88 front end issues?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
88 front end issues?
greetings all,
experienced something strange the other day.
(88 c-4 stock. 89,000 miles, etc etc...).less then 1,500 miles on tires and had tires re-balanced 2 months ago.....alighnment almost perfect...
...i had the front end checked out by a shop about 2 months ago and they said the front end was "very tight" and showing next to nothing for wear.
....on sunday i noticed that the front end seemed to shake while holding the wheel tight and relatively straight....the best analogy would be that it somewhat seemed that the tires could have been "vibrating/turning left and right" while the steering wheel is straight.....the car was not pulling or drifting but, like i said that is what it felt like....(no half shaft or drive shaft issues. or rear bearings)...
....all the bushings seem fine and no "groaning" from the pump or rack that i can hear.....i suspect tie rods but, that is contrary to what the shop indicated....i will bring the car back to the shop and have it re-looked at again in the next day or so....
......should it be tie rods, is it a difficult job with an 88?...i have done a 74 and an 81 w/out incident....any ideas?.....thanks..
experienced something strange the other day.
(88 c-4 stock. 89,000 miles, etc etc...).less then 1,500 miles on tires and had tires re-balanced 2 months ago.....alighnment almost perfect...
...i had the front end checked out by a shop about 2 months ago and they said the front end was "very tight" and showing next to nothing for wear.
....on sunday i noticed that the front end seemed to shake while holding the wheel tight and relatively straight....the best analogy would be that it somewhat seemed that the tires could have been "vibrating/turning left and right" while the steering wheel is straight.....the car was not pulling or drifting but, like i said that is what it felt like....(no half shaft or drive shaft issues. or rear bearings)...
....all the bushings seem fine and no "groaning" from the pump or rack that i can hear.....i suspect tie rods but, that is contrary to what the shop indicated....i will bring the car back to the shop and have it re-looked at again in the next day or so....
......should it be tie rods, is it a difficult job with an 88?...i have done a 74 and an 81 w/out incident....any ideas?.....thanks..
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
No,tie rods are not that difficult. Requires an alignment when done, but you knew that. Do you get the vibes on all roads surfaces or specific ones? Thought came to me that you may have some degree of"tracking" in your front wheels.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
I would definetly have the front end checked again but the left/right vibration you describe sounds like it could be a bad belt in one of your front tires and that won't show up on a balancer. Did the vibration start all of a sudden or did you just notice it? Chasing vibrations can be a PIA but your right first make sure all suspension,bushings, joints are tight.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
....thanks for the reply....i was on a relatively smooth surface and had experienced this 1x a few months back also.....i had the tires rotated and didn't get this again until now..the L-R movement (not a vibration) in the steering wheel has me a bit perplexed.....no bent rims on front to warrant this....i have to also check the steering coupler to check it's integrity too....the L-R movement appears to be intermittent as it doesn't appear all the time and very infrequently....guess the car has got to be put in the air this week.......ugh
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
I would definetly have the front end checked again but the left/right vibration you describe sounds like it could be a bad belt in one of your front tires and that won't show up on a balancer. Did the vibration start all of a sudden or did you just notice it? Chasing vibrations can be a PIA but your right first make sure all suspension,bushings, joints are tight.
Last edited by Da Mail Man; Apr 15, 2008 at 08:13 AM. Reason: additional
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
.....thanks for the reply...obviously on the front end check-up and hope to accomplish that before or during w/e.....no bad belt that i can feel (familiar with what that feels like for sure!).......as far as other times i have felt MOVEMENT (not vibration) see above post....no rack leaks or bushings, etc...(will still have to check steering coupler too)....do i have to drop the rack to do the tie rods (inner-outer?).....
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
....thanks for the reply.....i am aware when replacing components in the front end that one needs to get an alignment....are you saying that in order to replace the INNER rods that i have to remove the rack or were yiou refering to "play in the rack - rack should be replaced?".....
...when replacing t-rods, a "normal" fork should do the trick?...what concerns me is that all other cars i have worked on had steel "components" so, i don't want to bend anything.....
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 780
Likes: 0
From: New Port Richey Florida
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...errerid=226373
Check this thread, read all the posts
On my 87 I replaced the inner tie rod with the rack in the car. Remove the outer and the boot from the inner. There is a plastic sleeve over the inner, get it out of the way. There is a flat spot at the end of the inner where it is staked. I took an air cut off tool and ground out the staked area without getting into the shaft behind it. Thread off the old, thread on the new, take a hammer and punch to restake the new and reassemble. Takes about an hour. Sounds worse than it is. You will have to set the toe in and thats it.
Check this thread, read all the posts
On my 87 I replaced the inner tie rod with the rack in the car. Remove the outer and the boot from the inner. There is a plastic sleeve over the inner, get it out of the way. There is a flat spot at the end of the inner where it is staked. I took an air cut off tool and ground out the staked area without getting into the shaft behind it. Thread off the old, thread on the new, take a hammer and punch to restake the new and reassemble. Takes about an hour. Sounds worse than it is. You will have to set the toe in and thats it.
Last edited by rich653; Apr 15, 2008 at 09:18 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,172
Likes: 9
From: '88 TPI L98/HotCam Powell, Ohio
I'm guessing outer tie rods. Jack up the front and put your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock position on the tire. Check for movement by pushing/pulling on the tire. If it's loose then replace the outer tie rods.
While it's up , put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock to check the front bearing by the same method. (I don't think that's your problem but it only takes a second....)
I'll recommend using an actual tie rod removal tool instead of a pickle fork. The aluminum is pretty soft plus you'll tear up the boot w/ a fork. Any auto parts store will have one for 10 bucks or so.
After you are finished, setting toe is pretty easy to do w/ another helper. Measure from the front outside of the tire a couple of inches from the ground w/ a tape measure to the same spot on the other side of the car. (write it down)
Then do the same for the outside rear of the front tires. The difference is the toe. Just set it to zero and you should be fine until you want to spend the money on a good 4 wheel alignment.
While it's up , put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock to check the front bearing by the same method. (I don't think that's your problem but it only takes a second....)
I'll recommend using an actual tie rod removal tool instead of a pickle fork. The aluminum is pretty soft plus you'll tear up the boot w/ a fork. Any auto parts store will have one for 10 bucks or so.
After you are finished, setting toe is pretty easy to do w/ another helper. Measure from the front outside of the tire a couple of inches from the ground w/ a tape measure to the same spot on the other side of the car. (write it down)
Then do the same for the outside rear of the front tires. The difference is the toe. Just set it to zero and you should be fine until you want to spend the money on a good 4 wheel alignment.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
.....thanks for the reply...
I'm guessing outer tie rods. Jack up the front and put your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock position on the tire. Check for movement by pushing/pulling on the tire. If it's loose then replace the outer tie rods.
***haven't had a chance to do this but, will do by w/e.
While it's up , put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock to check the front bearing by the same method. (I don't think that's your problem but it only takes a second....)
***i am aware as to how to ck bearings and when i was at shop observed shop person do same as well as i. however, i was distracted and didn't see or myself do the "t-rod test"... I'll recommend using an actual tie rod removal tool instead of a pickle fork. The aluminum is pretty soft plus you'll tear up the boot w/ a fork. Any auto parts store will have one for 10 bucks or so.***i think i have both in the tool box but, will have to check as it has been a while. also have fork with air tools..
After you are finished, setting toe is pretty easy to do w/ another helper. Measure from the front outside of the tire a couple of inches from the ground w/ a tape measure to the same spot on the other side of the car. (write it down)***i just measure (index) what is already there and start from there...Then do the same for the outside rear of the front tires. The difference is the toe. Just set it to zero and you should be fine until you want to spend the money on a good 4 wheel alignment.***planning on it as standard operating proceedure..
I'm guessing outer tie rods. Jack up the front and put your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock position on the tire. Check for movement by pushing/pulling on the tire. If it's loose then replace the outer tie rods.
***haven't had a chance to do this but, will do by w/e.
While it's up , put your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock to check the front bearing by the same method. (I don't think that's your problem but it only takes a second....)
***i am aware as to how to ck bearings and when i was at shop observed shop person do same as well as i. however, i was distracted and didn't see or myself do the "t-rod test"... I'll recommend using an actual tie rod removal tool instead of a pickle fork. The aluminum is pretty soft plus you'll tear up the boot w/ a fork. Any auto parts store will have one for 10 bucks or so.***i think i have both in the tool box but, will have to check as it has been a while. also have fork with air tools..
After you are finished, setting toe is pretty easy to do w/ another helper. Measure from the front outside of the tire a couple of inches from the ground w/ a tape measure to the same spot on the other side of the car. (write it down)***i just measure (index) what is already there and start from there...Then do the same for the outside rear of the front tires. The difference is the toe. Just set it to zero and you should be fine until you want to spend the money on a good 4 wheel alignment.***planning on it as standard operating proceedure..
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,845
Likes: 30
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...errerid=226373
Check this thread, read all the posts
On my 87 I replaced the inner tie rod with the rack in the car. Remove the outer and the boot from the inner. There is a plastic sleeve over the inner, get it out of the way. There is a flat spot at the end of the inner where it is staked. I took an air cut off tool and ground out the staked area without getting into the shaft behind it. Thread off the old, thread on the new, take a hammer and punch to restake the new and reassemble. Takes about an hour. Sounds worse than it is. You will have to set the toe in and thats it.
Check this thread, read all the posts
On my 87 I replaced the inner tie rod with the rack in the car. Remove the outer and the boot from the inner. There is a plastic sleeve over the inner, get it out of the way. There is a flat spot at the end of the inner where it is staked. I took an air cut off tool and ground out the staked area without getting into the shaft behind it. Thread off the old, thread on the new, take a hammer and punch to restake the new and reassemble. Takes about an hour. Sounds worse than it is. You will have to set the toe in and thats it.