Also make sure he primes the oil pump before putting the intake on. If he is used to LT1's he will know this though.
Curtis, the purpose of the first 10-15 minute run is to clean out as much assembly lube as possible. If your guy installs the motor, make sure he does this step. Also make sure he primes the oil pump before putting the intake on. If he is used to LT1's he will know this though.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Windermere FL
Re: Engine break in technique... (Glock'94)
Also, make sure you vary your rpms for the first 1500 miles. You don't want to break it in within a specific range like you get with cruise control. Vary your speed and do back road driving instead of highway. :cheers:
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2001
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Re: Engine break in technique... (Nathan Plemons)
Comp Cams told me my warrenty is void if I use synthetic for break in. The tech said that it is literally too slick. God, I need to get "Hooked on Phonics" :(
[Modified by 7xchampcar3, 6:57 PM 12/13/2001]
[Modified by 7xchampcar3, 6:57 PM 12/13/2001]